The Happy Jetlagger

Category: Destinations

Sa Calobra & Torrent de Pareis: Day trip on Mallorca

It is essential to arrive in Sa Calobra before 10 a.m., says every guide book, so that you don’t find yourself in the middle of the big avalanche of coaches. Be sure to go again after 3 pm, otherwise you will experience the same thing back. Sa Calobra and the famous gorge Torrent de Pareis are well visited. All the more so in high summer, when Mallorca is bursting at the seams. Nevertheless, the Torrent de Pareis is always worth a trip during a Mallorca road trip! If you don’t want to drive, save yourself the journey through the Tramuntana and start with a boat trip from Port de Sóller to the bay of Sa Calobra.

In Sa Calobra there are a few restaurants, but relatively expensive and rather tourist traps. But the view is awesome!

Sa Calobra & the Torrent de Pareis: A day trip in Mallorca

On an island like Mallorca, the beach in Sa Calobra Bay isn’t particularly noteworthy: the pebbles make a day at the beach there a bit uncomfortable. But that’s not why people come here! The Torrent de Pareis is a torrential stream that flows right here through a deep gorge from the Tramuntana Mountains into the sea. However, this only happens during the colder and rainier seasons—in the summer, the Torrent de Pareis runs dry. Then you can also hike through the Torrent de Pareis gorge. However, you’ll need good hiking gear and a guide who knows the area well!

Tip: On my Mallorca blog you can find even more travel inspiration for my absolute favorite island!

Torrent de Pareis: Hiking tours and concerts

The spacious area at the end of Torrent de Pareis often hosts concerts in the summer, with shuttle service to Palma. The sound: Bose couldn’t do it better. Without a concert, the Torrent de Pareis is rather inconspicuous. If you arrive without hiking equipment and a local guide, the more exciting part of the gorge (where it gets narrow and steep and bumpy) is impassable. So there you are, standing on heated pebbles, between rocks and what feels like two hundred and fifty busloads of tourists from all over the world, who actually don’t know what they’re supposed to find so great about a parched spot between the mountains.

Tip: If you want to explore Torrent de Pareis, don’t do it without a guide!

Torrent de Pareis also often hosts open-air events.

And yet, it’s spectacular. Not only the gorge Torrent de Pareis, not only Sa Calobra and not even the turquoise blue water in the Cala de Sa Calobra.

Many serpentines and the tie knot of Mallorca

The real adventure is getting there! Coming by car from Inca, you shimmy through various mountain villages, up, down, up, down, and winding through dense forest. Until your foot cramps on the clutch from constantly shifting up and down. Until you get dizzy from the many curves and long for at least twenty meters of dead straight asphalt. Actually, that would be enough excitement, but then the last wild descent begins.

What you need for your Mallorca road trip:
➜ You can find cheap rental cars here!

In hairpin curves it goes up the last hill and then …steeply downhill. In curves, tight, tightest. No guardrails. Slopes into the deep void. No view of what’s waiting around the bend. Nothing? Oncoming traffic? A giant tour bus that fills the entire width of the street?

The view during the drive to Sa Calobra: The Tramuntana Mountains in Mallorca.

Rough and adventurous: the northeast coast of Mallorca.

Sa Calobra: The most winding approach to Mallorca

The serpentine road to Sa Calobra is not fun for every driver. But an adventure it is all the same! And once down in Sa Calobra, the Torrent de Pareis looks a lot more spectacular. You suddenly feel tiny in the face of the huge gorge.

Only something for safe drivers: The serpentines down to the Torrent de Pareis have it in themselves!

No shade, giant pebbles – but the huge rocks on the right and left make the beach of Sa Calobra unique

The winding road above is really the only way to get to Sa Calobra by land. However, if you are not so adventurous, you can take a boat from Soller. Round trip costs 30 euros together.

Without car to Sa Calobra

By Bus

If you don’t dare to go down to Sa Calobra by car, then join a bus tour! There are some operators who include Sa Calobra in really nice day trips and where you get to know many other beautiful corners of the island in just one day.

This tour, for example, also includes a ride on the legendary Red Lightning, the historic wooden train from Palma to Sóller! This ticket alone normally costs 18 euros, so the price of the tour is worth it!

Book here a day trip across the island from Palma via Sóller to Sa Calobra and further*

By boat

There are also some organized boat tours that go to the bay of Sa Calobra from surrounding ports. There you also have the opportunity to see the Torrent de Pareis during a short stay.

➜ Timetable & prices to Sa Calobra from Port de Sóller

From Soller you can take a boat to Sa Calobra.

08/08/2016
Vientiane: The Patuxai Monument

The Patuxai Monument in Vientiane is one of the central landmarks in the capital of Laos. Built in the 1950s and 1960s, it is meant to resemble the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. But if you look closely, you’ll notice Laotian influences—a unique building that you definitely shouldn’t miss while in Vientiane.

For a few kip (really not much), you can walk up the Patuxai Monument—all the way to the top.

Sightseeing in Vientiane: The Patuxai Monument

As you walk up, you can stop on two floors. Souvenir vendors have set up their stalls there, and you can find all kinds of knickknacks.

One floor reminded me very much of old Russian department stores with high ceilings and their saleswomen behind glass counters. One of the few times in Laos where I felt reminded that I was actually in a communist country.

Once you reach the very top, you’ll come to this romantic spiral staircase—isn’t it pretty? And just look at those ornate window grilles!

