Actually, I could have guessed it. When I answered the usually not at the mouth fallen cab driver at the airport Salzburg to his question, where it goes now: “Once to the hotel Stein Salzburg, please!”, his eyebrows suddenly shot up and it escaped him only one “Oooooh!
The oldest hotel in Salzburg
“Good evening, have a seat, how was your journey?” I have to say, I do love hotels anyway where you have to sit down to check in. Not because I’m that exhausted from a trip – but because it already reveals a lot about the atmosphere of a hotel. Here, there is no anonymous online check-in, extra-fast and efficient, without frills and always the same.
At Hotel Stein you sit down, take a breath, arrive, relax.
I let myself fall into the armchair. On the other side of the reception desk, a young man, friendly, attentive and in the best of moods. His chair seems to be just as comfortable. Or it’s just the ambience in general. I’ve never really been into Feng Shui, but somehow I do believe that there are places where energy flows differently. I wonder if someone here has explicitly dealt with Feng Shui when planning the interior?
The “new” Hotel Stein
It’s quite possible—who knows? After all, the Hotel Stein was recently renovated from top to bottom. The entire renovation took a full two years, during which the city’s oldest hotel was completely closed. You can sense just how much attention to detail went into it in every corner of the building. It probably would have been quicker to just tear down the entire building and rebuild it from scratch. Instead, both the small and large details reveal the rich history the Hotel Stein holds—while skillfully bridging the gap to a modern design.
A hotel – and a Salzburg institution
Some details clearly bear the charm of the 1950s, from the preserved neon sign on the facade to the old “telephone” sign in a corner of the lobby that was meant to indicate the telephone booth for guests. How long ago was it that hotels had phone booths in the lobby instead of in-room phones?
The friendly receptionist wishes me a nice stay, and I am quite confident that his wish will come true. “Wait a minute, I have something else for you.” He ceremoniously slides a gift box across the table for each guest to receive. Contents: a greeting card and two Detox Good Night Smoothies in two versions. One light, one smoothie extra strong. I don’t know, I have the feeling that I definitely won’t need any help falling asleep here in this relaxed hotel, but I still have to smile: I guess they really want to make sure that no one goes home unrelaxed here.
I’m still happy about the smoothies, which are made from purely natural ingredients without additives! However, it should turn out that great importance is attached to high-quality products here, even when it comes to food.
The roof terrace at Hotel Stein: The best view over Salzburg
I spent three nights at the Stein Hotel, and I got out of bed early every day despite a full schedule, just to fully enjoy the pleasant ambience at the breakfast at Seven Senses, the hotel’s own restaurant with a famous rooftop terrace. That means something as I’m not the early bird!
By the way: On my Salzburg blog, you’ll find lots more great tips for a trip to Salzburg.
Homemade & high quality: The breakfast
Breakfast at Seven Senses is a pleasant change from overcrowded hotel buffets that lack charm. The buffet here is small, uncluttered and fits on two or three bar tables at the entrance. Some may find the breakfast meager for this price range – but after two decades of experience with hotel breakfast buffets, I can say: less is more. And more high quality. What good is the most enormous hotel buffet if the scrambled eggs, which have been laid out for hours, aren’t even freshly made? It’s the little things that make a hotel special, and it’s very pleasing to see that here, at breakfast, more emphasis is placed on class than on numbers.
From fresh, homemade banana bread to vegan energy balls, Hotel Stein also caters to every dining preference. Egg dishes as desired (of course in fresh and à la minute!) and a small breakfast platter is available fresh individually at the table. If I hadn’t already been convinced – the selection of Kusmi teas at the latest would have done it. Or the daily changing selection of homemade cakes, cookies and desserts.
Cocktails & Specialties
In the afternoon (or in the morning for those who like to have an early pint), Airone is served here, an Italian bitter similar to Aperol, which is only available in Salzburg at Seven Senses. Tastes good, like Italy and more. But this may also be due to the best hotel terrace view in Salzburg: From here you have the perfect postcard view with the old town, the fortress Hohensalzberg and the Mönchsberg together.
Speaking of Italy: This also plays a major role at Hotel Stein. The motto “Salzburg meets Venice” runs discreetly but consistently through the entire house. Lots of blue, lots of Venetian glassblowing art, lots of Italian design (hello Artemide bedside lamps!) and lots of Mediterranean lightness paired with Salzburg tradition.
Tip: The Seven Senses is of course also open for non-hotel guests. If you’re not staying at a hotel – I would definitely recommend a drink here for a visit to Salzburg. The location is really unique!
Staying at Hotel Stein in Salzburg
I really can’t think of anything that speaks against the Hotel Stein. And I’m really, really critical because of my job. But location, ambience and service really play on a high level here. My stay was very pleasant and therefore also recommendable for those who might feel rather intimidated by so much comfort.
Who will feel at home here:
Couples on a romantic Salzburg trip on the weekend
Design aficionados
Art lovers (in the hotel lobby there is a sculpture by Sir Anish Kapoor hanging in the corner)
Singapore doesn’t always have to be expensive: The gardens surrounding Marina Bay Sands, Singapore’s famous hotel, are free! You can easily spend a few hours here at Gardens by the Bay and unwind from the stress of city life.
The gardens of Singapore
During the day, you can go into the adjacent greenhouses and marvel at the beautiful plants. At night, the famous trees in the Gardens by the Bay are illuminated. When the planted supertrees are really put in the limelight with the Gardens by the Bay light show, the gardens in Singapore are truly impressive. The lightshow is really a unique experience! No wonder many people just look for a quiet place and stare fascinated at the luminous sky.
Marina Bay Sands: The most famous infinity pool in the world
Next door, you will immediately notice this familiar futuristic building. Who doesn’t know the now world-famous postcard view from the infinity pool of the Marina Bay Sands in Singapore?
Opened in 2010, the Marina Bay Sands and the area around it have quickly become Singapore’s new attraction. There was nothing here before. Now a complete recreational resort has been built on the empty lot.
The hotel itself is not only a hotel, but also a shopping center and casino. The luxury shopping center houses brands from Dior to Louis Vuitton to Dolce&Gabbana.
I’m sure before the Marina Bay Sands, no one really knew what the term “infinity pool” meant. Until the first pictures of the pool on the roof of the ship-shaped Marina Bay Sands Hotel in Singapore appeared. After every self-respecting Instagrammer was hanging around the edge of the world’s highest pool, the term “infinity pool” became a household word. By the way, you can only get access as a hotel guest. Smuggling in is pointless. With luck, the cheapest room starts at about 350 euros a night. So that’s already a higher investment. It’s worth checking, the prices vary greatly.
