Well, it would be a bit last-minute and pretty spontaneous—but would I maybe, just by chance, be up for a weekend in Tbilisi? Sandra from Tracks and the City didn’t even have to ask. Spontaneous trips? They’re always the best. So then—let’s go find the best sights and tips in Tbilisi.
The best sights in Tbilisi & what to do
It’s not that Georgia has nothing else to offer—quite the opposite! Georgia is kind of the new “it” destination for nature lovers because it’s a great place for hiking and has a certain exotic appeal—it’s not yet on the radar of package tour travelers and is blessed with incredible mountain landscapes.
But Tbilisi as a city break? Does Tbilisi have any sights? Here in Germany, Georgia’s capital is still relatively unknown. Unfairly so. And best of all: Tbilisi is accessible year-round. The flight takes 4 hours, but with a little luck, it’s pretty relaxing—and you’ll land in a destination that’s (still) spared from tourist crowds.
➜ By the way, you can find all the articles about Georgia here
#1 The Old Town of Tbilisi
Wear your most comfortable sneakers and off to the old town! The old town center of Tbilisi is well-kept and well-preserved, and houses many sights such as the clock tower of the Reno Gabriadze Theater, the Sioni Cathedral or the old caravanserai. Here you can also find the best examples of the typical old Tbilisi architecture: the romantic houses with their ornate wooden arcades make you want to move in right away!
#2 Mtatsinda
Tbilisi lies in a valley along the Kura River, so it makes sense to check out the city from one of the surrounding mountains. Mtatsinda is a popular destination, even for locals. You can get up (and down) via a fairly modern cogwheel railway. And at the top, you’ll find the most amazing view of the city, an amusement park with a Ferris wheel (for those who still want to go higher), a petting zoo, and various restaurants at the chic mountain station.
By the way, the petting zoo is a Georgian thing: The Georgians are very fond of animals and next to the petting zoo, between the cotton candy stand and the fairground stalls, there is a stand where two huge St. Bernards can be cuddled for a small fee. Usually, I’m not a big fan of any kind of animal attraction, but these two seemed so relaxed and happy, probably even Peta would have given his blessing. Nice gimmick at night (besides the view) is the TV tower, which changes color almost every minute.
Don’t know anything about Georgia? Here are some helpful tips for your first trip
#3 Orthodox churches
Yes, I know—I’m not really into religion or the church, but in the end I always end up in at least one anyway. Church history is simply part of the picture if you want to explore a country’s culture and history. This is especially true in Georgia, with its deeply religious population and very long church tradition. Georgians have their own version of the Orthodox Church, their own patriarch, and their own customs.
As is customary in Orthodox churches, there are no seats, and services can sometimes last half a day. But that’s okay—churches are often as bustling as a train station: sometimes you step outside for a smoke, then you run into acquaintances, and amid all the comings and goings, a baptism or even a wedding takes place. Even though we were obvious tourists, we were immediately welcomed into the congregation, but we ultimately declined the priest’s offer to present our intercessions to the Lord on our behalf due to the language barrier.
Please note: The dress code is strictly enforced. Women are required to wear head coverings, and in some churches, skirts are even mandatory (in most cases, headscarves and wrap skirts are available to borrow). Photography may be prohibited. The highlight is Sameba Cathedral, which was built as recently as 2004 and towers high above the city.
#4 The magnificent houses from the Wilhelminian period
It’s unbelievable, how many architectural highlights are to discover behind some half-ruined facades. Some houses are inhabited and privately owned, but you can ring the doorbell and ask nicely. Georgians seem reserved toward strangers at first glance, but strangely enough have no problem with a group of tourists strolling through the backyard of their own house with their cameras.
#5 Georgian specialties
Definitely worth to try!
#6 Georgian wine and spirits
Georgians are no strangers to good food and drink: they drink, eat, drink, eat—until the doctor comes. And it’s no wonder: Georgia is the world’s first wine-growing region, and during the Soviet era, it was considered the Mecca of fine cuisine. Georgian cuisine is so incredibly good that it’s impossible to sum it up in this short paragraph: a separate food guide is coming soon. For now, let’s raise a glass of chacha (Georgian brandy)! And there’s good news for vegetarians: Georgian cuisine isn’t actually that meat-heavy—Sandra from Tracks and the City did some special research for her upcoming Veggie Food Guide.
#7 The Georgian alphabet
I, being such a philistine, had no idea that Georgian had its own alphabet. I thought it was just Cyrillic letters or variations thereof. But it actually does have its own alphabet, which—in my opinion—looks absolutely beautiful with all its flourishes and curves. It’s kind of really flowery and a total feast for the eyes.
