Category: Portugal

Here in the Portugal blog you will find all the articles about Porto and Lisbon, two cities with a special flair. Lisbon on the Tagus River is a beautiful destination for a city break at any time of year – with mild weather, there’s plenty to see even in winter. I have also discovered Porto for myself in the meantime! The big Portugal trip is still to come, but I am sure: Vacation in Portugal is high on my wish list!

Lisbon | Porto | Algarve

  • 7 Great Locations to Relax at the Algarve, Portugal

    7 Great Locations to Relax at the Algarve, Portugal

    A wellness vacation at the Algarve in Portugal was pretty much the best thing that could have happened to me in October. Warm temperatures, orange-red sunsets and a fresh sea breeze awaited me in Portugal. And after numerous wellness treatments in fantastic spas and a few encounters with the amazing Algarvios, I just fell in love with this beautiful place in Europe. Read the full article with my favorite locations!

    1. Companhia das Culturas in Castro Marim

    This place was exactly what I needed, when I arrived in Portugal! It couldn’t have been more different! A few hours ago, I was still in busy Berlin and although I love living in a big city, it can be exhausting from time to time. Berlin is a loud and rough city and life can be challenging. So arriving at the Companhias das Culturas was quite a shock – the tranquility here was overwhelming in a positive way. I knew that my time here would be more than relaxing!

    “Have you noticed? We don’t have music in the common areas here” Eglantina Monteiro, the owner, said to me with a bit of pride. The land on which Companhia das Culturas is located has been in the family for seven generations. Being a farm originally, the majority of all food processed in the hotel’s own restaurant comes from its own production!

    And honestly, it’s been a while since I’ve been served such a lovely breakfast in hotels for a long time. By the way, sustainability also plays a big role at the Companhias das Culturas. The breakfast isn’t served as a buffet to reduce food waste – such a great idea!

    Feel like traveling?
    You can find more articles about Portugal here

    At the Companhias das Culturas, you learn to focus on the essentials. Which is so relaxing! Getting up in the morning by the crowing of the rooster and watching the early morning mist over the fields slowly revealing the view over the vast property was my favorite thing to do! It felt so good to just seize the moment without any distraction.

    The lack of background music, by the way, was the very first thing that struck me as a flight attendant who has become very sensitive to noise over the years 🙂

    Companhia das Culturas: Check availability here!

    Tip: Start the day with a yoga class in the Corkbox, a space completely lined with Algarvian cork, and then head over to the hotel’s own hammam to relax.

    2. Epic Sana in Albufeira

    I’ve been driving up and down the street three times without realizing that the huge driveway with a gatekeeper and hedges trimmed to perfection belonged exactly to the hotel where I was going to spend the night! The Epic Sana is a five-star hotel, and to be honest, I love luxury; but sometimes it can be truly intimidating!

    The Epic Sana’s lobby is large, inviting and very shiny and one wall is covered with lots of awards and prizes the resort has won over the years. It doesn’t take two minutes and I’m greeted, checked in, have my room key pressed into my hand along with a flower and my luggage is already on the way to my room. The rental car I’ve just left outside the entrance has been parked away – and I’ve landed in another world in the blink of an eye.

    The entire complex is huge, I think I’ve counted four or five pools and the view from my balcony looks like a postcard: palm trees, sea on the horizon and lots of green. The property also offers a variety of bars and restaurants. I’m a bit skeptical. Wouldn’t I get lost in this huge resort?

    Sales Manager Daniel shows me the hotel. We explore the whole area with its numerous buildings and relaxing areas. I’m impressed!

    A cat runs by. “This is our hotel cat, by the way,” Daniel says. “He just settled here, and now he’s just part of the hotel. When we had to close due to the pandemic, we took turns among the staff to bring him food – someone always came over to take care of him.” So cute.

    My recommendation if you’re hungry: The brand-new Japanese restaurant at the Epic Sana will spoil you with the finest sushi! I even had one decorated with gold! Despite all the luxury, the atmosphere is absolutely perfect to relax and unwind from a day full of new impressions.

    Tip: Room rates may be higher at Epic Sana, but a few days here are so worth it! It’s the perfect place if you really need a break from the daily grind or need just a few relaxing days while on a road trip in Portugal. Consider a stop here and I’ll guarantee you, you’ll feel brand new afterwards!

    Check prices and availability at Epic Sana

    3. Praia da Falésia in Albufeira

    Right behind the Epic Sana, you’ll find one of the most impressive beaches of the Algarve. Praia de Falésia in Albufeira is also open to the public. From the rocks you’ll have a fantastic view over the red cliffs along the beach. Take one of the long wooden stairs and you’ll arrive down at the water.

    Tip: Don’t miss to enjoy the sunset from one of the rocks! The view is magical!

    4. Portimão & Hotel Bela Vista

    Portimão is not exactly known for its impressive architecture. On the contrary, tourism has also brought less attractive buildings to the popular Praia da Rocha. The Hotel Bela Vista, however, held its own in its exposed location right on the beach.

    Today, the main house, with its richly detailed interior, feels like something out of a 1930s spy thriller; while the palm-fringed pool and pastel-colored rooms feel like a retro version of Miami.

    Tip: After a day at the beach at Praia da Rocha, sip cocktails in the bar & fall in love with the interior design.

    Rates & Availability at Hotel Bela Vista in Portimão

    Landmark of Portimão: The Bela Vista at the Praia da Rocha
    Miami Retro Chic at the Bela Vista

    However, if you are on a budget, but don’t want to miss out on a bit of luxury, I can recommend the Longevity Health Club in Alvor. It’s not located directly by the beach, but the Longevity Health Club is brand new and aiming at wellness lovers. Also, the view over Portimão beach from the infinity rooftop pool is quite spectacular!