If you don’t want to spend that, you can visit the viewing platform next door, which is open to the public for an entrance fee, and enjoy the view of Singapore without the pool.
Gardens by the Bay: the glowing trees of Singapore
Equally impressive are the Supertrees at night, when the light show kicks in. The show is well attended, but the area is relatively spacious and you don’t step on each other’s feet. Many simply lie down on blankets, jackets or just nothing on the bare floor and watch the lightshow so quite chilled – I’ve also done the same: you just can not get out of the amazement!
When is the light show at Gardens by the Bay?
The show is held twice a day: 19.45h and 20.45h. The OCBC Skyway that connects the various Supertrees at altitude can also be accessed during the light show.
It just had to be a New York sunset. And especially from the Top of the Rock at Rockefeller Center. As I’ve gotten more into photography, my travel habits while on location have changed more and more. When I’m searching for the perfect light, no time of day is too odd for me. Like that time, for example, when I left the hotel at 4:30 a.m.—still in the dark—to catch the perfect sunrise over the Brooklyn Bridge in New York. Sunrises—and sunsets, for that matter—are always amazing anyway!
Especially with a view that’s so fascinating and surreal at the same time, you finally get to see it in person from the Top of the Rock observation deck. I’ve seen this skyline thousands of times—in American TV shows, on posters, in movies, and on Instagram. Every kid knows the Manhattan skyline, and without even thinking, you know right away: That’s New York.
From the Top of the Rock, you have the perfect postcard view of the Empire State Building and southern Manhattan.
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Top of the Rock: The Most Beautiful Sunset in New York
And even if, in the end, it’s just a cluster of towering skyscrapers in an even more massive city, teeming with people and traffic: watching the sunset in New York from the Top of the Rock is one of the most magical moments of my entire travel career.
At Top of the Rock in the evening: Goosebumps at the sight of the Empire State Building.
Sunset over Manhattan: Magical.
By the way: You’ll find lots more tips on my New York blog.
Information & Tickets for Top of the Rock at Rockefeller Center
Top of the Rock is the observation deck at Rockefeller Center. Located on Fifth Avenue, it’s impossible to miss, thanks to the statue of Atlas struggling to hold up his globe.
However, the entrance to Top of the Rock is tucked away on a side street (50th Street) between Fifth and Sixth Avenues. The tickets are time-stamped, which means you can only go up at a predetermined time.
It wasn’t very busy in January, and since I was just passing by by chance, I bought a ticket right away and didn’t have to wait long. During busier months (which, in New York, means pretty much every month except January and February), it’s a good idea to buy tickets in advance.
Please note: Tickets for the sunset viewing are $10 more expensive when purchased on-site or on the Rockefeller Center website! Get Your Guide offers flexible tickets for this event, which you can then exchange for a timed ticket on-site.
At GetYourGuide, there’s actually only one price, but at Top of the Rock itself, there’s an additional sunset surcharge of a full 10 US dollars for late-afternoon time slots (they know why people like to come in the late afternoon).
How much time should you set aside for the Top of the Rock?
Although you’re assigned a time slot, it can still take a while to finally make it to the top. I was down at the ticket counter about an hour before sunset, and it worked out perfectly. So it’s best to plan enough time if you absolutely want to catch the sunset from the very beginning (it’s worth it!). Once you’re up there, though, you can stay as long as you like.
That worked out well for me, because I’d actually only intended to take a quick photo—and in the end, it took me nearly four hours before I could tear myself away from the spectacular view. Seeing the lights of Manhattan twinkling in the darkness after that perfect sunset was just too beautiful. New York at night: indescribable.
If you want to get to know a different side of Singapore, then I can highly recommend a walk through Tiong Bahru. I had already chosen accommodation in Tiong Bahru in advance for part of my trip to Singapore and didn’t regret spending two days a little off the beaten track.
Tiong Bahru in Singapore: a district for insiders
Singapore is a melting pot of diverse cultures. A bit like Hong Kong, only Singapore seemed to me even more diverse, even more crowded in the smallest space. Indians, Chinese, Malays, British, every culture has left something here and created this multicultural place that I still find difficult to categorize. The few days I spent in Singapore were probably not enough, I didn’t just visit the usual sights such as Chinatown and Marina Bay with its Gardens by the Bay, but also more unusual corners such as Tiong Bahru.
Tiong Bahru: residential district in Singapore with history
Strictly speaking, there are no real sights in Tiong Bahru, it’s just too residential for that. But a very special one. Tiong Bahru ist das erste soziale Wohnungsbauprojekt in Singapur und wurde schon in den 1930er Jahren erbaut. Da in Singapur wegen des Platzmangels oft Gebäude abgerissen werden, um neuen, besseren und höheren Wolkenkratzern zu weichen, ist Tiong Bahru heute das älteste Wohnviertel der Stadt.
Formerly a cemetery, then a purely residential area and now one of the trendiest districts in Singapore. Incidentally, social housing has a long tradition in Singapore. I was very surprised, because when you think of Singapore, you usually only think of big banks in tall skyscrapers and spectacular architecture such as the Marina Bay Sands Hotel in the Gardens by the Bay.
Without social housing, many Singaporeans would not be able to afford a home: Singapore has been very far-sighted in the past. The entire Tiong Bahru district with its residential buildings is now a listed building. And rightly so, because the Art Deco-style houses are truly special: rounded shapes characterize the design of the buildings and are reminiscent of Bauhaus or Miami South Beach.
The Tiong Bahru Heritage Trail also leads through Tiong Bahru and tells a little about the history of this special district with information boards. Here you will also pass the Tiong Bahru Air Raid Shelter , the last remaining bunker in Singapore from the Second World War. However, you can only get inside on a guided tour.
The new hipster district in Singapore
In recent years, hipsters have conquered the previously sleepy Tiong Bahru and breathed new life into the district. In any case, I was very surprised at the contrast to the other parts of Singapore that I had visited up to that point.
The atmosphere in Tiong Bahru is simply special. In the evening, for example, you can sit in one of the cozy bars or restaurants in sultry temperatures, half outside under arcades, with the ceiling fan humming peacefully above you. There is also good food or the best cocktails, all in a tropical ambience with lots of green plants and the bright houses all around: Tiong Bahru is a real insider tip.
During the day, we recommend a visit to the Tiong Bahru Market. Recently renovated, it is one of the most popular hawker centers in Singapore. And as you know, you can never go wrong in Singapore if you are looking for good, reasonably priced food.
Hawker centers are food courts in indoor shopping malls. You can find real culinary highlights there. There is even a stall in Singapore that is so good that it even has a Michelin star.
Tips for Tiong Bahru: shopping, cafés and restaurants
Tiong Bahru Bakery One of THE institutions in Tiong Bahru. Bakery with kitchen, for coffee or a snack in between.
