Tag: Hoi An

  • Hoi An: 8 tips for one of the most beautiful cities in Vietnam

    Hoi An: 8 tips for one of the most beautiful cities in Vietnam

    Hoi An is probably the biggest tourist trap in Vietnam. And I still thought it was great, even though I’m rarely enthusiastic about places like this. Hoi An was completely different to what I had seen of Vietnam so far. At first glance, the old town of Hoi An is a mix of crowded tourist stronghold and highly polished attraction that has little to do with the rest of Vietnam.

    Old Vietnamese building with a bicycle and a vintage sign
    Beautiful motifs can be found on every corner in the old town of Hoi An.

    Having previously sailed through Halong Bay, fought my way through the hustle and bustle of Hanoi and taken a unique tour from Hue on a motorcycle, this stop was something completely different.

    Still, I had such relaxing days. So in this article, I’m sharing my best tips and spots in Hoi An with you, along with 8 reasons why you shouldn’t miss Hoi An on your trip to Vietnam!

    1. Hoi An: Paradise in Vietnam

    You’ll probably follow the usual itinerary on your trip to Vietnam, which means traveling either from north to south or vice versa. Hoi An is located almost exactly in the middle of Vietnam. This makes it the perfect place to spend a few quiet days after a hectic trip through cities like Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City.

    If you’ve been traveling in Vietnam for a while, you’ll notice how loud the streets are—and it might get on your nerves. That’s because the Vietnamese love to honk! They honk constantly—when passing other cars, at traffic lights, and when turning. And the streets are full of scooters, which are especially popular in Vietnam.

    Traditional Vietnamese lanterns hang in front of an old building in Hoi An

    Hoi An is a welcome exception: Only bicycles and non-motorized rickshaws are allowed in the historic center; cars and scooters are banned. The entire historic center is one big pedestrian zone! This means you can explore the old town on foot at your own leisure, without having to worry about getting run over by the nearest scooter rider.

    A woman wearing a straw hat strolls through a bustling Vietnamese old town

    The old town is quite clear. All the sights in Hoi An are close to each other. You can stroll leisurely through the streets and stop at the pretty cafes and restaurants. Many houses are also open to the public: there are often benches in the courtyards: just sit down and let yourself drift.

    2. the history of Hoi An and the historical old town

    Hoi An was founded by the Cham in the 4th century—that’s how old the city is! Between the 16th and 19th centuries, the city grew in importance. The port became one of the most important trading ports in the South China Sea until it was replaced by nearby Da Nang. However, the old buildings were preserved, and since Hoi An had completely lost its strategic importance, the old town remained entirely untouched even during the Vietnam War. That’s great for us, because it means Hoi An is now a magical place steeped in history.

    Traditional Vietnamese gate in Hoi An with the Vietnamese flag

    Although the old wooden houses in the Old Town have been hit by flooding several times, they are in very good condition. Most have been in the same family for generations, and many of the houses can also be toured from the inside. Most of the houses in Hoi An’s Old Town are actually inhabited, which is something to keep in mind when choosing what to wear. Vietnamese people are not very open-minded: covering your shoulders and knees is always a good and respectful choice when entering a private home.

    hoi an

    There are small ticket booths scattered throughout the Old Town where you can buy a 3-day pass. This pass grants you free admission to all attractions in Hoi An.

    backyard in old house
    old house in hoi an

    Looking for accommodation in Hoi An?
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    3. food in Hoi An: Vietnamese cuisine at its best!

    Hoi An is truly every foodie’s dream! There’s great food around every corner here, no matter your budget. Whether it’s small street snacks or elaborate menus at one of the many upscale restaurants, I haven’t had a single bad meal in Hoi An! Vietnamese cuisine is always very fresh and flavorful, but in Hoi An there are also plenty of innovative cafes and restaurants offering fantastic takes on Vietnamese specialties.

    Cooking course in Hoi An

    If you want to know how to recreate these dishes at home, just sign up for the right cooking class. Many restaurants also offer these kinds of classes, and they usually include a trip to the market. That way, you can get familiar with the ingredients right away.

    Book a cooking class in Hoi An

    You’ll find cooking classes in many countries in Southeast Asia. You’ll learn a lot about the exotic ingredients, and recreating the dishes at home won’t be that hard after all.
    Here you’ll find a detailed report on my cooking class in Thailand

    Restaurant Tips for Hoi An

    Green Mango serves delicious fusion cuisine that combines Vietnamese basics with Western elements. Things get a bit more experimental at the Mango Rooms, where unusual combinations meet tropical flair. And if you’re only going to visit one restaurant in Hoi An, make it Morning Glory —that’s where I had the best pork bánh mì I’ve ever had.

