The Happy Jetlagger

Category: Italy

Find more great tips for your next trip to Italy by clicking here! Looking for the best sights in Rome? Or tips for Venice? Then you’ve come to the right place. Italian cities can be chaotic. But I will show you the best corners, so that you too will soon fall for the charm of Italy!

Rome | Venice | Naples | Amalfi Coast | Sicily

Pompeii: Of Mummies and Vicious Dogs.
Actually, I had no idea at all about Pompeii. The city on the Gulf of Naples was destroyed in the great eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD. completely buried under rubble and lava ash and rediscovered only in the 18th century. Pompeii is really huge and the excavations are endless. Without a plan, you don’t even know which houses and interesting places to look at first! In this article, I’ll show you which locations in Pompeii you shouldn’t skip!

Tips for Pompeii

Skip the long lines at the ticket counter!
Book your ticket to Pompeii online*

Don’t want to make your way through the ruins on your own?
Book a guided tour of Pompeii here*

Find places to stay here:
Accommodations near Pompeii

Attractions in Pompeii: Must-See from Naples.

I have to admit archaeology is not my biggest area of interest. But I’ve been to Naples numerous times, not once of them to Pompeii, and Naples without Pompeii – that’s almost a travel faux pas. This time it should be different. Besides, we were on a big mother-daughter trip and really wanted to take everything with us. Also Pompeii.

Pompeii: It’s best to have a plan.

“Your best bet is to start in the Roman Seven quadrant, then Roman Eight, and then further back are the mummies,” said the cashier at the entrance, pointing to an itty-bitty portion of the huge map of Pompeii spread out before us. It was already half past three in the afternoon, the search for a parking lot before adventurous and actually every guidebook says: You will need a day to see Pompeii. I can only confirm this now! Not only because of the size, but also because of the overwhelming impressions. We actually only saw the part with the most important excavations, but that is fascinating enough.

Book tickets for Pompeii online*

First of all: Pompeii really impressed me. It is hard to grasp how advanced people were living 2000 years ago. The sheer size of the city, the preserved streets and buildings, are also hard to grasp and one vacillates between disbelief and amazement when imagining Pompeii at that time.
Facts About Pompeii
- In ancient times, Pompeii was a thriving trading city on the Gulf of Naples
- became 79 A.D. completely buried under volcanic ash and rock after an eruption of Vesuvius
- 1,500 years later, the first remains were rediscovered
- It was not until around 1800 that serious archaeological excavations began
- Today, two-thirds of the city’s former area has been excavated
- After the Colosseum in Rome, Pompeii ranks second among the most-visited attractions in all of Italy
The Forum: Marketplace and Heart of the City

This is where the streams of visitors will automatically lead you: The Forum is the center of the city, so to speak. Interesting are also the former granaries on one side of the forum, where today archaeological finds are kept.

Cave Canem in Pompeii: The Dog in the Casa del Poeta Tragico

The house of the tragic poet shows one of the most famous motifs from Pompeii. A filigree floor mosaic in the entrance to the house, warning of the biting dog: Cave Canem (Latin for “Beware of dog”). A similar mosaic from another house can be seen in the Archaeological Museum in Naples. The crowd foreshadows: One of the most popular sights of Pompeii.

The Theater of Pompeii

Actually we wanted to visit the amphitheater at the other end of Pompeii, but our feet didn’t carry us that far. The area is really huge. For that, the Grand Theater is also quite impressive.

The Mummies of Pompeii

No idea why the cashier always talked about mummies. But somehow it also sounds more reverent than the expression “corpses” of Pompeii, which is also sometimes used. In fact, some inhabitants of Pompeii were surprised by the eruption of Vesuvius and were buried on the spot by volcanic ash and rocks. Contrary to popular belief, some of Pompeii’s inhabitants had already fled before the great eruption.

After a strong earthquake in 62 AD. with major damage, Pompeii was still half a construction site anyway and the volcanic eruption announced itself days before. During excavations, cavities were then found within the rock containing human remains and filled with plaster. Human outlines appeared, some of them in the middle of performing activities. The Orto dei Fugaschii (Garden of the Fugitives) contains the largest number of victims found in one place.

I didn’t feel like taking any photos of it. But there are plenty of beautiful sights to take in—I never would have believed beforehand that Pompeii would make such an impression on me.