Plain Vanilla Bakery Famous for its fantastic cupcakes, located in a small street with some other lovely cafés and stores such as Books Actually.
Café Pandan —Simple atmosphere, but very well-kept and affordable. The Char Siew Rice (Cantonese-style barbecue-marinated pork over rice) is divine. A must-try specialty in Singapore!
Hotel Tip | Tiong Bahru
I stayed at the COO Boutique Hostel* for two nights. Pretty hip, clean rooms, but unfortunately small and cramped – but that’s Singapore. However, I can still highly recommend it, especially if you’re looking for budget-friendly accommodation. The price level in Singapore is very high, especially for accommodation.
Salzburg is not called the Mozart city for nothing. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born in Salzburg in 1756 and spent his childhood here when he was not on tour through Europe. Many places in Salzburg today are still inextricably linked with him and his works. I’ll tell you how and where to find Mozart in Salzburg!
“I’ve actually been asked before if Mozart has anything to do with Italian mozzar-rella cheese!” our Salzburg Guide Peter chatted out of the sewing box, and for a brief moment I thought about why I, too, chose a profession with my flight attendant job that has to do “something with people”: It just NEVER gets boring. “Can you imagine that? Mozart and mozzarella?” Peter wavered between amusement and bewilderment. Mozart, Salzburg and actually everything else about Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart belongs to the standard repertoire of every Salzburg guide.
All Mozart locations in Salzburg at a glance
As a certified Salzburg tour guide, Peter is something of a walking Salzburg encyclopedia. He can think of facts, stories and anecdotes about the city and especially about Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart for almost every corner of Salzburg. I never used to care about guided tours, but I notice how I’m now more and more interested in backgrounds when I travel. In times of Google and Instagram, where you can quickly inhale information in passing, there is hardly any time for substance.
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While I still enjoy reading detailed guidebooks, being shown a place live and in color firsthand by someone who really knows their stuff is much more interesting. On the occasion of Mozart Week, I was in Salzburg: Mozart on every corner, and before I knew it, I was immersed in the world of a musician whose legacy is so universal that everyone knows it. Even if you actually can’t do anything with classical music at all. And that is what makes Mozart so fascinating.
Mozart’s birthplace in the old town of Salzburg
It’s unmistakable. In summer, there are indeed crowds of people around the narrow residential building in Getreidegasse. For many tourists, Mozart’s birthplace is the first port of call in Salzburg. Where Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born in 1756, in his parents’ home, there is now a museum about Mozart’s life that covers the entire house.
The exhibition also shows the history of the entire Mozart family: with his father Leopold (himself also a talented musician) and his sister Nannerl, Mozart toured throughout Europe as a child, spending years on the road. As a paper and writing fetishist, I found the many letters that Mozart exchanged with his family and his wife particularly impressive.
The violin on which Mozart played as a child is also on display. On exceptional occasions, this is awarded to extremely talented children who are allowed to play the violin. Isn’t that incredible? I would have as a child (and if I’m honest, even today) already after three minutes from pure clumsiness various quirks in the good piece hammered.
After the apartment in the Getreidegasse became too small, the Mozart family moved into a more spacious apartment in the Tanzmeisterhaus on Markartplatz.The building was partly destroyed during the Second World War, the preserved half was taken over by the Mozarteum Foundation, while an anonymous 1950s insurance concrete block was placed on the destroyed site. However, it was demolished in 1989 and the Tanzmeisterhaus was completely rebuilt – and now houses an interactive exhibition on Mozart’s life, which perfectly complements the exhibition in the birthplace.
The Mozarteum Foundation itself, dedicated to the preservation of Mozart’s works and legacy, is located very close to the Tanzmeisterhaus. The magnificent Golden Hall and the Vienna Hall host events for all ages, not only during Mozart Week.
Festive: The Golden Hall of the Mozarteum Foundation in Salzburg is one of the main event venues of the Mozart Week Salzburg.
Incidentally, in the garden is the rebuilt Magic Flute House, where Mozart is said to have composed parts of his famous opera “The Magic Flute”. Incidentally, the Mozarteum Foundation is also the organizer of the annual Mozart Week.
Mozart never invented the Mozartkugel, nor did he ever taste it. Nevertheless, the chocolatey balls are known beyond the borders of Salzburg. And usually the first thing that comes to mind are the Mozartkugeln in the red and gold packaging. But in Salzburg there are many more confectioners who make their own version of the Mozartkugel.
First and foremost the confectionery Fürst – because the very first Mozartkugel was invented there! To this day, the Mozartkugeln are handmade there according to the original recipe. The original Mozartkugeln from the confectionery Fürst are only available in Salzburg and nowhere else! The best way to taste the delicious ones is directly in the parent house of the confectionery Fürst in Brodgasse at the Old Market.
Café Tomaselli – Mozart’s Café in Salzburg
Directly across from the Fürst pastry shop is Café Tomaselli, Austria’s oldest coffeehouse. It has been run by the Tomaselli family since 1852, but here, too, its history intersects with Mozart’s: Mozart was a frequent guest at its predecessor, Café Staiger, during his lifetime, and his widow, Constanze, even lived in the same building for a time later on.
Mozart Dinner Concert at the St.Peter Stiftskulinarium
A really nice way to immerse yourself in Mozart’s work is to attend the Mozart Dinner Concert in the Baroque Hall of the St.Peter Stiftskulinarium. It simply doesn’t get more atmospheric than this. At first I thought the Mozart Dinner Concert was an absolute tourist event, with busloads of tour groups being unloaded…. not so! The Mozart Dinner Concert is a truly exceptional event and is also great for a romantic evening for two!
The ambience alone is a dream: the St.Peter Stiftskulinarium is the oldest restaurant in Austria and can look back on 1200 years of history. Insane, isn’t it? And of course, the Mozart family was also a guest here! In the Stiftskeller there is regular restaurant business, upstairs in the Baroque Hall the Mozart Dinner Concert takes place.
At St.Peters Stiftskulinarium you can eat and listen to Mozart at the Mozart Dinner Concert.
Two opera singers and five musicians, Mozart’s most beautiful operas, and a delicious three-course meal to top it off! The warm glow of countless candles creates an especially romantic atmosphere—a fact worth noting because, for fire safety reasons, there is no other concert hall in Salzburg where candlelight is permitted. All in all, the Mozart Dinner was a wonderful surprise, especially thanks to the singers’ close interaction with the audience and the exceptionally attentive and charming service.
Here’s another hidden gem for the Advent season: In the beautiful courtyard of the Stiftskulinarium St. Peter, a small but charming Christmas market takes place during the holiday season, away from the major tourist attractions. It’s very atmospheric!