    But it doesn’t always have to be a restaurant: the street food in Hoi An is delicious everywhere, too!

    A colorful market stall with tropical fruits such as dragon fruit and mango
    Street food in Hoi An
    street food hoi an
    hoi an

    4. cafés in Hoi An: Ca phe sua da & Co.

    As much as I wanted to, I couldn’t bring myself to eat all day. But with temperatures over 35 degrees in the shade, I developed quite a taste for cà phê sữa đá, the typical Vietnamese iced coffee. And there are quite a few cafés in Hoi An. My favorites are Hoi An Roastery and Coco Box.

    A cozy Vietnamese café with guests at night
    One of my favorite cafes in Hoi An: Cocobox.

    You can find even more travel inspiration for Vietnam here

    5. shopping in Hoi An: tailor stores on every corner

    Hoi An is famous for its tailor shops. Throughout the old town, you’ll find numerous small workshops where you can have suits and dresses custom-made. I didn’t buy anything there because, once again, I wanted to save weight in my luggage.

    Hoi An tailor made fabrics

    What I have heard, though, is that tailors in Hoi An are supposed to be more expensive than in other places—it is, after all, a major tourist destination. Also, I’d take a close look at the quality of the fabrics: I’ve often had the impression that they cut corners there, and nothing is more disappointing than investing money and effort in a beautiful piece that, in the end, looks like it came from a discount store just because of the poor fabric quality.

    Hoi An tailor made fabrics

    As for souvenirs, I ended up sticking to tea—it weighs less—and the tea was really great. And if you’re lucky, you can even sample all kinds of different varieties during an authentic Vietnamese tea ceremony.

    Vietnamese tea products in a traditional tea shop
    Popular souvenir from Vietnam: tea in all variations.

    6. nightlife in Hoi An: lanterns, street food and balmy nights

    Hoi An is truly beautiful in the evening, when colorful lanterns light up the entire Old Town. The streets fill with people, and everyone enjoys the balmy nights with a fresh cocktail or dinner at one of the many fantastic restaurants. If you’d like, you can even buy your own paper lanterns at the night market.

    Colorful, glowing Asian lanterns hang decoratively at night
    Especially beautiful in the evening: the many stalls with colorful paper lanterns.
    Glowing lanterns above a bustling street in Hoi An at night
    The whole of Hoi An is decorated with lanterns.
    Hoi An's Old Town at Night with Lanterns and Boats
    Glowing red paper lanterns with candles at a nighttime festival

    7. relaxing on the beach – An Bang Beach

    Had enough of the Old Town? Right nearby, just a 20-minute bike ride away, is An Bang Beach—and it’s a wonderful place to relax after all that sightseeing. The beach is clean and wide, and the water is warm. And just like in the Old Town, you don’t have to worry about food and drinks: the beach is full of vendors who unobtrusively offer snacks and ice-cold water for a small fee.

    A quiet sandy beach with thatched-roof umbrellas and lounge chairs
    Hoi An An Bang beach sunset

    8. off to the countryside!

    If you’re in the mood for some country air and want to experience a bit of life around Hoi An, you should book one of the many day tours offered throughout the city.

    Traditional boat on the riverbank in Hoi An, Vietnam

    Many tours are done by bike, and in some cases you can also visit the small workshops where, for example, the famous paper lanterns are made. Or you can take the opportunity to pet a few water buffalo!

    Traditional bamboo fish traps in the tranquil river delta
    A water buffalo wallows in the mud among the green grass
    A farmer wearing a straw hat leads a water buffalo across a river
  • The Marble Mountains in Vietnam

    The Marble Mountains in Vietnam

    The motorcycle trip over the Cloud Pass in Vietnam held many surprises for me. Every few kilometers we stopped. My driver told me a story, showed me the most beautiful views, and dropped me off somewhere for dinner or coffee. Then in Da Nang we suddenly stopped at an elevator that seemed to be in the middle of nowhere. It quickly became apparent that the elevator led high up on the Marble Mountains.

    For me, one of the absolute insider tips in Vietnam: The Marble Mountains near Da Nang have really impressed me and were an absolute surprise on the trip!

    Marble Mountains Vietnam Da Nang
    The Marble Mountains near Da Nang: A real insider tip in Vietnam.

    My driver Duc would not go up, but now bought me a ticket for me to go all the way down again. (What can now be summarized in one sentence was a quarter of an hour pantomime show due to his English and my non-existent knowledge of the Vietnamese language).

    Da Nang beach

    The Marble Mountains in Da Nang: An absolute surprise!

