To be honest, I had imagined the trip to the idyllic Perhentian Islands in Malaysia would be different. The waves were crashing harder and harder against the tiny nutshell of a boat we were sitting in, and by then I was thinking about how much of my camera gear I’d have to say goodbye to if the next wave washed into the boat—or worse, if we all fell out of the boat.
Strangely enough, I wasn’t afraid for my life or of drowning. That might be because I always feel safe in the water, and thanks to years of swimming lessons when I was young, I’m also pretty good at moving around in it (at least one sport that comes easily to me!). Or perhaps because the boat ride from the Perhentian Islands back to the mainland takes only forty minutes and goes through fairly open and well-traveled waters—someone would surely fish us out of the water if all else failed. And with a life jacket (thankfully, we had one) and the water at a comfortable 27 degrees Celsius—just like a bathtub—we could probably stay in the water for quite a while.
The seemingly rough seas weren’t really the problem, but rather the boats—which aren’t really seaworthy—that serve as water taxis or ferry services connecting the Perhentians to the mainland. On a large ferry, you probably wouldn’t have noticed a thing. But those can’t even get close to the Perhentians in the first place. Because there’s no harbor. Paved roads? Nope. Buses? Cars? No. None of that. And so the two Perhentian Islands— Perhentian Besar (the large island) and Perhentian Cecil (the small island)—lie like two lost islands off the coast of East Malaysia.
Perhentian Islands: Malaysia’s Diving Paradise
According to Lonely Planet, the Perhentian Islands are supposed to be the fifth most beautiful diving spot in the world. As a complete diving novice, I had no idea that beforehand. In fact, I’d always been a bit wary of diving. Water itself is my element, sure, but actually diving down there, with just an oxygen tank to breathe, and then there’s the whole pressure thing! Afterward, I can’t handle the pressure difference, I have trouble equalizing the pressure, my ears go haywire, I lose it, my eardrum bursts and won’t heal—and just like that, hello, permanently unfit to fly.
Pretty lame for a flight attendant who really doesn’t feel like retraining at this stage in her life. Okay, maybe I’m being a bit dramatic, but that’s just how I feel about diving. Sometime in the last few years, I gave snorkeling a try on Koh Phangan—and that’s when I thought for the first time, looking at the colorful coral reefs and cute little fish: Maybe diving would be something after all.
But it took another snorkeling trip to the Perhentians to really convince me—I’ll be back, and next time I’ll have more time to dive! Unfortunately, I didn’t take any pictures underwater. But I have the most beautiful ones in my mind, and that’s worth something too: On our snorkeling trip, we saw just about every kind of marine life the reefs right off Perhentian Besar have to offer: brightly colored clownfish, huge and incredibly fast sea turtles, and sharks a meter and a half long.
And since it was the end of the season, there were only three of us on the boat anyway. We didn’t feel like we were intruding on the underwater world; instead, we were simply able to enjoy nature. Unfortunately, the end of the season also means the start of the rainy season, so the weather wasn’t quite as sunny anymore, and our guide assured us that the water—which already seemed as smooth as glass to me—would be even smoother, clearer, and simply amazing during the peak season. I guess I’ll have to go see it for myself after all. Even with the bad weather, the Perhentians were still pretty impressive.
A complete tour of Malaysia is also well worth it!
You can find more travel stories on the Malaysia Blog
Perhentian Kecil or Perhentian Besar? The big island or the small island?
The water taxis serve both islands, and due to limited local capacity, it’s a good idea to book accommodations in advance on the Perhentian Islands—contrary to general travel habits in Southeast Asia. It’s also relatively expensive—Malaysia isn’t exactly a budget paradise like Thailand, but here on the islands, lodging is even a bit pricier. On top of that, you can’t really take care of your own meals—apart from a few small resort-run stands selling chips and crackers, I didn’t see much else. It’s just a remote island, after all.