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Mozart in Salzburg: The video
You can also see how I experienced my day with Mozart in Salzburg in the following video:
There are not many cities that always inspire me anew. My “second home” Palma for example. For me, this city has everything: not too small, not too big, the ocean always a few blocks away and a beautiful old town. No wonder tourists flood the city here in the summer. Most of the time, La Seu Cathedral is the first port of call because it stands out so prominently on the promenade.
Most people then immediately head to the city via the Passeig del Born, but those who are already here should also take the opportunity to explore a little of the picturesque and, above all, often lonely alleys behind the cathedral. In addition to authentic Palma old town flair off the beaten track, you’ll find the Banys Àrabs (Arab Baths) here – with an entrance that blends so well with the surrounding houses that you could easily miss the open door.
Insider tip for Palma: The Banys Àrabs / Arab Baths
Especially in the summer, the Arab Baths are a great place to stop by when you’re exploring Palma’s Old Town. Popular spots like the cathedral or the Plaza Mayor often get so crowded that you find yourself longing for a little peace and quiet.
There, the Arabian Baths are a true oasis, as they are relatively unknown to tourists. It’s hard to believe that this beautiful, green courtyard hideaway is located just a few hundred meters from the bustling tourist flow in the old town! A real insider tip and perfect for those who like to be away from the crowds.
Completely hidden in the old town of Mallorca: The Banys Arabs.
Moorish traces in Mallorca
The two bathhouses from the 10th century give an idea of Mallorca’s long history. At that time, Mallorca was also inhabited by the Moors, who left some Arabic influences. Next to it is a beautifully landscaped patio, with many shady trees and a small cafeteria. Sit down, take a break and enjoy the balmy Mediterranean air!
You can find more Mallorca travel stories with lots of information and insider tips on my Mallorca blog
Information about the Arabic Baths in Palma de Mallorca
Tip: The old town of Palma is also a perfect place to stay! You are right in the middle of the city and everything is in walking distance! If you can do without the beach, or if you want to change locations after a few days of a finca or beach vacation, the old town of Palma is certainly a very nice addition!
Although Porto has been on my travel bucket list for a long time, I still never managed to get there. By now, it was almost a little too late—this former hidden gem in Portugal is more popular than ever and packed with visitors! Anyway, I was still thrilled: Here, I’m sharing my favorite sights in Porto!
I always felt right at home in Lisbon, and it wasn’t much different in Porto. As a Brazilian, the language barrier isn’t really an issue for me, and the Portuguese are so warm and hospitable!
The massive Dom Luís I Bridge is one of Porto’s most impressive landmarks
The Best Way to Explore Porto’s Sights
In general, Porto is a good place to spend a few relaxing days. Porto is the second largest city in Portugal, but you can still reach a lot on foot. The only drawback are the occasionally very steep hills, if you want to walk back to your accommodation after a long day of sightseeing – depending on where you are staying. For this case, you can always resort to public transport, cabs or Uber. All very well priced, like everything else in Porto. Or you can be happy about the extra calf workout.
You get lots of discounts with the Porto Card*—and you can use it to ride all public transportation for free!
#1 Cais de Ribeira
Ribeira is the port district of Porto – and sooner or later you’ll end up here anyway: life happens at the Cais de Ribeira, in the evenings there’s an atmosphere with street musicians, popcorn cars and full bars and restaurants, even in winter. Many of them are tourist traps, but sitting on the quay with a glass of Douro wine and watching the sunset is priceless.
Restaurant tip: At Bacalhau (a little off the beaten path and not quite as touristy), you can enjoy wine along with Portuguese bacalhau dishes given a modern twist. Eating bacalhau (salted cod) is an absolute must in Portugal.
The streets behind the promenade still have a truly quaint atmosphere, and in the dark, narrow alleys, you get that harbor charm for free!
#2 Dom Luís I Bridge
Arguably the most striking of all Porto’s sights: At the end of the Cais de Ribeira, the gigantic Ponte Dom Luís I towers over the Douro River, connecting Porto with Vila Nova de Gaia across the river, which is known for its port wine cellars. Vehicles travel on both the lower and upper levels of the bridge. Pedestrians can also cross the bridge on both levels and enjoy the view of Porto, especially from the top.
#3 Clérigos Tower
One thing in advance, claustrophobically inclined people may not make it all the way to the top of the clock tower of the Igreja dos Clérigos (or Clérigos Church). The climb is very narrow at the end and the viewing platform is more of a narrow walkway around the top of the tower. Fear of contact with strangers is out of place here, otherwise you will neither go forward nor back.
On busy days, access is probably restricted here, but even on quieter days it can quickly get crowded at the top of Torre dos Clérigos. But you will be rewarded with the very best view over Porto: The Torre dos Clérigos is the highest church tower in all of Portugal and one of Porto’s landmarks.
Can a dull train station be a place of interest? Yes, definitely! Especially when inside it is tiled all over with hand-painted azulejos, the typical tiles of Portugal. The white-and-blue artwork stretches from floor to ceiling in the Estação São Bento station concourse, leaving you in awe.
The station itself is a terminal station; trains depart from here to the rest of Portugal and also to the scenic Douro Valley. And if you’re traveling by train anyway and don’t feel like walking far, you can stay right at the station: The Passenger Hostel features ultra-modern accommodations and offers everything from dorms to large, maisonette-style family rooms.
One of the reasons I love Lisbon is its charm from days gone by, when Portugal was still a great seafaring nation and proudly displayed its wealth through its architecture. It’s not much different in Porto: The Palácio da Bolsa, the Stock Exchange Palace, is simply brimming with splendor. This is where major deals used to be struck—and a little cheating went on in those grand halls as well. What looks like ornate wood paneling at first (and even second) glance is, in many halls, simply cheap plaster. You wouldn’t notice it at all. A technique that was also used at Livraria Lello.
The Palácio da Bolsa can only be visited as part of a guided tour. Guided tours are available in Portuguese, Spanish, French, and English.
With the Porto Card*, you’ll get a 25% discount on in-store purchases.
#6 Rua das Flores
The Rua dos Flores (Street of Flowers) is something like the cozier shopping street in the old town of Porto. In contrast to the Avenidas dos Aliados, it is less spectacular and has fewer to no mainstream stores like Rua Santa Catarina, but you can still experience traces of the real Porto here. Small stores with goods for everyday use, traditional cafés and lots of art: even the electricity boxes here are all artistically painted throughout. Unfortunately, a form of gentrification is also setting in here – small, long-established stores like the bookstore further down have to leave Rua dos Flores and with them goes a piece of flair.