Laos is for me one of the most beautiful travel countries in Southeast Asia!
Find even more travel inspiration here

View of Vientiane

Some of the busiest main roads in Vientiane lead to the traffic circle around Patuxai Monument. One of the most central transport hubs, in other words. And here is already noticeable: Vientiane is so very different from most Southeast Asian capitals: No traffic collapse, no constant honking – everything very quiet.

Patuxai Monument: Best at sunset

It is most beautiful up here at sunset. No more crowds, and the setting sun bathes everything in a very special light. The architecture is really very unusual, everything is decorated in great detail.

How do you get there?

Patuxai Monument is located just outside the city center. From the old town (where most of the accommodations are located), it takes about 20 minutes by bike. Bikes can be rented everywhere in the old town. Or you can just take a tuktuk.

Here you can see even more great spots in Vientiane: The Most Beautiful Attractions in Vientiane
And if you’re in Laos, you definitely shouldn’t miss this city in particular: All articles about Luang Prabang

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25/07/2016
What to See in Vientiane, Laos

Have you ever heard of Vientiane? Neither had I, really, until I planned my trip to Laos. Probably for good reason: Vientiane is simply less spectacular than other major cities in Southeast Asia, like Bangkok or Hanoi. On the other hand, that’s exactly what makes Vientiane so special: it just feels like a big village.

The skyline of Vientiane: The Don Chan Palace

Vientiane lacks true skyscrapers, which is unusual for an Asian city. The only exception is the Don Chan Palace, a 14-story hotel that stands out as an architectural misfit in this peaceful city. Interestingly, it is also the tallest building in Laos, although it’s hard to imagine given the city’s skyline. No building in Vientiane can surpass the Patuxai Monument, one of the few prominent landmarks in the city.

Vientiane’s must-see attractions

Vientiane is a small city, which makes it easy to get around. Most of the main sights are close to each other, so you can explore at your own pace and see a lot in just a short time. You’ll still have time to relax with a great Laotian coffee at one of the cozy cafés in the Old Town or try different foods at the night market along the river.

You can find more inspiration for your Laos trip here

Patuxai Monument

The Patuxai Monument resembles the Laotian version of the iconic Arc de Triomphe in Paris, though it was only built in the 1960s. When you reach the top, you’ll enjoy the most incredible view of the city, and the monument itself is quite charming with its many intricate details. Visiting in the afternoon is lovely, especially when the weather is clear and the sunlight makes everything glow beautifully. Just remember to arrive early, as the monument closes at 5 p.m., so you don’t miss out on the experience.

That Luang: The Golden Landmark

The huge stupa of That Luang is Laos’s most important religious landmark. It’s big, golden, and truly impressive. Though you can’t get very close, it’s definitely worth seeing. The complex is expansive and features some beautiful temples and buildings. The best way to explore the area is by bike, which you can rent easily anywhere in the city. Biking is a fantastic way to enjoy the whole site comfortably.

That Dam: The Forgotten Stupa

That Dam is a large, old stupa located in the middle of a residential neighborhood, now abandoned. Surrounding the square are a few restaurants, making it a pleasant spot to enjoy a quick break from sightseeing.

How to Get to Vientiane

By Bus

Intercity buses stop at either the northern or southern bus station, both of which are quite far from the city. Afterward, depending on traffic, you’ll need about 45 minutes in a tuk-tuk to reach the city center. Private tourist buses are more convenient; they typically go directly to the Old Town, where most of the city’s hotels are located. City buses operate from and return to the central bus station near Talat Sao, right in the city center.

Heading north, the bus has become less significant since the railway opened; few people now opt for the winding road to Vang Vieng or Luang Prabang. However, for trips south to Thakhek and Pakse, and for long-distance routes to Hanoi or Hue, it remains the primary choice. Schedules and prices are available on 12Go Asia.

By Train

This is the area that has seen the most change since my last visit. Vientiane now features two train stations, each part of a different rail network.

The China-Laos Railway has been operational since December 2021, starting from Vientiane Station in Don Noun, about 15 kilometers northeast of the city center. From there, you can reach Vang Vieng in just over an hour and Luang Prabang in approximately two hours. Previously, the bus journey to these destinations took about eight to ten hours. The northernmost border station is Boten, where once daily, a through train connects directly to Kunming in China. Tickets are in high demand, especially on weekends and holidays, and can be purchased at the station, through the LCR Ticket app, or at various travel agencies. Note that tickets for departures from Laos are only sold within Laos and are not available for advance purchase in China.

Since July 2024, there has also been a direct overnight train from Bangkok. It departs in the evening from Krung Thep Aphiwat Station and arrives in Vientiane the next morning—the trip takes about eleven hours and includes border checks handled directly at the stations—you don’t have to change trains. The train arrives at Khamsavath Station, about seven to nine kilometers southeast of the city center.

A sleeper car typically costs around 30 euros, varying with the class, while a standard seat is much cheaper. Trains operate multiple times daily between Udon Thani or Nong Khai and Khamsavath, making travel especially convenient if you’re catching one of the modern Thai night trains to the border.

Tip: If you’re arriving by train from Bangkok and plan to continue on to Luang Prabang, you’ll need to arrange an additional taxi or bus ride from Khamsavath Station to the China-Laos Railway station. Allow at least an hour for this trip. Also, you cannot book a through ticket.

By plane

The small Wattay Airport (VTE) is located just about three kilometers from the city center; a taxi ride to the Old Town takes ten to fifteen minutes.

Thai Airways and Thai AirAsia fly from Bangkok; Vietnam Airlines and VietJet fly from Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City; and Scoot flies from Singapore to Vientiane. In addition, numerous flights to China are operated by China Eastern, China Southern, and other airlines. Within Laos, Lao Airlines, Lao Skyway, and Lanexang Airways operate flights. There are no direct flights from Europe.