Are you looking for more travel inspiration for Italy?
➜ Then click here to see all our Italy travel stories!

Best Time to Visit Pompeii

How you can even visit Pompeii in plain summer is a mystery to me. Even during our visit in the cooler month of October, the sun was particularly hot in Pompeii. The location on the hill, many open spaces and the massive stones everywhere quickly heat up the excavation. However, in bad weather and rain, I imagine the ancient roads made of cobblestones can be quite slippery. So we were very lucky with our sunny autumn day and had the best Pompeii weather. In summer, the sun is said to be merciless. The volume of visitors is also a challenge, even during off-season: we struggled to always find the right slot between two tour groups at each house.

Practical Tips for Visiting Pompeii

Tickets for the Pompeii Excavations

Pompeii can be expensive: Admission alone costs €15. However, there are a number of discounts or even free admission for young adults, journalists, teachers, lecturers, students of relevant faculties. Admission is also free for children and teenagers under 18! I thought that was great. Unfortunately, neither of us fell into any of those categories.

Tip: Avoid long lines and buy your ticket in advance! Buy your ticket to Pompeii online*

Audio Guides

Audio guides are available separately, and given the dimensions and historical background, a great thing – if they worked. The audio guides are stored on old smartphones, which supposedly have a battery life of four hours. Alleged. One of the two lasted only half as long with minimal use. At the price of 15€ for two audio guides this was very disappointing. The audio guides for Pompeii are available only at the entrance Porta Marina. For the rest, however, I was so impressed by everything that I had no capacity left to listen to an audio guide anyway. If I had more interest, I would probably still prefer to use a tour guide.

Without a map, you’re practically lost in Pompeii: You can download the official site map of the archaeological site here

What to Wear in Pompeii

You can already guess: sturdy shoes are required. And real solid. Preferably shoes in which you do not slip much. Even though we were wearing comfortable sneakers, our feet ended up hurting. That’s because walking on those huge cobblestones is more uncomfortable than you might think. Thicker soles with some traction come in very handy! Sun protection—such as a hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen—is advisable or even essential, depending on your sensitivity to the sun.

Parking in Pompeii

We finally ended up in a restaurant parking lot that takes 3.50 euros per hour. This was about a 5 minute walk from the Porta Marina entrance. However, I have not seen cheaper alternatives at a comparable distance.

Getting There by Bus and Train

The Circumvesuviana train lines offer a relatively comfortable way to get to Pompeii. If we hadn’t had the rental car with us for the rest of our trip anyway, this would probably have been the better option. The Naples–Sorrento Circumvesuviana line stops at Porta Marina (station: Pompei Villa dei Misteri), while the Circumvesuviana–Poggiomarino line stops at the entrance to Piazza Anfiteatro (station: Pompei Santuario).

From Naples, you can also book all-inclusive packages that include a tour guide and transportation:

Advertising / *affiliate link

Where to Stay in Pompeii

Pompeii is only a 40-minute drive from Naples. If you want to spend the night closer to Pompeii, e.g. because you want to get to the area at 9 a.m. or because you are on the way to Sorrento or the Amalfi Coast, a stop in the neighboring Castellammare di Stabia is a good idea. Accommodation prices are a bit lower here, and yet in this authentic little town you will find a nice beach promenade and a cable car that goes up to Monte Faito.

➜ Our B&B in Castellammare di Stabia (very well-maintained and centrally located)

More tips for Naples:

Naples City Guide: Sights, Tips, and the Best Spots!

The best Margherita pizza in Naples!
16/10/2019
10 Best Things to do in Naples, Italy

Naples is wild and rough, cheerful and fun at the same time. Perhaps it is also due to its proximity to Mount Vesuvius, the still active volcano, that Naples is literally bubbling with life. In this article, I’ll show you the best things to do in Naples, attractions you shouldn’t miss and I’ll give you insider tips for this delightfully chaotic city in Italy.

The best attraction in and around Naples

Not even two hours by plane from Germany, you’ll land in Naples in another world: Naples is perfect for a short city trip! But also the region around the Gulf of Naples has a lot to offer: If you have time, you should definitely visit the Amalfi Coast as well! If possible, be sure to stay longer than just a few days or a weekend in and around Naples! From Naples you can explore the famous Amalfi Coast, impressive islands like Capri or Ischia, ancient Pompeii or Mount Vesuvius!