#7 Vila Nova de Gaia and Port Wine
On the other side of the Douro, in Vila Nova de Gaia, are the port wineries that have made Porto so famous (or vice versa). Port wine is definitely something you should have tried in Porto! How this works and where to go there, I tested in my port wine self-experiment. i
The Mercado do Bolhão is one of Porto’s most famous markets and is located right in the heart of downtown. The Mercado do Bolhão was recently restored and now shines in new splendor. Here you can stock up on Porto’s signature delicacies: canned sardines in all varieties, bacalhau (salted cod—absolutely delicious—I could have lived on nothing but bacalhau dishes during my time in Porto!), and wine, wine, wine. Alternatively, it’s also worth visiting the Mercado Bom Sucesso, located just outside the city center near the Casa da Música concert hall.
#9 Livraria Lello
Livraria Lello is one of the most beautiful bookstores in Europe and is justifiably hyped. And it’s the first bookstore I’ve paid admission to. Unfortunately, the queues are now almost too long during the summer months, and you can’t really browse through books anymore: books are reduced to a minimum. Read also my article about the Livraria Lello.
#10 Foz do Douro
Porto is located on the sea, I had forgotten even on the spot before loud Douro panorama and old town hills. It takes only 20 to 30 minutes by bus or streetcar from the center to the suburbs of Matosinhos and Foz do Douro, located on the Atlantic coast. I was amazed how different Porto is here – rough sea, wild Atlantic. Total contrast to the tranquil old town.
Foz do Douro is also home to the Pergola da Foz, a formerly grandiose (and now restored) portico right on the promenade – but it’s not much of an attraction. There are a few beach bars right on the beach. Even in winter one or the other bar was open! So I could soak up some sun and enjoy the salty-fresh sea air.
Where to stay in Porto
I stayed at the Porto Republica Hostel & Suites, and I couldn’t have found a better place. In addition to typical hostel beds in shared rooms, there are also cozy private rooms with en suite bathrooms. A room in the old building, with worn old wooden floorboards and a double door leading to the balcony, through which the sun always shone in the mornings—what more could you ask for? The hotel is relatively small and has a family-friendly atmosphere. It wasn’t fully booked during the off-season, though that’s certainly different in the summer. For me, it was the perfect mix of a great location, price, style, and just the right amount of coziness.
Arrival and Departure / Transportation within Porto
Porto is becoming more and more popular, which is also noticeable in the numerous flight connections. Among others, you can get to Porto from Germany with Lufthansa* or Eurowings*.
Within Porto you can get around the city very well by public transport. But even those I have used only little, because much is very good to reach on foot, and one explores cities anyway best walking.
However, there are affordable day passes for public transportation, or you can buy the Porto Card*—it includes many other discounts, such as admission to the Palácio da Bolsa.
No wonder J.K. Rowling is said to have been inspired to write her Harry Potter books in this bookstore! The Livraria Lello in Porto is one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. Even if you are not a book nerd, you will be highly impressed by the intricate interior. Porto itself is already a fascinating city. Still full of history of when Portugal was a majestic country of seafarer, Porto is now one of the new trendy destinations in Europe. It’s welcoming, charming and young – and with its new fame it’s now keeping quite well with the ever-popular Portuguese capital Lisbon.
Livraria Lello: From Harry Potter to worldwide fame
While J.K.Rowling was most likely often able to browse the shelves of the old Livraria Lello alone in her Porto days, today it’s so crowded that you even have to buy a ticket before visiting. You’ve read it right: Livraria Lello is probably the only bookstore ever to charge an admission fee. There was no other way to cope with the crowds of visitors in what is actually a small bookstore! On many days, there is even a queue outside the bookstore because the store’s capacity is exhausted.
The spiral staircase in the middle of the store is the famous centerpiece of Livraria Lello in Porto.Very instagrammable: The Livraria Lello is a highlight in every Instagram feed.
Livraria Lello: One of the Instagram hotspots in Porto
I would have loved to have a look around Livraria Lello with more time, because the selection of books across all genres is absolutely gorgeous . But somehow you don’t feel much like browsing when people are pushing right and left to get the best Instagram photo in that limited space. Especially a place on the stunning red spiral staircase, which goes from the first floor to the second floor in the middle of the store, are highly sought after. But who could blame them? It’s really beautiful.
You can find out more about Portugal in my Portugal blog!
The secret of the Livraria Lello
The entire bookstore is completely paneled in ornately carved wood from top to bottom. At least it seems so. Because in addition to the Harry Potter story, the Livraria Lello also hides a small, not very well-known secret: The wood carvings, such as the imposing ceiling with its many scrolls, are in many places not made of wood at all, but of painted plaster, a technique that was also used in the Palácio da Bolsa in Porto. (Read more about the Palácio da Bolsa in my Porto Guide!)
Not as real as it seems: The interior of Livraria Lello.
Information & Admission Livraria Lello Porto
The entrance fee to Livraria Lello is currently 5€. You need to buy the ticket this next door in the separate ticket store, where you can also get lots of Harry Potter merchandise. Which is actually absolute unnecessary, because Livraria Lello is an amazing location even without all the hype around Harry Potter.
The entrance fee can be offset against a purchase, but often you won’t be able to browse in peace or finding something for exactly €5. If you don’t find anything, you get a small brochure about the history of the bookstore of the Lello brothers for your 5€ at the exit. Well, at least it’s something. 🙂
Harry Potter in Porto
If you are even more interested in Harry Potter, then this small but nice tour is definitely worth a visit.The admission fee is already included. Also great with kids, who will definitely remember their Harry Potter experience for a long time, because Livraria Lello is truly magical.
It should be no secret by now that I’m a book nerd – and in foreign cities I’m usually drawn to bookstores or libraries. Books are just so fascinating. And by books I mean “real” ones made of paper! I couldn’t get used to eBook readers and PDFs until today. There’s nothing like the feel of books on paper, is there?
Here you can find more about another very special bookstore that also fascinated me:
Great places to stay aren’t hard to find in Porto, but I can especially recommend the Porto Republica Hostel & Suites*! Don’t let the word “hostel” in the name put you off: they also have gorgeous double rooms with private bathrooms.
My hotel recommendation for Porto
The Porto Republica is located in a large historic building with high ceilings, herringbone parquet flooring, and a stylish atmosphere. It’s perfect for a city trip if you’re on a tight budget but don’t want to miss out on some eye candy.
Every year on January 27, Salzburg celebrates the birthday of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, the city’s most famous son. And that’s not all: Mozartwoche Salzburg is the festival in Salzburg that is all about Mozart and his life’s work.