21/07/2016
Luang Prabang: Tips & Highlights

Luang Prabang feels like a charming place frozen in a gentle moment. The relaxed pace of life and the warm, easygoing nature of the people, just like in the rest of Laos, make it truly special. The Old Town is undoubtedly the heart of Luang Prabang—no surprise that most tourist stays are centered here. I’ve put together a list of all the wonderful sights you can enjoy in Luang Prabang. And just to be honest, I have to say: Luang Prabang really left a lasting impression on me.

Temple over temple in Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang is the spiritual heart of Laos. While temple visits are generally worthwhile in Southeast Asia, in Luang Prabang they are an absolute must! Here are some of the most beautiful temples:

Somewhere in the old town of Luang Prabang

Feeling inspired to travel? Discover more about Laos here!
All articles about Laos

Phou Si: The mountain with the breathtaking view

Don’t miss the chance to see the sunset from Phou Si (or Phusi) Mountain—it’s truly unforgettable! The stunning view of the city and river will stay with you forever. To enjoy the best sights, try to arrive early and find a cozy spot to take it all in.

There isn’t much space at the top of the mountain, and it tends to get crowded. It’s important to drink plenty of water in the Asian heat, especially while climbing. Just keep in mind that there are no restrooms at the top, so try not to overdo it with the water.

There are two ways up, one on the Nam Khan side, the other just in front of the National Museum.

The Night Market in Luang Prabang

Every city in Southeast Asia has a night market. In Luang Prabang, the Night Market operates daily from 6pm along Sisavongvang Road, directly opposite the National Museum. Even if you’re not interested in typical tourist attractions, it’s definitely worth taking a closer look here. A few things are really different and the prices are quite reasonable.

Food Drinks

In Luang Prabang, you’ll never go hungry. Around every corner, you’ll discover cozy pubs, cafés, and restaurants offering delicious meals. While the street food scene is limited mostly to a few spots at the Night Market, there are plenty of affordable restaurant options as well, making it easy to enjoy a great meal whenever you like.

Restaurant Tip for Luang Prabang

Och Pop Tok is a small textile manufacturer with great handmade and fair-trade products. If you’d like, you can also take the free shuttle to their small production facility just outside the Old Town. And, by the way, there’s a cozy café near the store:

Where to Stay in Luang Prabang

Compared to the rest of Laos, staying in Luang Prabang tends to be a bit more expensive, especially during special holidays like Lao New Year in April. But I found the prices to be quite reasonable overall. If you’re looking to indulge a little, definitely consider exploring the charming luxury hotels in town. They offer a lovely, unique feel that sets them apart from the big hotel chains—which are less common here, or often come with individually managed accommodations that add to their special charm.

3 Tips for Different Budgets

Basic: View Khem Khoung Guest House —cozy, French owner, helpful and friendly, great location
Mid-range: My Dream Boutique Resort —a charming resort nestled in a tropical garden
Luxury: 3 Nagas Luang Prabang —it’s a hotel chain, but: unique atmosphere, cozy, few rooms, and great deals during the off-season

Tours from Luang Prabang

There’s plenty of nature to discover around Luang Prabang, and three destinations top the list. The Kuang Si Waterfall is the absolute highlight among them—turquoise-blue pools, multiple cascades, and plenty of time to just sit back and take it all in. I’ve written all about it in a separate article: Kuang Si Waterfall: Welcome to Paradise

The Tad Se Waterfall, on the other hand, isn’t really worth visiting during the dry season because there’s simply not enough water flowing—if you’re traveling during this time, you’re better off skipping the trip. Unfortunately, I missed the Pak Ou Caves myself, but they’re said to be very beautiful: two caves on the Mekong, crammed with thousands of Buddha statues that worshippers have placed there over the centuries.

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05/07/2016
Three Dream Beaches in Mallorca
Finding the most beautiful beaches or the most amazing bays in Mallorca isn’t difficult at all. Get into the rental car, open the map or turn on the navigation system – and you will always find a beautiful beach. It’s a big island. With nothing but romantic bays and dream beaches. It’s a good thing that Mallorca is always a safe bet: quick to reach, always sunny, lots of beaches. And actually, everything is a bit like home, only more Spanish.

Book a half-day catamaran tour to dreamy beaches like Es Trenc*

The most beautiful beaches and coves in the south of Mallorca

Mallorca has so many beautiful beaches that it can be hard to decide where to spend the perfect day at the beach on the island. You could easily spend two weeks in Mallorca, visiting a different beach every day, and still not see them all! Here’s a small but excellent selection of the most beautiful beaches:

1. Es Trenc / Ses Covetes

Finest white sand like in the Caribbean. Turquoise blue water so clear that you can watch the fish around you frolicking in the water when you are standing shoulder high in the water. Framed by dunes like on Sylt. Pure nature.

Of course, Es Trenc hasn’t been a hidden gem for a long time now. But it’s still worth a visit, especially if you keep a few things in mind:
- Be sure to come early. From 10am on it gets really crowded.
- Avoid weekends. Because then you have the working local population on top of the tourist crowd.
- Don’t get excited about the prices. In Es Trenc everything is more expensive. Parking. Beach loungers. Bars.
- Don’t forget sunscreen. This is always important, but due to the extremely light sand and the clear water you will get sunburned faster. Which you don’t even notice right away due to the light wind.
Getting to Es Trenc

There are two access routes: Es Trenc/Ses Salines and Es Trenc/Ses Covetes. In Ses Salines, you’ll pass a saltworks run by Germans (tip: stop on the way back, have a coffee on the cozy patio, and buy some salt), then a really narrow gravel road leads after a while to a paid parking lot. There are no other parking options. So don’t waste time looking —just pay for the day pass with a heavy heart and park. And it’s best not to head back before the afternoon — the gravel road back to the main road turns into an adventure when you have to pass oncoming cars.