➜ Find cheap accommodation in Naples here
➜ Excursion to the Amalfi Coast from Naples*
➜ See Pompeii & Vesuvius in one day*

#1 Centro Storico (Old Town)

The Centro Storico, the old town, is where many of the sights in Naples are located. The name “Old Town” is actually misleading – also the rest of the city is quite historic. Because Naples is, to put it mildly, a very rustic city.

Even in tourist areas like the old town, the alleys are still authentically dim and that the garbage all around might be something you should get used to when visiting Naples. Waste disposal is said to be firmly in mafia hands in Naples, and the fact that actual cleaning is not at the top of the government’s to do list is unfortunately noticeable. But it is exactly this patina that makes the charm of Naples!

#2 Spaccanapoli: The main street of Naples

The Spaccanapoli is the heart of Naples. On this shopping street you will experience the real Naples. Corner stores, old-established businesses, touristy souvenir shops or ice cream parlors, here, you’ll find it all. You won’t find Spaccanapoli under this name on most maps, because it actually consists of three streets: Via Maddaloni, Via Benedetto Croce and Via San Biaggio dei Librai.

The Spaccanapoli is the heart of Naples.

Along the Spaccanapoli are also many Naples attractions! In addition, it is always worthwhile to take a look at the small side streets and immerse yourself in real Neapolitan lifestyle. Definitely a good starting point to get to know Naples.

Typical: Laundry is simply dried on the wildest constructions between the houses.

➜ You can find more impressions from Italy in my Italy Blog!

#3 Cappella Sansevero

At the Cappella Sansevero you get a taste of how much history and culture Naples has in store. The Cappella Sansevero is a former private chapel of a rich nobleman, the Prince of Sansevero, converted into a museum. He was a Freemason and an alchemist, so the small chapel looks more like a cabinet of curiosities of that time.

The main attraction is the veiled Christ(Cristo velato), a marble statue laid out in the center of the main room – and crafted deceptively real! In the cellar there are still two anatomical models, which are just as intricate for the 18th century.

The entrance fee of 8 euros for the small chapel is quite expensive (by the way, photos are also prohibited and are immediately prevented by the museum guards!). Therefore, if you are on a tight budget, I would rather recommend a visit to the other museums of Naples if you are in the mood for culture.

#4 Museums in Naples

Other museums worth visiting in Naples:

Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli (MANN)

The Archaeological Museum of Naples is one of the most important museums in all of Italy and one of Naples’ top sights. Here you can find many treasures of antiquity, including from Pompeii. (But since we went to Pompeii later, we didn’t visit the Archaeological Museum this time).

Museo di Capodimonte

The summer residence of the then King of Naples and Sicily now houses the Museo di Capodimonte with a huge collection of paintings from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance. Located a bit out of town, but definitely worth seeing for the surrounding park with views of downtown and Vesuvius.

Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Donnaregina (MADRE)

With so much heavy history and many churches, the MADRE can be a good change of pace: The Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Donnaregina (MADRE) houses modern and contemporary art.

#5 Churches in Naples

Il Duomo di Napoli

My personal tip is always to visit churches anyway, if you want to get to know more about the cultural history of Europe, but don’t necessarily have the budget or time for extensive museum tours. And in the exceedingly pious south of Italy, churches can be found almost on every corner. In Naples you should not skip the Duomo.

Other churches worth seeing in Naples

Complesso Monumentale di Santa Chiara

Church with adjoining monastery. You have to pay an admission fee, but the cloister is a true oasis in the otherwise bustling old town of Naples.

Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo

The facade of this church alone is extraordinary! Inside, things continue pompous again.

Modernist facade of the Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo.

#6 Via San Gregorio Armeno: The Nativity Street

The Via San Gregorio Armeno is one of the most extraordinary streets in Naples. Even if you are not religious you will enjoy the not necessarily always Christian nativity figures sold here on this street, some of which are still handcrafted. In between, there are all kinds of satirical things, such as toilet paper rolls with Italian and international politicians. The italian humor is one of a kind!

Via San Gregorio.

#7 Vomero and the Castel Sant’Elmo

If you want to experience Naples away from the touristy old town, I recommend a trip to the Vomero district. Vomero is a somewhat calmer district, many well-kept old buildings in tree-lined avenues and a pleasant street life – it almost seems a bit like being in Paris. We also had a fantastic lunch here, by the way, at a tiny family-run osteria. No menu, no one speaks English, but instead there is real homemade Neapolitan cuisine, della Nonna, of course.