It may not sound interesting to everyone, but a breath of fresh air will be blowing through the city during Mozart Week. A visit is also worthwhile for those who have previously shied away from classical music! I spent a whole weekend in Salzburg and followed in Mozart’s footsteps.
Mozartwoche Salzburg: Rolando Villazón and the Mariachis
The central day of Mozart Week Salzburg, which usually lasts a week and a half, is January 27 – Mozart’s birthday. The Mozart Birthplace offers free admission all day for birthday children and many other places also celebrate birthdays. This year, Rolando Villazón, the Mexican tenor and now also director, is the artistic director of the Mozart Week – and he is bringing almost revolutionary ideas to the Mozart Week!
There’s no other way to put it, because on January 27, I suddenly found myself at a spontaneous open-air concert in the streets of Salzburg’s old town: together with the Mariachis Negros, the master himself, Rolando Villazón, sang Mexican serenatas in honor of the birthday boy. Unusual. Highly off the beaten track. And pure goosebumps.
In addition to the classical concert events, there are also numerous events this year that address the theme of Mozart in Salzburg in a very special way – from a poetry slam with musical accompaniment to a ballet gala across all dance genres from classical ballet to breakdance. I couldn’t see everything, the time was far too short for that!
There are events every day during Mozart Week Salzburg: in the morning, at lunchtime and in the evening. Even the Oval, a location within the region’s largest shopping center, hosts a daily event. Unusual: The shadow theater Mozart’s Amazing Shadows tells Mozart’s life from the perspective of a mouse. So it’s also something for children – and very entertaining!
Concerts at the Mozarteum Foundation Salzburg
The Mozart Week Salzburg is organized annually by the Mozarteum Foundation, which is dedicated to preserving Mozart’s work and his traces in Salzburg. Many concerts therefore also take place in the Mozarteum Foundation itself. And to experience a concert in the gilded Great Hall is truly impressive – even if the average age of the audience at the matinee events drops dramatically, even if you are only halfway young.
Many concerts take place in the large hall of the Mozarteum Foundation during the Mozart Week in Salzburg.
Prices & Tickets Mozartwoche Salzburg
As you can imagine, tickets for Mozartwoche Salzburg events are not exactly cheap. However, if you book in good time, you can still get one of the rear seats, which are more affordable. Students up to 26 receive an additional discount. And the events, which are also aimed at a younger audience, are also cheaper, so that everyone can create their own personal Mozart Week.
I am the perfect tourist. Well, from a purely economic point of view. I visit the most overcrowded and stupid tourist traps. As long as they are among the top 10 must-see sights. Whatever the cost. Going to one place and skipping the most important spots – where would we end up? Ballooning in Mexico? (It was really unique!) For a mere forty dollars to the Rockefeller Center in New York? (Dream. Best sunset ever.) Whatever. You only live once. And who knows when you’ll ever come back? That’s why I always let myself be talked into it, even when common sense (or my wallet) tells me it’s not worth it.
I also suffer from acute FOMO: Fear of missing out, the perpetual fear of missing something. I always open the top 10 pages of the travel guide first, and then I more or less plan to make sure I catch everything. After all, I want to have seen the most important things.
Barcelona as the perfect city trip?
That was also the plan for Barcelona. I actually know it well, but it had been so long since my last visit that it was time for a full sightseeing tour again. In my memory, Barcelona was this energetic city full of lightness, sunshine, joie de vivre and the best pickpockets in Europe (I still remember a tearful visit to a police station that was bursting at the seams with other victims). Barcelona is also easy to get to for a few days and relatively cheap. Thought.
Barcelona’s most famous landmark (and permanent construction site): The Sagrada Familia
How your own memory can deceive you: Even in the gray cold of January, Barcelona is far too crowded at the tourist highlights for there to be any joy. And at prices that even scare me as an unshakeable tourist trap invader. I would have loved to see the Sagrada Familia again from the inside, Gaudi’s eternal construction site (and here in Berlin everyone laughs about the capital’s airport – just look at Barcelona, it took over 130 years to build!) The city’s landmark. A cathedral unlike anything else that has gone before. An architectural work of art. The plan: climb one of the towers at sunset and see Barcelona in the soft light of the evening sun.
The only problem is if you don’t buy your ticket in time for the coveted sunset phase, only the stupidest times are left – and then in the end you don’t have the scruples to fork out 32 euros for entry to a church, especially at a time you can’t do anything with. I mean: 32 euros – hello? Without me. That’s right. Because enough is enough. And you have to say no sometimes. Even if the top 10 list remains incomplete.
Tips for the Sagrada Familia
Be sure to buy tickets online in advance for the desired time. Even in the low season!
Good times are in the morning (it’s said to be less busy) and in the afternoon/evening at dusk. The soft light makes the interior glow and photographers love the mega view of Barcelona from the towers.
When you buy your ticket, you are asked which of the two open towers you would like to go up!
Tower on the Nativity façade – This side of the cathedral was designed during Gaudí’s lifetime. And you can walk on the upper bridge between the towers.
Tower on the Passion façade – This tower is higher and offers an unobstructed view of the city. This side of the cathedral was only built after Gaudí’s death. For the most part, however, this tower is considered to be the “better” one.
If you only want to visit the cathedral, you can also buy a one-way ticket without going up the tower for 15 euros.
Brasília is probably one of the most extraordinary capital cities in the world. I’ll show you which sights make Brasília so special and which highlights you should see on a trip there! And at the end there’s a little bit of Brasília’s history: how Brasília was built and when Brasília became the capital of Brazil!
The main attractions in Brasília
Planned on the drawing board by Oscar Niemeyer and Lúcio Costa in the 1950s, Brasília’s architecture is still unique today. The first time you drive through the center of Brasília, called Plano Piloto, you will notice the unusual urban planning with its long streets and perfectly divided blocks of houses. Don’t miss out on these sights:
#1 Catedral Metropolitana
The Catedral Metropolitana is quite small for a cathedral. At the same time, it is the perfect starting point for sightseeing and a good first impression of how architecture works here in Brasília. Lots of white, many clear lines and despite its age (Brasilia and thus all the buildings from the founding phase are almost 60 years old) still hypermodern.
Speaking of white: everything seems even whiter in Brasilia than anywhere else – the sun shines brighter, it always seems that way to me. The city is situated at an altitude of 1200m on a plateau and with so many sunny days, dark sunglasses are a good constant companion. Otherwise you almost become a little snow-blind. Only without snow, at an average temperature of 28 degrees.
Brasilia Cathedral is one of the city’s landmarks.
The entrance to the cathedral is hidden, with an underground staircase leading inside. And then, through the colorful glass mosaic windows, which seemed so inconspicuous from the outside, the full splendor of the cathedral unfolds. The acoustics in the church are also special: if you stand very close to the round wall as a couple, you can even hear quiet whispers, even if the other person is standing on the other side!