In Ses Covetes you can park in the village or on a designated parking spot a bit before the village, where a paid shuttle bus takes you to the beach entrance. Both beach sections are phenomenal, but because of the saltworks I would rather recommend Ses Salines.

Click here to get more tips for Mallorca

2. Cala Mondragó / Cala S’Amarrador

Cala S’Amarrador was once named the most beautiful beach in Europe by some website. It’s easy to see why, because Cala S’Amarrador has it all: clear water, fine sand, and pine forests all around. It’s also known as Cala Mondragó, since it’s part of the Mondragó Nature Reserve.

Looking for a place to stay on the island?
Find the best hotels in Mallorca here

3. Cala S’Almunia / Cala Moro

The insider tip for people who like it more adventurous. Cala S’Almunia is reached by descending a steep staircase. The bay itself is very rocky. You can also get into the water only after climbing halfway around the bay. Or you can just jump in from the rocks. There is no sandy beach, you lie on rocks or pebbles at the water entrance. Not for small children or people who don’t like to climb around. If you like, you can go one bay further to Cala Moro. But the water is worth every deprivation! Perfect for snorkelers and adventurers.

Here’s How to Get to the Dream Beaches

All of the beaches are located in southeastern Mallorca, near Santanyí, and are actually best reached by rental car.

Rent a car in Mallorca

Mallorca is a classic destination. It’s always a good choice. And here’s what you absolutely must have on the island: a rental car. Because Mallorca is too beautiful to spend your vacation days just sitting around in one place. No, the real fun comes from hitting the road and exploring on your own. That’s the only way to get a complete sense of Mallorca. Because this island has it all: the sea, mountains, gorgeous sandy beaches, sleepy farming villages, a charming city, secluded countryside, and rocky coves—all on this little patch of land in the Mediterranean.

Tip: Getting a rental car in Mallorca

Want to avoid the hassle of renting a car from budget providers? You won’t find any shady providers here, and excellent support in the event of damage is included!

You can find cheap rental cars in Mallorca here
29/06/2016
Luang Prabang in Laos: The most relaxed city in Southeast Asia

I don’t know what it was. I, who was quite carried away from a 24-hour trip from Berlin to Luang Prabang in northern Laos, or the city itself, still on the ropes from the Buddhist New Year celebrations two weeks earlier. Luang Prabang was so incredibly quiet and calm, sleepy, yet relaxed. I had not expected this calm. And it was hot. Incredibly hot.

Was this something the tranquility of Luang Prabang that I had read and heard so much about before? I have rarely experienced a place that radiates so much relaxation. It felt as if I had landed from busy Berlin straight into another dimension, where there is a completely different concept of time – it didn’t seem important here at all.

On my Laos blog page, you’ll find even more tips for this fascinating travel destination

Luang Prabang: The beginning of a journey through Laos

No rush, no hurry. Just a small, pretty place, in the middle of nowhere, on the peaceful flowing Mekong River. Full of the most beautiful Buddhist temples, at the very end of the world. Luang Prabang was definitely the right place to start a journey through Laos.

I could have easily spent two weeks in Luang Prabang, just relaxing. Unfortunately, I did not have quite so much time, but I swore to myself: Someday I’ll be back, and then I’ll rent one of the great accommodations in Luang Prabang and just do nothing but enjoy.

Click here to discover wonderful places to stay in Luang Prabang

27/06/2016
Hoi An: 8 tips for one of the most beautiful cities in Vietnam

Hoi An is probably the biggest tourist trap in Vietnam. And I still thought it was great, even though I’m rarely enthusiastic about places like this. Hoi An was completely different to what I had seen of Vietnam so far. At first glance, the old town of Hoi An is a mix of crowded tourist stronghold and highly polished attraction that has little to do with the rest of Vietnam.

Beautiful motifs can be found on every corner in the old town of Hoi An.

Having previously sailed through Halong Bay, fought my way through the hustle and bustle of Hanoi and taken a unique tour from Hue on a motorcycle, this stop was something completely different.

Still, I had such relaxing days. So in this article, I’m sharing my best tips and spots in Hoi An with you, along with 8 reasons why you shouldn’t miss Hoi An on your trip to Vietnam!

1. Hoi An: Paradise in Vietnam

You’ll probably follow the usual itinerary on your trip to Vietnam, which means traveling either from north to south or vice versa. Hoi An is located almost exactly in the middle of Vietnam. This makes it the perfect place to spend a few quiet days after a hectic trip through cities like Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City.

If you’ve been traveling in Vietnam for a while, you’ll notice how loud the streets are—and it might get on your nerves. That’s because the Vietnamese love to honk! They honk constantly—when passing other cars, at traffic lights, and when turning. And the streets are full of scooters, which are especially popular in Vietnam.

Hoi An is a welcome exception: Only bicycles and non-motorized rickshaws are allowed in the historic center; cars and scooters are banned. The entire historic center is one big pedestrian zone! This means you can explore the old town on foot at your own leisure, without having to worry about getting run over by the nearest scooter rider.

The old town is quite clear. All the sights in Hoi An are close to each other. You can stroll leisurely through the streets and stop at the pretty cafes and restaurants. Many houses are also open to the public: there are often benches in the courtyards: just sit down and let yourself drift.