    That’s all I could get out of Duc, so I just drove up. Probably the Marble Mountains were just a barren tourist trap for some marble souvenirs, I thought, and once at the top I immediately looked for the fastest way down. Not so easy – there were no signs, I didn’t even know where I had landed; and many winding paths led to a few temples and Buddha statues – but not down to Duc.

    marble mountains

    In any case, there were a few tourists around, so this must have actually been some kind of tourist attraction. One of the elderly ladies in front of the temple talked me into buying a few incense sticks, and I briefly enjoyed the silence before continuing my way down the hill.

    marble mountains
    marble mountains

    Check out my Vietnam blog for more interesting travel stories!

    Thanks to the lack of signage, I wandered around a bit until a couple of Vietnamese shouted “here, here!” to me between the densely overgrown paths around the temple. So I just follow behind. (Hm. As a solo traveler I should probably work on this naive reflex – strange men call “this way” and I’ll just follow.)

    The Marble Mountains in Vietnam: So many caves

    The path led behind the temple and grew darker and darker. A few other tourists were also wandering around. My curiosity was piqued. Suddenly, I found myself standing in a cave that was incredibly tall and densely overgrown—and I felt like Indiana Jones. What on earth was this? I glanced briefly into the dark, dim corners of the cave. And there, sure enough, were the most beautiful Buddha statues. Just like that.

    Marble mountains-51

    Beware of the “tour guides” in the Marble Mountains!

    Unfortunately, I couldn’t quite enjoy the moment—one of the “here, here” men had already sensed his chance, ran toward me, and snatched my last few incense sticks, which I had actually wanted to keep as a souvenir. I ran after him, and what at first seemed like an attempted purse snatching was probably meant more as a guided tour of the cave.

    marble mountains

    “Here, to get lucky, get lucky!” my newly appointed cave guide lit an incense stick, pressed it into my hand, and frantically motioned for me to place it in front of a Buddha statue. “Buddha good, Buddha good!” he shouted shrilly. I didn’t have time to take a closer look, because my tour guide had already lit the next incense stick and was herding me toward the next statue.

    We must have put on quite a show: the so-called “tour guide,” who was obviously high on too many stimulants, running manically with me from one dark corner to the next, and me, a naive sheep who was slowly starting to find the situation unsettling but who nevertheless decided to go along with the “tour” for the time being, running after the cave guide—who was on speed and waving my incense sticks behind him.

    Statue Cave Marble Mountains Vietnam
    Gloomy atmosphere: Many of the caves in the Marble Mountains are accessible.

    Fortunately, my pack of incense was soon completely torched, the “guided tour” through part of the Marble Mountains was over, and I pressed a few dong into the man’s hand, which he already held out to me as a matter of course. I was really worried whether his tip would be enough… Well, then. I’ve learned something new. So, in the Marble Mountains, you have to watch out for “tour guides” hanging around.

    Caves & Altars

    The way down, however, turned out to be more relaxed, suddenly huge groups of tourists appeared – I was no longer queasy now – and somehow I had half an orientation. Along the way I discovered one cave after another, large and small, sometimes so small that they could only be reached by climbing and crawling. (I recommend good shoes!) Each cave was an experience in itself!

    marble mountains
    marble mountains

    Practical information for the Marble Mountains

    • You have to pay for the elevator, the exact price slipped my mind, but it wasn’t much.
    • The Marble Mountains are located centrally in Da Nang, tour operators offer various tours there.
    • Be sure to pack sturdy shoes—the descent isn’t suitable for high heels, and the stone steps and caves are often slippery.
    • Be wary of so-called tour guides (see above) and of vendors once you leave the mountain. As soon as you’ve climbed the last step, they’ll immediately be hot on your heels, first trying to strike up a friendly conversation and then trying to foist their marble souvenirs on you.
    marble mountains

    What else to do in Da Nang

    If you’re not continuing on to Hoi An like I am, Da Nang is also a great place to stop for a while. Da Nang has a wide sandy beach with a few beach bars—perfect for a day of relaxation. Also, the Golden Bridge in Da Nang opened a while back—it’s a true work of art that you should definitely add to your itinerary. So spending a night in Da Nang is a great way to explore the area at your own pace!

    Find affordable accommodations in Da Nang here

  • Crossing the Hai Van Pass in Vietnam with an Easy Rider

    Crossing the Hai Van Pass in Vietnam with an Easy Rider

    The Hai Van Pass in Vietnam separates North and South Vietnam. And that’s where I had to go. When I asked at the hotel about the best way to get from Hue to Hoi An, the helpful receptionist advised me to take a motorcycle with a driver. Okay, then just with the motorcycle. If I hadn’t met two English girls in Hanoi on a boat tour through Halong Bay, who had done the same trip in the opposite direction and were totally enthusiastic about it, I probably would have decided against it.