By the way, if you want to know where to find the most famous pizza in Naples, click here in my article: The best pizza in Naples

Osteria Donna Teresa in Vomero

Situated on a hill, Castel Sant’Elmo has the best view over the city. If you don’t want to pay the entrance fee, there is a viewpoint below the castle with a fantastic view over the old town, the harbor of Naples and the Vesuvius. The best way to get to Vomero is by metro (a sight in itself in Naples, by the way!) to Vanvitelli station, or by funicolare from Augusteo.

Best view over Naples

By Funicolare to Castel Sant’Elmo

#8 Metro dell’Arte: Line 1 & Toledo Station

The metro in Naples is still quite new, the first line was opened only in 1986. Some downtown stations were even added just a few years ago. Line 1 is nicknamed Metro dell’Arte because many of its stations are particularly artistic. Most worth seeing is the Toledo station – if you ride down the extra-long escalator here, you feel like you’re diving down into an aquarium. To get there, you need a valid metro ticket (single trip 1,10€). But I recommend you to buy a day ticket for your stay in Naples. It costs only 4,50€ and you can use ALL public transport like metro, bus and cable car!

The most beautiful of all metro stations in Naples: Toledo.

#9 Via Toledo & Galleria Umberto I

Shopping enthusiasts will have a great time on Via Toledo. I still think Italy is a teeny bit ahead in terms of fashion. Here you can still get the most beautiful clothes, from cheap to high-end, and just watching the Italians with their unique fashion sense gives you enough inspiration for your own closet. Those who are not so fashion-savvy may be pleased to see the many small snack stands, the friggitorias, with the typical deep-fried Neapolitan delicacies.

Impressive: The Galleria Umberto I

At the end of Via Toledo, almost somewhat hidden, is the Galleria Umberto I, a shopping gallery in the style of Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele II in Milan. Whenever I enter such shopping galleries, I’ll always enjoy the particular Italian style. The architecture is so impressive!

#10 Piazza Plebiscito to Castel dell’Ovo

Naples can be beautiful, but it can also be exhausting: The many small streets, uphill, downhill, the noise everywhere, the bustling traffic and daring scooter riders make the old town of Naples an experience. From Piazza Plebiscito you can take a short walk that will take you to a more relaxed area. Piazza Plebiscito is a real huge square, quite a contrast to the narrow old town. From here you can walk down to the water and enjoy the view of the Gulf of Naples and Mount Vesuvius with an Aperol Spritz in one of the simple beach bars on Via Nazario Sauro. For me one of the most beautiful places in Naples!

A little further on you will come to Castel dell’Ovo, a really impressive castle. Many rooms of the castle are not open to the public, but the entrance is free and from the top you also have a beautiful view.

Tips & hacks for your trip to Naples

Safety in Naples

Naples is one of the European capitals of pickpockets, along with Barcelona. I have been to both cities several times and personally, I think Barcelona is much more dangerous in terms of petty crime. Naples never seemed to me as critical as people say, except perhaps the area around the main train station. Nevertheless, you should be just as careful in Naples as in other big cities: Stow your cell phone and wallet away well and always be a little careful.

Tip for photographers

I always had my big camera * with me and haven’t been only for ergonomic reasons grateful for my cross body strap* . It also makes the camera less interesting for potential thieves, because you can’t tear the camera off the body. Cars should be parked in monitored parking lots or parking garages and do not leave valuables in them.

➜ You can find my full camera equipment here

Piazza Plebiscito by night

Best time to visit Naples

In my opinion, spring or fall is the best time to visit Naples. Under no circumstances would I recommend August (as for all other Italian cities). It gets very hot, besides August is general vacation month in Italy. Many stores are closed and the city is full of tourists.

Accommodation in Naples

In Naples, there are numerous small Bed & Breakfasts or apartments. We stayed at Tutt’e Sant Luxury Rooms, a small B&B consisting of only two very individually and tastefully furnished accommodations – with an authentic Neapolitan view. Particularly amusing was the elevator with absolute vintage flair, which ran right through the huge stairwell – and was equipped with a coin machine where you had to insert 5 cents before each ride. Quirky!

How to get to Naples

There are now many direct flights from different European cities to Naples, but unfortunately the airport is far too small for all the crowds that land there every day. It’s quite messy. You really need a good set of nerves there.