2. the history of Hoi An and the historical old town

Hoi An was founded by the Cham in the 4th century—that’s how old the city is! Between the 16th and 19th centuries, the city grew in importance. The port became one of the most important trading ports in the South China Sea until it was replaced by nearby Da Nang. However, the old buildings were preserved, and since Hoi An had completely lost its strategic importance, the old town remained entirely untouched even during the Vietnam War. That’s great for us, because it means Hoi An is now a magical place steeped in history.

Although the old wooden houses in the Old Town have been hit by flooding several times, they are in very good condition. Most have been in the same family for generations, and many of the houses can also be toured from the inside. Most of the houses in Hoi An’s Old Town are actually inhabited, which is something to keep in mind when choosing what to wear. Vietnamese people are not very open-minded: covering your shoulders and knees is always a good and respectful choice when entering a private home.

There are small ticket booths scattered throughout the Old Town where you can buy a 3-day pass. This pass grants you free admission to all attractions in Hoi An.

Looking for accommodation in Hoi An?
Book here at affordable prices

3. food in Hoi An: Vietnamese cuisine at its best!

Hoi An is truly every foodie’s dream! There’s great food around every corner here, no matter your budget. Whether it’s small street snacks or elaborate menus at one of the many upscale restaurants, I haven’t had a single bad meal in Hoi An! Vietnamese cuisine is always very fresh and flavorful, but in Hoi An there are also plenty of innovative cafes and restaurants offering fantastic takes on Vietnamese specialties.

Cooking course in Hoi An

If you want to know how to recreate these dishes at home, just sign up for the right cooking class. Many restaurants also offer these kinds of classes, and they usually include a trip to the market. That way, you can get familiar with the ingredients right away.

Book a cooking class in Hoi An

You’ll find cooking classes in many countries in Southeast Asia. You’ll learn a lot about the exotic ingredients, and recreating the dishes at home won’t be that hard after all.
Here you’ll find a detailed report on my cooking class in Thailand

Restaurant Tips for Hoi An

Green Mango serves delicious fusion cuisine that combines Vietnamese basics with Western elements. Things get a bit more experimental at the Mango Rooms, where unusual combinations meet tropical flair. And if you’re only going to visit one restaurant in Hoi An, make it Morning Glory —that’s where I had the best pork bánh mì I’ve ever had.

But it doesn’t always have to be a restaurant: the street food in Hoi An is delicious everywhere, too!

4. cafés in Hoi An: Ca phe sua da & Co.

As much as I wanted to, I couldn’t bring myself to eat all day. But with temperatures over 35 degrees in the shade, I developed quite a taste for cà phê sữa đá, the typical Vietnamese iced coffee. And there are quite a few cafés in Hoi An. My favorites are Hoi An Roastery and Coco Box.

One of my favorite cafes in Hoi An: Cocobox.

You can find even more travel inspiration for Vietnam here

5. shopping in Hoi An: tailor stores on every corner

Hoi An is famous for its tailor shops. Throughout the old town, you’ll find numerous small workshops where you can have suits and dresses custom-made. I didn’t buy anything there because, once again, I wanted to save weight in my luggage.

What I have heard, though, is that tailors in Hoi An are supposed to be more expensive than in other places—it is, after all, a major tourist destination. Also, I’d take a close look at the quality of the fabrics: I’ve often had the impression that they cut corners there, and nothing is more disappointing than investing money and effort in a beautiful piece that, in the end, looks like it came from a discount store just because of the poor fabric quality.

As for souvenirs, I ended up sticking to tea—it weighs less—and the tea was really great. And if you’re lucky, you can even sample all kinds of different varieties during an authentic Vietnamese tea ceremony.

Popular souvenir from Vietnam: tea in all variations.

6. nightlife in Hoi An: lanterns, street food and balmy nights

Hoi An is truly beautiful in the evening, when colorful lanterns light up the entire Old Town. The streets fill with people, and everyone enjoys the balmy nights with a fresh cocktail or dinner at one of the many fantastic restaurants. If you’d like, you can even buy your own paper lanterns at the night market.

Especially beautiful in the evening: the many stalls with colorful paper lanterns.

The whole of Hoi An is decorated with lanterns.

7. relaxing on the beach – An Bang Beach

Had enough of the Old Town? Right nearby, just a 20-minute bike ride away, is An Bang Beach—and it’s a wonderful place to relax after all that sightseeing. The beach is clean and wide, and the water is warm. And just like in the Old Town, you don’t have to worry about food and drinks: the beach is full of vendors who unobtrusively offer snacks and ice-cold water for a small fee.

8. off to the countryside!

If you’re in the mood for some country air and want to experience a bit of life around Hoi An, you should book one of the many day tours offered throughout the city.

Many tours are done by bike, and in some cases you can also visit the small workshops where, for example, the famous paper lanterns are made. Or you can take the opportunity to pet a few water buffalo!

18/08/2015
The Amazing Night Market in Phuket Old Town

I ended up stranded in Phuket—or rather, Phuket Town—unexpectedly during my trip to Thailand. Phuket is known for its beaches, package tours, and the Thailand you see in travel brochures. But after a long day of traveling and endless arguments with taxi drivers over far too expensive fares, I’d lost all interest in any major adventures. Lucky me!

It’s rare to find something like the Old Town of Phuket in Thailand: a mix of Chinese and Portuguese colonial flair.