By the way, I actually had the pleasure of trying out accommodations on both islands. Actually, I was only on Perhentian Besar and spent a day visiting friends on the neighboring island of Perhentian Kecil —and realized that getting around on the water taxis that connect the islands isn’t all that easy toward the end of the season. Or sometimes they don’t run at all because the waves are too high. So I ended up having to spend an unplanned night on the other island—with nothing but my beach bag. But that’s how the best stories happen, isn’t it? Anyway, the impromptu beach party with the locals—along with a few lost tourists like us, who were clearly in the minority by then—made up for it. And a little adventure in paradise never hurts.
Which island should I stay on? Perhentian Besar or Perhentian Kecil?
So here’s my tip: Be sure to check out and book accommodations in advance. Then ask yourself what you’d prefer: peace and quiet, or a family-friendly environment? If so, I recommend staying on Perhentian Besar. Or are you more in the mood for a laid-back hippie vibe and a backpacker atmosphere, with occasional nighttime fire shows on the beach and cheap booze from a makeshift cooler-beach bar? Then go for Perhentian Kecil. By the way, I liked both!
Basically, though, both islands are very quiet; there isn’t much to do besides hitting the beach, snorkeling, and diving —dining out is mostly limited to the resorts’ own restaurants, which are open to the public. And unfortunately, they’re usually not very good, in my opinion. But I was probably just spoiled by the foodie paradise in Georgetown, where I’d been before visiting the Perhentian Islands.
Getting There & Tips
How do you get to the Perhentian Islands?
The famous water taxis take you from the pier in Kuala Besut to the islands. If you’re flying in, like I did, the nearest airport is Kota Bharu, which has direct flights from Kuala Lumpur and Penang.
Find cheap flights to Kota Bharu here*
From there, it’s about an hour’s taxi ride to reach the boat dock. Right by the baggage carousel, there’s a booth where they sell taxi tickets. There are certainly even cheaper options, but you can usually find someone to share a taxi with. Despite the relatively long distance, as far as I recall, it doesn’t cost an arm and a leg. You can often find flights at good prices, even on short notice.
Staying Overnight on the Perhentian Islands
Accommodations are a bit of a challenge on the Perhentian Islands. Malaysia isn’t generally one of the cheapest countries for budget travelers. On the Perhentian Islands, prices are even a bit higher. And accommodations are limited.
It’s best to book hotels on the Perhentians in advance!
Find the best prices here
Especially during peak season—the European summer—it’s a good idea to book your accommodations in advance. Personally, I always find this difficult in Southeast Asia; I rarely book far in advance, but on the Perhentian Islands, the better options can sell out quickly. However, don’t kid yourself—the value for money isn’t great.
I found the dining situation on Perhentian Besar particularly challenging; aside from a small shop at the Perhentian Islands Resort selling just a few bags of chips, I couldn’t find any way to take care of my own meals. So you’re dependent on the resorts’ restaurants around the clock, which, unfortunately, aren’t particularly good. Of course, it is an island, after all, so everything has to be shipped in. The situation seemed a bit better on Perhentian Kecil, though it isn’t quite as quiet and peaceful there as it is on Perhentian Besar.
My Hotel Recommendations for the Perhentian Islands
I stayed at The Barat Perhentian, which has simple cabins near the beach. If you don’t need luxury, you should be satisfied. During my stay on Perhentian Kecil, there was a lot of construction going on at Long Beach, so I spontaneously spent a night at the Rock Garden Resort. It’s really basic, but somehow also very pretty because of its hillside location. However, this is only for you if you don’t mind climbing stairs, since the cabins are on a steep slope. All around are new and nicer resorts. But it seemed to me that there might end up being a bit too much of a good thing in the future.
Best Time to Visit the Perhentian Islands
It’s essential to keep in mind that the tourist season on the Perhentian Islands lasts only from March through October—I was there toward the end of October, and while the trip there was still okay, the return trip by boat was quite a bit more adventurous than described above. Outside of the season, all resorts close, and the monsoon makes conditions unpleasant—so the Perhentians aren’t a year-round paradise.
But if you’re into idyllic beaches and a stunning underwater world and want to really unwind, then I highly recommend a trip to the Perhentian Islands.
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