Reached by plane in two hours from Germany: Naples is perfect for a short trip.

From the airport you can get to the city by cab or public bus. If you go by cab, you will be asked whether you want to pay the flat rate (to the city about 18 euros, price list is displayed in the cab) or by taximeter. We thought we were particularly smart to choose the taximeter, but then had to pay 5 euros more. So don’t be shy to choose the flat rate.

If you want to travel from another city in Italy, I can also recommend the Italian train.

Driving through Naples by car, by the way, is adventurous (but doable if you follow Italian traffic rules: they are basically non-existent). In addition, car theft is not uncommon. We booked a rental car for our further trip to the Amalfi Coast, but at the rental office we were told to park the car in Naples in guarded parking lots only. I therefore advise you to book a rental car only when you continue your journey from Naples to the surrounding area. Many car rental companies also have stations in the city center around Garibaldi Central Station.

➜ Book a cheap rental car in Naples here*

Excursions from Naples

Naples is a perfect starting point for a road trip to the Amalfi Coast or excursions to the islands of Capri, Ischia or Procida in the Gulf of Naples.

Ideas for excursions from Naples:
➜ Trip to Capri
➜ Archaeological excavations in Pompeii
➜ Road trip along the legendary Amalfi Coast
➜ What you must see on the Amalfi Coast!

Visible from Naples: Mount Vesuvius.

13/10/2019
Venice: The bookstore Libreria Acqua Alta

Get to know the crazy bookstore in Venice! Don’t miss this amazing attraction! Cats in the bookstore as if it were the most normal thing in the world. But what is normal at the Libreria Acqua Alta in Venice?

Tip: The best locations & sights in Venice

Hidden: The entrance to the Libreria Acqua Alta is located in a small courtyard.

Libreria Acqua Alta: A Curiosity in Venice

Very small, the entrance to this other world is hidden in an alleyway of Venice, a bit off the usual tourist stream. If it weren’t for various piles of old maps, prints and books lying around in front of the door, one would hardly suspect this treasure for book nerds like me. There’s always something special about bookstores and libraries for me – they are so calming and so inspiring.

Looking for the best places to stay in Venice?
Get the best price here

Books and more books at the Libreria Acqua Alta in Venice

And the Libreria Acqua Alta is not only that: it is magical. A total work of art. Thousands of stacks of books, old, new, a mess, it’s cramped, dark, yet fascinatingly beautiful. It’s like being in the middle of a Harry Potter book. In between all the books, there’s always a bowl of cat food, because the (I think) eight cats want to be fed, too.

You can find even more of the “Dolce Vita” on my Italy blog!

The most unusual bookstore in Venice

Books are stacked everywhere—whether in an old gondola or in a bathtub—the possibilities for storing books are endless. Creative chaos around every corner. The name Acqua Alta becomes immediately clear when you see the “emergency exit”: One little hop and you land in the canal that runs along the back of the store. Just a bit of typical Venetian high water—and the bookstore is flooded.

Right on the canal: During high water, the Libreria Acqua Alta is regularly flooded.

Unfortunately, Libreria Acqua Alta isn’t really a hidden gem anymore, so during peak hours you have to jostle your way through the store with dozens of other tourists—and if you also want to snap an Instagram photo in the particularly Instagrammable spots, you’ll have to wait in line for at least a quarter of an hour. Crazy, right? Still, it’s worth a visit!

Address: Libreria Acqua Alta, Calle Longa Santa Maria Formosa 5176 – Castello, 30122 Venice
Hours: Daily from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.

***

Recommended reading:

Here’s another special bookstore: Livraria Lello—the Harry Potter bookstore in Porto

26/10/2018
Rome: tips for the 5 great classics

In Rome for the first time? I’ve put together a few tips for all Rome beginners here: what you must see, a few important and less important sights, important tips and first impressions.

Rome Tips at a Glance:
➜ Free admission & public transportation ticket with the Roma Pass
➜ Skip-the-line access to the Colosseum
➜ Where to stay: Generator Rome

Rome Classic No.1: The Colosseum

Somehow I always thought that the Colosseum was right in the center of Rome. But that’s not true at all. But it was easy to walk there from my accommodation near the main train station, and for everyone else there’s a metro station right in front of it.