I hadn’t actually planned to stay in Phuket, but rather to take the ferry directly to Koh Lanta—though the ferry for that day had already left. So, at the next available opportunity, I ended up near the pier in Phuket Old Town. There I was—right in the middle of Phuket’s wonderful Old Town, which I would never have discovered if everything had gone according to plan. Phuket Town was a surprise and completely different from what I’d heard about Phuket up to that point.

The red lanterns provide the Chinese touch in Phuket town.

Phuket Old Town: A mixture of China and Portugal

Phuket used to be a trading and transshipment hub for both the Chinese and the Portuguese —which is why many buildings in the Old Town still bear the hallmarks of this unusual combination.

Many buildings from that era still stand, and there has been a great deal of modernization and restoration, especially in recent years, which adds greatly to the charm of Phuket Town.

➜ Here you can find even more articles about Thailand

Even on rainy days, Phuket’s Old Town is a worthwhile destination: Many small, quirky cafés and shops invite you to pop in, and the overall atmosphere is young and creative. And the wonderful pastel-colored building facades do the rest, making it impossible to stop gazing and marveling.

Sunday Walking Street Market in Phuket Old Town

I was lucky to end up in Phuket Town on a Sunday, because that’s when the Sunday Walking Street Market takes place, featuring all kinds of street food stalls and the most delicious treats. I just love street food in Thailand!

For me, this is the best chance to try Thai cuisine. You often get small portions, too. That way, you can spend the whole evening strolling through a night market and working your way from one street food stall to the next.

Street Food & Live Music

At the night market in Phuket Town—the Sunday Walking Street Market—there’s not only street food but also plenty of entertainment! So you can simply stroll from stall to stall or just listen to the live music: there’s a small stage set up right in the middle of the market.

I didn’t see that many Western tourists either—actually, there were more Thai people around. So the market seems to be (still) a real hidden gem! The room at Memory at On On turned out to be a total stroke of luck—it was right around the corner! I highly recommend it, especially if you’re just passing through on your way to Koh Lanta, for example, or island-hopping through the Andaman Sea.

Staying at The Memory at On On in Phuket Old Town

Information & Address

The market is held every Sunday from 4:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. on Thalang Road in Phuket Old Town. The name “Lard Yai” means “big market” and comes from the Talat Yai district.

Starting around 3:00 p.m., the entire street is closed to cars, and the vendors begin setting up their stalls. The stalls are set up in the middle of the street, leaving a narrow path on both the left and right for pedestrians. If you come in the afternoon, you can still take your time exploring the charming side streets and shophouses. Things get significantly busier starting around 7 p.m.

You should plan on spending one to two hours exploring the entire length of Thalang Road, plus a detour into the side streets—or even longer if you stop for meals. Most of the shophouses are open as usual during the market.

15/07/2015
Ses Salines: The Salt Pans in Mallorca

When you travel a lot, you develop the most abstruse habits. This also affects my shopping habits. If you’re sitting in the same city for the twenty-third time and have either seen just about everything there is to see or have no desire to see anything at all, you’ll have to fill your day with something else.

Then there are the Swedish cinnamon rolls that have to be brought from the one and only trusted bakery (and only there!) in Stockholm, or the hand-rolled fresh goat cheese ravioli from Mamma Lucia’s pasta shop (and only there!) in Turin, or the summer wardrobe, which is pieced together bit by bit from favorite clothing stores around the world. And in Es Trenc, it always has to be salt!

Salt from Es Trenc: Genuine from Mallorca!

Well, and when I need salt again, I always get it from Mallorca. Decadent, yes, but that’s the way it is. White bread, butter and a little Flor de Sal from Es Trenc crumbled on top – simply delicious!

On my blog you will find many more tips for Mallorca!
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Salt flats in Es Trenc & shopping at Flor de Sal

On the way to Es Trenc Beach are the Flor de Sal d’Es Trenc salt pans and their factory outlet, where I managed to snag a great deal. You can also buy the salt anywhere on the island if you can’t make it all the way to Es Trenc. But this is the only place where you can see the salt flats up close and relax in the cozy courtyard with a great cup of coffee.

Es Trenc: One of the most beautiful beaches of Mallorca

But you definitely shouldn’t miss Es Trenc Beach: It’s one of the most beautiful beaches on the island, and many people even compare it to beaches in the Caribbean! However, you should get there early during peak season, as parking spots nearby are very limited.

In this article you will learn the best way to get to Es Trenc and where to park: Es Trenc Guide

29/06/2015
Villefranche-sur-Mer at the Côte d’Azur: Day Trip from Nice

The Côte d’Azur is undoubtedly one of those places where everything is simply beautiful. It’s no wonder it’s one of the most popular vacation destinations in France. It’s also worth checking out the smaller towns there, such as Villefranche-sur-Mer near Nice.

The perfect day trip from Nice

If you’re feeling a little fed up with Nice, you can spend a relaxing day trip here. Personally, Nice isn’t really my thing either. Somehow, it’s too much of a city, too much street noise, too much glitz, and too many pebbles for a brilliant azure Mediterranean Sea that really deserves a fine sandy beach. But Villefranche-sur-Mer is different.

Find Affordable Accommodations in Villefranche-sur-Mer

Blue like everywhere else on the Côte d’Azur: The Mediterranean Sea in front of Villefranche-sur-mer.

Villefranche-sur-mer: From Nice by train

So whenever I’m in Nice on business, I always think: Just get out of there! Because paradise is just a stone’s throw away. If you’re traveling by car, you’re mobile anyway, but on the Côte d’Azur, it’s even better to take the train.

From the steam locomotive for tourists (that’s still on my to-do list, because it’s a real experience) to the regular regional express, you’ll find many options to travel by train. The TER (a regional express train) covers all the towns on the Côte d’Azur, including picturesque views of the mountains and the sea: get on, get off, enjoy.