#8 Stray Dogs and Cats in Tbilisi
It’s immediately obvious: There are plenty of stray dogs and cats roaming the streets of Tbilisi. Before I could feel my heart break, I was assured that all the dogs were registered—and indeed, all the dogs are very well-groomed and appear healthy. And that’s not all. Most of them are so trusting that once they’ve taken you into their doggy hearts, it’s hard to get them to leave you alone. Nowhere are they chased away or mistreated, as one might be accustomed to seeing in other countries. On the contrary: even in front of the Prime Minister’s official residence, dogs are allowed to lounge around and lie completely relaxed in front of the building, right next to the security guards.
#9 The sulfur baths in Abanotubani
The smell of sulfur may be unpleasant at first sniff and remind you of rotten eggs, but that feeling disappears as soon as you see the magnificent baths in Abanotubani, such as the Orbeliani Bath.
Outside, it’s like a scene from *One Thousand and One Nights*; inside, you’ll find private bathing cabins where you can relax alone or with a partner or friends. Massages are also available—and as always, despite the opulence, everything comes at a bargain price. The perfect spot for a little getaway! You can bathe with or without clothes (which Georgians might find a bit strange)—it doesn’t matter, because once you’ve rented the bath, you have it all to yourself! By the way, it’s a good idea to make a reservation on weekends, since the sulfur baths in Abanotubani are very popular even among locals!
#10 Getting to know the Georgians
Our travel guide to Georgia, which I’d grabbed just before departure, was brimming with enthusiasm for Georgian hospitality. While I had already pictured Georgians constantly singing and dancing, always inviting you home and practically forcing you to become part of the family, the reality was sobering. I found the locals to be very reserved, not to mention lacking in a service-oriented mindset. Friendly hellos, “please,” and “thank you” are rather rare, but that’s not meant in a negative way. And if you make an effort, you’ll definitely get a nice burst of positive energy in return.
As with this baker here, who after a small warm up even asked us behind the sales counter, so that we could better film his bakery skills. Then he proudly presented his pastry and finally said goodbye to us with air kisses and a lot of winking.
By the way, the bakery is right across from the History Museum—there’s no sign, so just go down the stairs to the basement.
Tips for your stay in Tbilisi: Treat yourself to a local tour guide!
We probably would have missed out on most of these tips and background information forever if Sandra and I hadn’t had our gem, Irina, with us—she enthusiastically guided us through Tbilisi’s Old Town for almost an entire day, was always on hand as our photographer, and is the reason why there will be several more posts about Tbilisi to come.
The thing is, no one in Tbilisi is really geared toward international visitors yet, which is really great on the one hand, but on the other hand, it can be difficult if you’re interested in more background information. There isn’t that much travel literature about Tbilisi yet. Once you’re there, many interesting sights are labeled only in Georgian, and people don’t always speak English. While that looks nice (see 6.), it’s difficult for non-Georgians. All the better that we had Irina, who was also happy to speak German with us. She actually preferred that to English, since she studied in Germany for a long time.
Irina offers her tours on a very private basis, so to speak; she doesn’t have a website or anything like that—so she’s a real hidden gem! If you’re interested in tours in and around Tbilisi with Irina, feel free to leave a comment below this post, and I’ll put you in touch with her.
Boutique Hotels in Tbilisi
You can find good, affordable accommodations in Tbilisi, and some really great boutique hotels have opened there in recent years. One of them is the Museum Hotel Orbeliani, located in the Orbeliani family’s historic city villa (the Orbelianis, by the way, are also the creators of Orbeliani chocolates, a Tbilisi delicacy that’s hard to find—more on that in the upcoming Food Guide!). The location on the multi-lane main street takes some getting used to, but there are also rooms facing the back—and the hotel’s unique and ultra-stylish decor more than makes up for it.
More cool places to stay in Tbilisi:
Fabrika Tbilisi* – Not only meeting place for digital nomads, but also a great hostel! Private rooms are also available. Cheap. You can find out more about Fabrika in my article here.
Rooms Hotel Tbilisi – A very cool boutique hotel near Tbilisi’s grand Rustaveli Boulevard.
Radisson Blu Iveria – It may be a high-rise with a somewhat generic chain hotel vibe, but it has a rooftop pool with the best view of Tbilisi!
Christmas in Tbilisi: Extra tip for Christmas fans!
Georgia and Christmas? Christmas is celebrated extensively in Georgia, and in Tbilisi many main streets such as Rustaveli Boulevard are beautifully decorated for Christmas. The best thing: If you’re sad that the cozy Christmas season is over, you can get another one right after in Tbilisi: Georgians don’t celebrate Christmas until January 7, and until then, along with New Year’s Eve, it’s the most festive time of the year!
This research trip by Sandra from Tracks and the City and me was supported by the Tourism Development Department of Tbilisi City Hall.
The Pantheon is a domed structure and was the inspiration for several famous buildings, such as the Capitol in Washington. In the middle of the dome there is a big hole as the only source of light – and when it rains, well, it just rains right into the Pantheon. Whereby the floor was designed so that all rainwater simply drains away. Quite fascinating. 