It’s unbelievable how big it was built back then and how much the construction method has influenced today’s stadiums. The massive stones everywhere, the sheer size: if you haven’t visited the Colosseum in Rome, you’ve missed out.

The Colosseum in Rome: an absolute must-see, but unfortunately also very crowded.

In summer, the queues are endless. Even if, like me, you think half an hour after opening at 8 a.m. is early enough. You can order tickets from the official ticket office – but they are often sold out.

Please note: In addition to the official ticket store, there are also various commercial tour providers who sell tickets both online and on site with preferential admission so that you don’t have to queue.

In desperation, I actually opted for this option on the spot and ended up paying €30 (probably more by now), which was already the bargain price (yes, be sure to negotiate!). You still have to wait until the whole group is together. In return, you also get some extra information from the tour guide.

Overall, the ticket situation is quite opaque and anything but stress-free on site. So better buy your ticket in advance! If you can’t get a ticket at the official presale anymore, try this tour provider online:

Powered by GetYourGuide

Tip: If you would like to visit even more sights in Rome, it may be worth buying the Roma Pass for 48 or 72 hours. This gives you free entry to one or two sights of your choice and free travel on public transport.

➜ About the Roma Pass

Rome sight no. 2: St. Peter’s Basilica

The same applies to St. Peter’s Basilica: queuing is inevitable (at least in summer). In the afternoon, the waiting time is supposed to be shorter, but still: In the end, it was 40 minutes in scorching heat. But you can pass the time by admiring St. Peter’s Square in all its glory: The huge area framed by colonnades is impressive. And inside – well, with so much art, gold and pomp, no one remains unflashed.

Visit to St. Peter’s Basilica: what you need to know!

Admission to St. Peter’s Basilica is free. However, before going in, you have to pass a security check. St. Peter’s Basilica is a religious site, so pay attention to the right clothing, especially in summer: Shoulders and knees should be covered, but no headgear!

If you have time, you can also visit the Sistine Chapel with Michelangelo’s ceiling paintings and the Vatican Museums with their huge art collection!

➜ Buy tickets for the Sistine Chapel & Vatican Museums in advance

St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican is gigantic. With luck, the sun’s incoming rays will create an even more mystical atmosphere.

Rome Classic No. 3: Fontana di Trevi

Who does not know it, the huge Trevi Fountain, in which once bathed Anita Ekberg? Can still be seen today in Fellini’s film La Dolce Vita. The fountain, by the way, looks even more spectacular live, partly because of the really huge crowds that gather around it, but also because it is monstrous compared to the small Piazza di Trevi.

The Fontana di Trevi stretches across the entire façade of a palazzo and is so richly detailed in marble that you can always discover something new.

If you want to make the Rome experience complete, throw a coin over your shoulder into the fountain. But beware: getting directly to the fountain in summer is nearly impossible thanks to the crowds, unless you’re not afraid to poke your way through the crowd with your selfie stick.

Rome Sightseeing No.4: The Spanish Steps

Near the Fontana di Trevi is theScalinata di Trinità dei Monti – the original name of the Spanish Steps, named after the church it leads up to.

The German name derives from the square below, Piazza di Spagna. And actually, the Spanish Steps is just a staircase – but huge, overcomes quite a height difference and is a meeting place and hangout at the same time. There is enough space on the stairs.

Rome Classic No.5: The Pantheon

The Pantheon has been a Catholic church for over 1500 years – that alone is incredible. Even more unbelievable that it is even much older, almost 2000 years, and at that time was most likely a temple for all sorts of deities.

The Pantheon is a domed structure and was the inspiration for several famous buildings, such as the Capitol in Washington. In the middle of the dome there is a big hole as the only source of light – and when it rains, well, it just rains right into the Pantheon. Whereby the floor was designed so that all rainwater simply drains away. Quite fascinating.

Spend the night in Rome

Finding accommodation in Rome is not difficult, even or especially in the middle of summer. Many articles and travel guides advise against the area around Termini Station. There are a lot of hotels there, but many people are not very enthusiastic about the station flair around it. I admit, if you live in Berlin-Neukölln like I do, you probably have different standards; however, I was not afraid there in the evenings.

I can highly recommend the Generator Hostel (there are also cheap double rooms): Clean, nice, stylish.

➜ Information & Rates for Generator Hostel Rome

The proximity to Termini station, from which you can also get to the airport and everywhere else quickly and easily, made the location perfect for me. Traffic-wise, it couldn’t have been better. Especially with a few days stay!