#2 Esplanada dos Ministerios & Praca dos Tres Poderes
The Esplanada dos Ministérios is home to all the country’s ministries and ends with the Praca dos Tres Poderes, where the most important government buildings are located. All the politics of the huge country of Brazil in one place – and nothing else. No stores, no restaurants, no cafés. This is the Brasília concept: everything is neatly arranged according to purpose, with the most important buildings of a capital city right in the middle.
Big decisions are made here: Brazil’s Senate and Parliament sit in the Congresso Nacional.
It’s worth taking a look at the map of Brasília: The Plano Piloto, the center of Brasília, looks like an airplane. The wings contain residential areas, while the fuselage houses government buildings and economic sectors such as hotels and banks. Arranged in order of importance: At the front of the cockpit, the Congresso Nacional (Congress consisting of the Senate and the House of Representatives), the Palácio da Alvorada (seat of the President) and the Supremo Tribunal Federal (Supreme Court) meet at the Praca dos Tres Poderes (Square of the Three Powers). All three powers gathered in one place. Very well thought out!
The development plan of Brasília: Looks like an airplane from above.
The Palácio da Alvorada, the seat of the Brazilian president, is not open to the public. What is interesting, however, is the built-in platform that protrudes from the palace and is specially designed for speeches to the people. The palace is guarded by the Dragões da Independência, a special unit of the Brazilian military, and with a bit of luck you can still observe a changing of the guard.
Seat of the president: The Palácio da Alvorada on the Praça dos Três Poderes.
Directly opposite the Palácio da Alvorada is the Supremo Tribunal Federal, the supreme court. The Praca dos Três Poderes is also a good example of the architectural concept: lots of space, straight lines and plenty of light. What you should definitely visit: the Museo Histórico de Brasília and the Panteao da Patria. Admission to both buildings is free and both provide very interesting insights into the history of Brazil. Tip: On the first Sunday of every month, the flag is ceremoniously changed on the huge flagpole with much fanfare, an event that many Brazilians also use as a family outing.
#3 Torre de TV / TV tower
From the Brasília TV tower you have the best view over the Esplanada and the entire Plano Piloto – and the best thing is: the view is free. Around the TV tower is the Feira da Torre, a permanent market with arts and crafts and street food. Since Brasília’s history has always made it a melting pot of all regions of Brazil, you can traditionally find the most exotic specialties from all over the country here, from tacacá from Pará to empadas from Goiás. The Feira da Torre is open every day, but on Sundays there are more stalls in addition to the regular ones and then it’s a funfair atmosphere!
#4 Memorial JK
JK (pronounced dschotta-kaa) is something you come across again and again in Brasília: it is the initials of the Brazilian president who got the long-dreamed-of Brasília project rolling in the first place. Unusually for a politician in Brazil, he is still revered like no other, especially in Brasília. Originally a doctor, Juscelino Kubitschek was known for being very close to the people and for his integrity – my aunt still talks with glazed eyes full of admiration about the day when she was allowed to meet JK for a brief moment as a young girl. JK brought about an economic boom not only in Brasília, but throughout the country, and lost all his political rights during the subsequent military dictatorship (1964-1984) because he was critical of the military. He died in 1976 in a traffic accident under circumstances that remain unexplained to this day.
After long negotiations and political pressure, the military finally gave in and granted the construction of the Memorial JK as a mausoleum and museum about JK’s life in 1981. The exhibition, which also contains a lot about the fascinating history of Brazil’s origins, is also recommended for non-Brazilians.
#5 Museo Nacional & Biblioteca Nacional
The Museo Nacional Honestino Guimarães and the Biblioteca Nacional de Brasília together form the Complexo Cultural da República João Herculino.
Another example of Brasília’s futuristic architecture: the Museo Nacional in Brasília.
Both buildings were only constructed in 2006 and yet fit seamlessly into the unusual 1960s architecture of Brasília. The Museu Nacional occasionally hosts exhibitions by contemporary artists and admission is free.
#6 Parque da Cidade
Those who have had enough of architecture can relax next door in the Parque da Cidade. Basically, it is no longer a park, but a huge leisure area that can only be crossed by car. Like everything in Brasília, the Parque da Cidade is very extensive, a bit like in the USA: you can’t do anything without a car. Even at weekends it never gets crowded here, although half of Brasília flocks here.
City of motorists: The Parque da Cidade (city park) in Brasilia is so huge that it can be accessed by car.
Helpful information for your stay: tips for your trip to Brasília
Arrival/departure from/to Brasília
If you are making a detour to Brasília as part of a longer trip to Brazil, traveling by plane is a good option. All major Brazilian airlines such as Latam, GOL, Avianca and Azul fly to Brasília. There are remarkably few international flights for a capital city; there are a few direct flights to the USA and neighboring countries such as Paraguay and Chile. As far as safety standards are concerned, I have never had any concerns with any of the airlines mentioned – certainly some things work differently than with European airlines, but I wouldn’t advise against any of them. The in-flight service and seat pitch have been reduced in recent years, but many Europeans are still surprised by the in-flight services offered by airlines that are considered low-cost carriers in Brazil, such as GOL. Tickets can also be purchased at short notice at reasonable prices – provided it is not the peak travel season (Christmas to Carnival or Easter week).
From the Rodoviária in Brasilia, the central bus station, buses travel to all parts of Brazil from Belém to São Paulo.
Although there is a well-developed bus network within Brazil with buses in every conceivable configuration (there are even pure sleeper buses with real beds), the journey can drag on like chewing gum. The roads are not always good and the distances are long. From Sao Paulo alone, it takes a good 20 hours to get to Brasília, and sometimes a day and a half to get up to the northeast. The security aspect should not be ignored: buses are occasionally robbed en route.
Train travel is not an alternative: the rail network in Brazil is virtually non-existent, and there are only a few freight train connections.
Getting around Brasília – public transport or car?
Unfortunately, public transportation within Brasilía is not recommended. Brasília is not a pedestrian-friendly city and public transport is poorly organized. To the delight of the Brazilians, two metro lines were added to the bus network a few years ago, connecting satellite towns such as Samambaia, Guará and Taguatinga with the Plano Piloto. These are not very suitable for visitors. The general rule for public transportation in Brasília is: if you can afford it, take the car because it saves a lot of time.
Wide streets, lots of concrete: Brasilia was designed for motorists. Pedestrians were somehow often forgotten in the planning.
I would recommend renting a car: As far as traffic is concerned, Brasília’s traffic is much more civilized than in other large Brazilian cities due to the size and space on the roads, so that even Europeans can manage there.