    By motorcycle over the Hai Van Pass in Vietnam: An adventure.

    On a motorcycle? With 18 kilos of luggage (yes, I travel like a total girl)? The way they drive here? Never. But I couldn’t get the enthusiasm of the two girls out of my head – and I calmed myself down with the thought that they had survived the trip unharmed after all.

    Hai Van pass Vietnam road bend hairpin mountain curve

    Hai Van Pass in Vietnam: Endless serpentines

    The temptation was there. The route from Hue to Hoi An is very picturesque because it runs right over the Cloud Pass—a mountain range that cuts through the country like a swath, separating northern and southern Vietnam both geographically and meteorologically.

    Alternatively, you can do the route by train, bus or private car. Train I already knew, car was too expensive alone and the bus drives dull and without panoramic view through the tunnel under the mountains.

    Rent a motorcycle with driver in Vietnam: Safety & Organization

    My concerns about safety proved unfounded. My driver Duc conscientiously lashed my luggage to the luggage rack, wrapped in sturdy plastic to protect it from dust, and drove over the Hai Van Pass with European prudence.

    Cloud Pass

    Well, the helmet I brought with me only had a chin strap, and no one knows protective clothing in Vietnam either. As a motorcyclist, you’re on the road differently at home. No matter, at 36 degrees you are anyway glad about every piece less on the body. As Duc told me afterwards, we Germans are probably the most shy about a ride with him or with the motorcycle in general: safety and such. Therefore, I would like to put here especially to your heart: If you are ever in Vietnam before the choice… Just do it!

    Have you gotten a taste for it? On the Vietnam Blog, you’ll find lots more travel stories and general tips for a trip to Vietnam!

    Hai Van Pass Vietnam: Adventurous switchbacks and breathtaking views

    I had only booked the ride. Thought. But I have to admit, I hadn’t asked Duc again beforehand where we were actually going along and how the day was shaping up – communication in English was even worse than with the receptionist, with whom I also only understood the most important key data, so I just let it go. I would already arrive in Hoi An.

    Cloud Pass

    From Hue to Hoi An: Impressive landscape on the Hai Van Pass

    In fact, the one-way trip to Hoi An via Hai Van Pass turned out to be a total surprise package. Duc stopped with me at the most beautiful places on the way, took photos and joked around, and I tried to piece together info about the country and its people from his scraps of English.

    Hai Van Pass Vietnam View Motorcycle Ride
    Hai Van Pass Vietnam Da Nang Beach
    The mega wide beach of Da Nang.

    Takeaway of the day: Just letting things happen naturally feels so good! If I’d chosen the supposedly “safe” option of taking the bus, I would have missed out on so many wonderful things. The day was absolutely beautiful and worth every cent!

    Details about the motorcycle tour across the Hai Van Pass

    The Hue to Hoi An motorcycle tour crosses Hai Van Pass, also called Cloud Pass. The package includes both the driver and motorcycle, allowing you to relax and simply enjoy the scenery.

    Plan to spend around six to seven hours on the trip. The driving itself is shorter, but frequent stops in the mountains, Da Nang, and the Marble Mountains make it memorable. Because of these stops, it’s best to leave by 9:30 a.m. at the latest to avoid a rush at the end. Departure times are often flexible.

    Vietnam fishing boats Hai Van pass
    On a fishing boat used to live(!) whole families – up to 8 or 9 people!

    You’ll be picked up right at your hotel in Hue and dropped off at your lodging in Hoi An. The driver will carefully strap your luggage onto the motorcycle, and I was able to secure my heavy backpack on the luggage rack for the entire trip. While I can’t speak to larger suitcases or bulkier bags, I suggest checking with the provider ahead of time. It’s truly incredible how much luggage can fit on a motorcycle like that!

    If you still have time, you can add the Imperial Tombs in Hue to the tour for a small extra fee—they’re on the way out of town anyway.

    Here you can book a similar tour with an Easy Rider

    [thj_promo slug=”easy-rider-wolkenpass-vietnam”]

    Different option instead of a motorcycle

    If you’re not keen on riding a motorcycle, consider taking the Panoramic Train instead of the bus for the scenic route over the Hai Van Pass. This allows you to enjoy the beautiful views comfortably while traveling.

    Book your ticket here for the ride on the Panoramic Train over the Hai Van Pass

    [thj_promo slug=”zug-wolkenpass-vietnam”]

    Hai Van pass Vietnam train
    The train tracks belong to the train that runs from Hanoi down to Ho Chi Minh City – fantastic view included.
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