22/10/2018
How to Enjoy Venice in Summer
You really have to want to go to Venice a lot if you dare to travel there in August. In general, all of Italy is on the verge of absolute vacation collapse around August 15, the most important and significant of all Italian holidays for travel. On the Assumption of Mary, “Ferragosto”, all of Italy is on vacation – and this does not go unnoticed in Venice. Small stores lower their shutters, quickly written notes announce company vacations (“siamo di ferie”) and wish a nice summer.

Venice in August: vacation mood in Italy

Instead, the rest of Italy will be visiting Venice, or at least part of it. But they are not really noticeable, because in addition to Italian tourists, half the world from near and far is still a guest. Not to mention the day-trippers from the huge cruise ships that invade Venice every day – yes, you just have to say it. Everything must be seen before the ship departs, quickly a photo between the pigeons in St. Mark’s Square, a short gondola ride with one of the beautiful gondoliers and absolutely an ice cream, in the wafer, with scoops piled so high that the photo of it becomes particularly instagrammable – although it is far too much ice cream for so little time.

You can find more tips for Italy on the Italy Blog

Especially when the mass of visitors and the summer heat make sightseeing even more arduous. Venice in one day is an impossibility anyway. Therefore, I wouldn’t exactly recommend high summer as a travel month – but still: Even tourist crowds and summer heat couldn’t spoil Venice for me. I just wanted to go to Venice so badly – because although I’ve been around Italy quite a bit professionally and privately, I only knew the city from stories.

Sightseeing in Venice – the tips: Where to start?

There is much to discover in Venice, art, history, architecture; and the fascinating geographical location with all the canals does her by the way. Seeing it all in a few days is a challenging undertaking, there are still the islands around Venice like Burano or Murano or the city beach on the Lido to discover.

St. Mark’s Square, St. Mark’s Basilica and Doge’s Palace in San Marco

The heart of Venice—an absolute must-see, both day and night. Many vaporetto lines stop here, so chances are you’ll pass by anyway.

In St. Mark’s Square, you’ll find St. Mark’s Basilica (note: admission is free, but you’ll still have to wait in line depending on the number of visitors), the Doge’s Palace with its beautifully romantic façade, the Campanile (which you can climb for a few euros), and various long-established cafés like Caffè Florian, where you can enjoy what’s probably the most expensive cappuccino of your life and, in the evening, be treated to sentimental love songs performed by the café’s own orchestra. It sounds cheesy, and it is. But there’s just an undeniable charm to sitting in this magnificent square and listening to the string section play old-school pop hits. By the way, if you don’t want to pay for a seat, just stand at the edge.

By the way, on the other side of the Doge’s Palace is the Bridge of Sighs, one of Venice’s most famous bridges. And with hundreds of bridges, that’s really saying something.

➜ Visit Doge’s Palace without queuing*

Finding the way to St. Mark’s Square in Venice is easy even without Google Maps: on many street corners and in many alleys the way to Piazza San Marco is marked, “La Piazza” is simply the central orientation point in the thicket of Venetian alleys and canals.

Grand Canal: Venice’s biggest street

The Grand Canal: Venice’s Lifeline: Instead of streets, Venice has only canals, and boats of all kinds are the main mode of transportation. In that sense, the Grand Canal is the highway that runs through the entire city. You’ll probably end up traveling along it at some point anyway, but it’s worth taking a vaporetto early in the morning to travel the entire length of the Grand Canal and watch the city come to life.

Contrary to my expectations, Venice is actually a city of early risers—no trace of that typical Italian leisureliness. Even at night, Venice is rather quiet; once the day-trippers have left, there isn’t much of a bustling nightlife. Another lovely thing to do on the Grand Canal: watching the sunsets.

Tip: It’s best to time your visit just right and head up to the terrace of the Fondaco dei Tedeschi, right next to the Rialto Bridge, at sunset. Admission is free, but you’re only allowed to stay on the terrace for 15 minutes—so timing is everything. When I was there, you could just walk right up to the rooftop terrace without a ticket. I only had to wait a little while. But the fantastic view over the Grand Canal is definitely worth it.

You can book tickets online in advance here

By the way, the (luxury) department store is also beautiful from the inside, the building used to be, as the name suggests, the trading place of the German merchants in Venice and later the main post office of the city.