Villefranche-sur-Mer is just about a five-minute drive from the Riquier train station and ten minutes from Nice’s main train station. There aren’t really any major sights in Villefranche-sur-Mer—and that’s exactly why I think it’s perfect.

Villefranche-sur-mer at the Côte d’Azur

A sleepy mountain village with winding old town streets, a few cafés and a small bay with the clearest sea water, so turquoise blue it hurts your eyes.

And these colors – house facades in the most beautiful shades, in addition blue sky, the sea, the palm trees… What more do you need?

By chance, I then bursted into the middle of a beginning village festival. Which added up to the laid-back french vibe all around.

In the end, I didn’t want to leave at all—and I would have loved to keep driving in the other direction.

Boat trip to Villefranche-sur-mer and Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat from Nice

If you don’t feel like taking the train and are short on time, you can also visit Villefranche-sur-Mer by boat. There’s a one-hour boat ride from Nice where you can enjoy a beautiful view of the bays of Villefranche-sur-Mer and Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat!

Sightseeing boat from Nice to Villefranche-sur-Mer and back*

How to get to Villefranche-sur-Mer

You can reach Villefranche-sur-Mer from Nice by TER in five to ten minutes. From Nice Riquier, a one-way ticket costs Getting from Nice to Villefranche-sur-Mer is a breeze! You can hop on a TER train that gets you there in just five to ten minutes. If you’re starting from Nice Riquier, a one-way ticket is only 3 euros, and it’s easy to grab one directly from the ticket machine at the station. The Villefranche train station is perfectly located right by the water—so once you step off, you’ll be greeted by stunning views of the bay. For schedules, current prices, and the full route, just check out SNCF Connect.

17/06/2015
The Marble Mountains in Vietnam
The motorcycle trip over the Cloud Pass in Vietnam held many surprises for me. Every few kilometers we stopped. My driver told me a story, showed me the most beautiful views, and dropped me off somewhere for dinner or coffee. Then in Da Nang we suddenly stopped at an elevator that seemed to be in the middle of nowhere. It quickly became apparent that the elevator led high up on the Marble Mountains.

For me, one of the absolute insider tips in Vietnam: The Marble Mountains near Da Nang have really impressed me and were an absolute surprise on the trip!

The Marble Mountains near Da Nang: A real insider tip in Vietnam.

My driver Duc would not go up, but now bought me a ticket for me to go all the way down again. (What can now be summarized in one sentence was a quarter of an hour pantomime show due to his English and my non-existent knowledge of the Vietnamese language).

The Marble Mountains in Da Nang: An absolute surprise!

That’s all I could get out of Duc, so I just drove up. Probably the Marble Mountains were just a barren tourist trap for some marble souvenirs, I thought, and once at the top I immediately looked for the fastest way down. Not so easy – there were no signs, I didn’t even know where I had landed; and many winding paths led to a few temples and Buddha statues – but not down to Duc.

In any case, there were a few tourists around, so this must have actually been some kind of tourist attraction. One of the elderly ladies in front of the temple talked me into buying a few incense sticks, and I briefly enjoyed the silence before continuing my way down the hill.

Check out my Vietnam blog for more interesting travel stories!

Thanks to the lack of signage, I wandered around a bit until a couple of Vietnamese shouted “here, here!” to me between the densely overgrown paths around the temple. So I just follow behind. (Hm. As a solo traveler I should probably work on this naive reflex – strange men call “this way” and I’ll just follow.)

The Marble Mountains in Vietnam: So many caves

The path led behind the temple and grew darker and darker. A few other tourists were also wandering around. My curiosity was piqued. Suddenly, I found myself standing in a cave that was incredibly tall and densely overgrown—and I felt like Indiana Jones. What on earth was this? I glanced briefly into the dark, dim corners of the cave. And there, sure enough, were the most beautiful Buddha statues. Just like that.

Beware of the “tour guides” in the Marble Mountains!

Unfortunately, I couldn’t quite enjoy the moment—one of the “here, here” men had already sensed his chance, ran toward me, and snatched my last few incense sticks, which I had actually wanted to keep as a souvenir. I ran after him, and what at first seemed like an attempted purse snatching was probably meant more as a guided tour of the cave.

“Here, to get lucky, get lucky!” my newly appointed cave guide lit an incense stick, pressed it into my hand, and frantically motioned for me to place it in front of a Buddha statue. “Buddha good, Buddha good!” he shouted shrilly. I didn’t have time to take a closer look, because my tour guide had already lit the next incense stick and was herding me toward the next statue.

We must have put on quite a show: the so-called “tour guide,” who was obviously high on too many stimulants, running manically with me from one dark corner to the next, and me, a naive sheep who was slowly starting to find the situation unsettling but who nevertheless decided to go along with the “tour” for the time being, running after the cave guide—who was on speed and waving my incense sticks behind him.

Gloomy atmosphere: Many of the caves in the Marble Mountains are accessible.

Fortunately, my pack of incense was soon completely torched, the “guided tour” through part of the Marble Mountains was over, and I pressed a few dong into the man’s hand, which he already held out to me as a matter of course. I was really worried whether his tip would be enough… Well, then. I’ve learned something new. So, in the Marble Mountains, you have to watch out for “tour guides” hanging around.

Caves & Altars

The way down, however, turned out to be more relaxed, suddenly huge groups of tourists appeared – I was no longer queasy now – and somehow I had half an orientation. Along the way I discovered one cave after another, large and small, sometimes so small that they could only be reached by climbing and crawling. (I recommend good shoes!) Each cave was an experience in itself!