It often takes some getting used to the lack of street signs (this has improved somewhat, but not enough, with the hosting of the 2014 World Cup) and the fact that only the larger streets are named.
In residential and commercial districts, only the respective blocks of houses are numbered according to a specific system that varies from district to district or from city to city.
Please note: In Brazil, you used to have to carry an international driving license in addition to your German driving license. This is no longer necessary, a valid German driver’s license (+passport) is now sufficient in Brazil: https://infraestrutura.gov.br/carteira-internacional.html
If you don’t feel confident enough to drive yourself, you can now use Uber as well as regular cabs in Brasília.
Staying overnight in Brasilia
As everything in Brasília is neatly divided into different uses, most of the large hotels are located in the so-called Setor Hoteleiro (hotel sector) near the Esplanada. The majority are bed castles of larger chains without any real atmosphere.
So here are 3 tips for somewhat more unusual accommodation that matches the flair of Brasilia:
Brasilia Palace Hotel Designed by Oscar Niemeyer, the architect of Brasília. It also features the characteristic tile patterns of Athos Bulcao—truly typical of Brasília! Located right on the lake near the Palácio da Alvorada.
Hotel Nacional* Brasília’s first major hotel, opened in 1961, and once hosted all high-ranking state guests. Those days are long gone, but you can still get a feel for the flair of Brasília in those days.
Hotel Diplomat: Another one of the oldest hotels in Brasília—almost a relic. Simple, but very centrally located.
You can find a range of rooms in private accommodation on Airbnb, so look for accommodation in the Asa Norte or Asa Sul districts in typical older residential buildings in Brasília. You can also experience real Brasília flair there.
The retort city Brasilia: history and construction of the Brazilian capital
Brasília is a city planned on the drawing board. Through and through. Not much has changed to this day. Over the years, new so-called satellite cities have sprung up around Brasília proper, the Plano Piloto – but they all follow their own specific urban planning scheme. In 1960, Brasília was inaugurated as the capital after only five years of construction – quite a feat when you consider what had previously stood on this vast land: nothing. Nothing but Cerrado, the Brazilian savannah.
Life was concentrated in cities like Rio and Sao Paulo, with nothing at all happening in the center of Brazil. That should change with Brasília. The architects Lucio Costa and Oscar Niemeyer planned a visionary place right in the geographical center of the country. And to this day, I don’t know of any city that even remotely resembles Brasília. The architecture is unique and the reason why Brasília will always have a special place among all Brazilian cities and probably also among all retort cities in the world. Brasília has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987.
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Are you interested in Brazil even more? You can find more articles about my second home here:
It’s so beautifully called “Vinho do Porto” in Portuguese. And while you’re there, what could be more natural than a port wine tasting in Porto? Port wine is, after all, one of Porto’s oldest export hits and THE city’s signature product. Porto lies on the Douro River, and further east along the Douro lies the Douro Valley. This is where the grapes for this special wine are grown and pressed. In the past, boats known as “rabelos” transported the wine to Porto, to the most beautiful port wine cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia. There, the wines continue to age—for years or even decades, depending on their quality. By the way, today tourists cruise along the Douro on the Rabelos instead of transporting port wine—and I’ve heard it’s really worth seeing.
The younger port wines are stored in large wooden barrels.
Are you planning a trip to Porto? If so, I highly recommend my Porto Travel Guide!
What is port wine?
Actually, I’m not a big fan of port wine. Port wine is one of the sweet wines, they say, but it makes me sick to my stomach because it is so strong and reminds me more of cognac. And wine-wise, I’m generally not an expert. Although I’ve had plenty of opportunities to taste good wines, my wine knowledge doesn’t get beyond a simple “I like it” or “I don’t.” I’m sure they could slip me wine from a tetrapak and sell it as the most expensive wine ever. But I like to get to know new things on my travels, and Porto doesn’t work without port wine!
Kept like a treasure: some vintages are really valuable port wines.
When and how do you drink port?
Traditionally, port is enjoyed as a digestif and paired with a cheese platter or dessert. It is served in tulip-shaped glasses that are slightly smaller than standard red or white wine glasses. Since port has a high alcohol content, only small amounts—typically about 80 to 120 ml— are usually served. However, port is also excellent when served chilled as an aperitif, as an accompaniment during a meal, or as an ingredient in cocktails.
Port wine tasting in Porto: Where to go for a good port wine tasting?
The friendly hotel employee recommended Graham’s Winery to me. Because when you stand on the banks of the Douro and look across to Vila Nova de Gaia, the dilemma becomes clear: one port wine winery follows another. Whether it’s Sandeman, Graham’s, Ferreira, Taylor’s, or Calem—one neon sign competes with another for attention. All the wineries offer guided tours followed by tastings; the Sandeman grounds even feature a hotel or hostel.
Graham’s in Vila Nova de Gaia: At this port wine cellar, you can buy and taste port wine
Guided tour of Graham’s Lodge
The tour of Graham’s winery is offered in different languages and is really informative: after a short film about the production in the Douro Valley, a tour guide leads you through the winery.
Port wine tasting at Graham’s in Porto
Port wine tasting with Tawny and Ruby
By the way, I ended up in the Portuguese-speaking tour with a handful of Brazilians. Which made it all the more amusing, because we Brazilians are communicative by nature and even more so after three glasses of port wine. In summer it must be even more beautiful up here: from the in-house restaurant you have the best view over Porto! Incidentally, I could taste out differences despite my untrained palate: I am more Tawny than Ruby. Further insight: Three port wines – and I’m blue.
Tawny or Ruby? With port wine, there are such differences.
The tour includes three different varieties, but connoisseurs can also go all out and sample the crème de la crème of port wines—provided they have the necessary cash on hand, since the wine tasting alone can cost as much as 200€.
Prior reservation is strongly recommended in high season!
How do you get to Graham’s Lodge in Vila Nova de Gaia?
Vila Nova de Gaia is located on the other side of the Douro River. If you’re staying in downtown Porto, it’s a bit of a trip to get to Graham’s Lodge by public transportation. However, with the Porto Card*, you can use public transportation—including the metro and buses—for free. There are many port wine cellars in Porto, but Graham’s Lodge is particularly beautiful with its impressive view of Porto.
If you don’t feel like looking up addresses and directions, you can also join a walking tour and visit several wineries in a single day:
If you don’t feel like or don’t have time to drive all the way out to Graham’s (I took the bus there and strolled back along the Douro in the evening—but it’s quite a distance), you can also visit the Calem wineries and sample some port there! Calem is also located on the other side of the Douro, but right on the riverbank and near the Ponte Dom Luís I.