Rialto Bridge and Rialto Market

The Rialto Bridge is both a bridge and a shopping street, much like the Ponte Vecchio in Florence. Small shops line the bridge on both sides. From the outer edges, you have a great view of the Grand Canal—unless hundreds of selfie sticks are blocking your view.

Right near the Rialto Bridge is the Rialto Market, where you can buy fresh fruits and vegetables the old-fashioned way. It’s all very traditional and a delight to behold. And don’t miss the fish market, right on the canal under centuries-old arcades—it’s worth getting there early.

Next door at Naranzaria, right on the waterfront and with the Rialto Bridge just around the corner, you can take a break with an Aperol Spritz and watch the gondoliers glide back and forth on the Grand Canal. More Venice is almost impossible.

Don’t miss this enchanted highlight of Venice: the Acqua Alta bookstore.

Dorsoduro: Punta della Dogana, Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute and lots of museums

Directly across from the Doge’s Palace is the Punta della Dogana headland—and this is also the best spot to appreciate the sheer size of the Grand Canal’s entrance, through which all merchant ships used to sail. Next door is the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute, which houses works by Titian.

Even if you’re not a fan of churches, when you’re in Venice, you simply can’t help but take a look inside a few of these impressive churches. Many of them house works by the most famous Venetian painters—so you get a free museum visit thrown in.
There are plenty of museums here in Dorsoduro, and anyone interested in art can easily spend at least a whole day exploring them all in this small area.

The most important museums in Dorsoduro:
- Peggy Guggenheim Museum
- Academia dell’Arte
- Punta della Dogana
Giudecca – the island of the Venetians

Sitting on the promenade in the evening with a glass of red wine, the Venetian water at your feet and the view of the sun sinking into the sea – definitely one of the highlights that make a trip to Giudecca worthwhile. Incidentally, the restaurants and cafes here are a lot cheaper and better than in San Marco – despite the spectacular view.

Giudecca is one of the islands off the coast of Venice; it’s actually more of a residential area. In the meantime, a few hostels have also opened up here. The vaporetto service to San Marco is excellent, and despite the extra cost of a vaporetto pass, it’s worth staying overnight on Giudecca to escape the tourist crowds a bit and observe everyday Venetian life.

Besides Giudecca, Murano and Burano are two other islands to see!

How to get to Murano and Burano: Book a half-day tour here!*

Venice accommodations

Accommodations in Venice are a bit of a mixed bag: they’re expensive, they aren’t particularly nice, and they’re especially hard to come by during peak season. That said, I hope this post will inspire you to visit Venice outside of peak season, because Venice really doesn’t need any more visitors in the summer. I wouldn’t go back in August either.

Many visitors to Venice therefore prefer to stay in Mestre, on the mainland, since that means taking the train to Venice every day. That’s an option, but I really wanted to experience the authentic Venice vibe—and in the end, it was incredibly convenient not to have to embark on a long journey every morning or evening.

Although it also involves a daily vaporetto ride, Giudecca offers a truly Venetian atmosphere, which made it a much better choice in my opinion. There are accommodations for those on a tight budget, such as the new, trendy Generator Hostel or the Sunny Terrace Hostel, a former student dorm that’s converted for summer use. But you can also find more upscale accommodations like the Hilton Stucky, a new Hilton hotel housed in an old factory—with the best views and endless charm. Giudecca is still something of an insider tip, but that seems to be changing right now.

In San Marco, you’re right in the thick of things. The Hotel Alla Fava* isn’t anything special, but its location is fantastic thanks to its proximity to the Rialto Bridge. And it’s in a very quiet spot, tucked away between a church and a small canal. It’s almost unbelievable that the tourist hustle and bustle is just two streets away.

The Donà Palace boutique hotel, with its quintessentially Venetian grandeur, is also in a fantastic location—though, of course, much more expensive—but its Venixino bar is in an even better spot, and it’s my absolute top pick for an evening drink:

Tip: Right on the canal—which runs a few meters further on, passing under the Bridge of Sighs—you can sit here in a romantic, secluded garden and watch the gondolas glide by on the canal while sipping one of the excellent cocktails from the hotel’s bar. By the way, the bar isn’t just open to hotel guests.
14/10/2018

This site is registered on wpml.org as a development site. Switch to a production site key to remove this banner.