Practical information for the Marble Mountains
- You have to pay for the elevator, the exact price slipped my mind, but it wasn’t much.
- The Marble Mountains are located centrally in Da Nang, tour operators offer various tours there.
- Be sure to pack sturdy shoes—the descent isn’t suitable for high heels, and the stone steps and caves are often slippery.
- Be wary of so-called tour guides (see above) and of vendors once you leave the mountain. As soon as you’ve climbed the last step, they’ll immediately be hot on your heels, first trying to strike up a friendly conversation and then trying to foist their marble souvenirs on you.
What else to do in Da Nang

If you’re not continuing on to Hoi An like I am, Da Nang is also a great place to stop for a while. Da Nang has a wide sandy beach with a few beach bars—perfect for a day of relaxation. Also, the Golden Bridge in Da Nang opened a while back—it’s a true work of art that you should definitely add to your itinerary. So spending a night in Da Nang is a great way to explore the area at your own pace!

Find affordable accommodations in Da Nang here
13/06/2015
Crossing the Hai Van Pass in Vietnam with an Easy Rider

The Hai Van Pass in Vietnam separates North and South Vietnam. And that’s where I had to go. When I asked at the hotel about the best way to get from Hue to Hoi An, the helpful receptionist advised me to take a motorcycle with a driver. Okay, then just with the motorcycle. If I hadn’t met two English girls in Hanoi on a boat tour through Halong Bay, who had done the same trip in the opposite direction and were totally enthusiastic about it, I probably would have decided against it.

By motorcycle over the Hai Van Pass in Vietnam: An adventure.

On a motorcycle? With 18 kilos of luggage (yes, I travel like a total girl)? The way they drive here? Never. But I couldn’t get the enthusiasm of the two girls out of my head – and I calmed myself down with the thought that they had survived the trip unharmed after all.

Hai Van Pass in Vietnam: Endless serpentines

The temptation was there. The route from Hue to Hoi An is very picturesque because it runs right over the Cloud Pass—a mountain range that cuts through the country like a swath, separating northern and southern Vietnam both geographically and meteorologically.

Alternatively, you can do the route by train, bus or private car. Train I already knew, car was too expensive alone and the bus drives dull and without panoramic view through the tunnel under the mountains.

Rent a motorcycle with driver in Vietnam: Safety & Organization

My concerns about safety proved unfounded. My driver Duc conscientiously lashed my luggage to the luggage rack, wrapped in sturdy plastic to protect it from dust, and drove over the Hai Van Pass with European prudence.

Well, the helmet I brought with me only had a chin strap, and no one knows protective clothing in Vietnam either. As a motorcyclist, you’re on the road differently at home. No matter, at 36 degrees you are anyway glad about every piece less on the body. As Duc told me afterwards, we Germans are probably the most shy about a ride with him or with the motorcycle in general: safety and such. Therefore, I would like to put here especially to your heart: If you are ever in Vietnam before the choice… Just do it!

Have you gotten a taste for it? On the Vietnam Blog, you’ll find lots more travel stories and general tips for a trip to Vietnam!

Hai Van Pass Vietnam: Adventurous switchbacks and breathtaking views

I had only booked the ride. Thought. But I have to admit, I hadn’t asked Duc again beforehand where we were actually going along and how the day was shaping up – communication in English was even worse than with the receptionist, with whom I also only understood the most important key data, so I just let it go. I would already arrive in Hoi An.

From Hue to Hoi An: Impressive landscape on the Hai Van Pass

In fact, the one-way trip to Hoi An via Hai Van Pass turned out to be a total surprise package. Duc stopped with me at the most beautiful places on the way, took photos and joked around, and I tried to piece together info about the country and its people from his scraps of English.

The mega wide beach of Da Nang.

Takeaway of the day: Just letting things happen naturally feels so good! If I’d chosen the supposedly “safe” option of taking the bus, I would have missed out on so many wonderful things. The day was absolutely beautiful and worth every cent!

Details about the motorcycle tour across the Hai Van Pass

The Hue to Hoi An motorcycle tour crosses Hai Van Pass, also called Cloud Pass. The package includes both the driver and motorcycle, allowing you to relax and simply enjoy the scenery.

Plan to spend around six to seven hours on the trip. The driving itself is shorter, but frequent stops in the mountains, Da Nang, and the Marble Mountains make it memorable. Because of these stops, it’s best to leave by 9:30 a.m. at the latest to avoid a rush at the end. Departure times are often flexible.

On a fishing boat used to live(!) whole families – up to 8 or 9 people!

You’ll be picked up right at your hotel in Hue and dropped off at your lodging in Hoi An. The driver will carefully strap your luggage onto the motorcycle, and I was able to secure my heavy backpack on the luggage rack for the entire trip. While I can’t speak to larger suitcases or bulkier bags, I suggest checking with the provider ahead of time. It’s truly incredible how much luggage can fit on a motorcycle like that!

If you still have time, you can add the Imperial Tombs in Hue to the tour for a small extra fee—they’re on the way out of town anyway.

Here you can book a similar tour with an Easy Rider

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Different option instead of a motorcycle

If you’re not keen on riding a motorcycle, consider taking the Panoramic Train instead of the bus for the scenic route over the Hai Van Pass. This allows you to enjoy the beautiful views comfortably while traveling.

Book your ticket here for the ride on the Panoramic Train over the Hai Van Pass

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The train tracks belong to the train that runs from Hanoi down to Ho Chi Minh City – fantastic view included.

05/06/2015

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