    Prices & Availability at the Longevity Health Club in Alvor

    5. Monchique & Caldas de Monchique

    Monchique is located in the mountains of the Algarve. This tranquil spa village is known for its pleasantly cool climate (perfect if the hot coastal temperatures, especially in summer, are too much for you) and its thermal springs, the Caldas de Monchique.

    Like a small village: Villa Termal Caldas de Monchique Spa Resort.

    At Villa Termal Caldas de Monchique Spa Resort, you’ll stay in one of four individually decorated hotels like in a small mountain village, and you can also take advantage of the on-site spa. There you can enjoy the mineral-rich thermal water, which is especially helpful for joint pains and respiratory illnesses, as well as wellness treatments such as hydro massages.

    Rates & Availability: Villa Termal Hotel Central in Monchique

    Tip: Monchique is not only good for relaxing, but serves also as a starting point for hikes in the mountain range of the same name, the Serra de Monchique.

    Long Tradition: The thermal bath in Monchique.

    6. Ria Formosa / Cacela Velha

    “Isn’t this relaxing”, Diana asks me and point at the vast beach around us. We are in Cacela Velha, a historic town on the coast and at the same time access to the Ria Formosa, a nature reserve that stretches from here for 70 kilometers along the coast to beyond Faro. The Ria Formosa is an extensive group of lagoons and famous for its richness of species. Since the water level in the lagoon depends on the tides, in places like Cacela Velha you can walk through the mudflats to the offshore island at low tide and plunge into the waves on the beach. But beware: in summer there are small fishing boats that shuttle between the beach and the mainland at high tide – in low season you have to either know when the tide is coming or swim all the way through the lagoon!

    The Ria Formosa Nature Reserve.
    The Praia de Cacela Velha

    Do not underestimate the tides! If you’re unsure, a local guide like Diana will help you explore the Ria Formosa. On the wide beach of Cacela Velha, it’s so easy to forget the world around you! And before you know it, the tide is coming!

    What to do:Counting the different bird species, looking for flamingos, chameleons and marine life such as the world’s largest seahorse population and letting Diana convince you that the Algarve is the most relaxing place ever!

    Book your tour with Diana here!

    7. Enjoy the culinary at the Algarve

    I believe, nobody has ever left the Algarve hungry! Especially sea food lovers are considering it their foodie heaven!

    Typical for Algarve: A Cataplana

    Even me, who likes fish but otherwise I don’t care much for seafood, couldn’t say no to typical dishes like the cataplana. A cataplana is a copper pot with a tight-fitting lid in which fish and seafood such as gambas or mussels are stewed, and is also used synonymously to refer to such a stew.

    While Portuguese cuisine is traditionally rather hearty, there are now many locations in the Algarve that take advantage of the region’s rich offerings and give the local cuisine a modern twist.

    My recommendations:
    Crisp salad bowls at the Pure Longevity Café at the Longevity Cegonha Country Club
    Juicy couscous with fresh salmon at À Terra at the Praia Verde Boutique Hotel
    Cataplana with fish and seafood at Companhia das Culturas

    Healthy food at the Pure Longevity Café
    A Terra: The restaurant at Praia Verde Boutique Hotel serves light, delicious Algarve cuisine.

    My research trip was sponsored by Visit Algarve.

  • Porto Attractions: 10 Highlights of the City on the Douro

    Porto Attractions: 10 Highlights of the City on the Douro

    Although Porto has been on my travel bucket list for a long time, I still never managed to get there. By now, it was almost a little too late—this former hidden gem in Portugal is more popular than ever and packed with visitors! Anyway, I was still thrilled: Here, I’m sharing my favorite sights in Porto!

    Tips for Porto:
    ➜ Save money on admission fees and public transportation with the Porto Card*
    ➜ Be sure to try port wine at one of the wineries in Vila Nova de Gaia
    ➜ Great deals on accommodations in Porto
    ➜ If you have more time: River cruise on the Douro*(full day)

    I always felt right at home in Lisbon, and it wasn’t much different in Porto. As a Brazilian, the language barrier isn’t really an issue for me, and the Portuguese are so warm and hospitable!

    Porto Attractions: Cais de Ribeira with the Dom Luís I Bridge at Night
    The massive Dom Luís I Bridge is one of Porto’s most impressive landmarks

    The Best Way to Explore Porto’s Sights

    In general, Porto is a good place to spend a few relaxing days. Porto is the second largest city in Portugal, but you can still reach a lot on foot. The only drawback are the occasionally very steep hills, if you want to walk back to your accommodation after a long day of sightseeing – depending on where you are staying. For this case, you can always resort to public transport, cabs or Uber. All very well priced, like everything else in Porto. Or you can be happy about the extra calf workout.

    You get lots of discounts with the Porto Card*—and you can use it to ride all public transportation for free!

    #1 Cais de Ribeira

    Ribeira is the port district of Porto – and sooner or later you’ll end up here anyway: life happens at the Cais de Ribeira, in the evenings there’s an atmosphere with street musicians, popcorn cars and full bars and restaurants, even in winter. Many of them are tourist traps, but sitting on the quay with a glass of Douro wine and watching the sunset is priceless.

    Porto Attractions: Cais de Ribeira on the Douro River

    Restaurant tip: At Bacalhau (a little off the beaten path and not quite as touristy), you can enjoy wine along with Portuguese bacalhau dishes given a modern twist. Eating bacalhau (salted cod) is an absolute must in Portugal.

    The streets behind the promenade still have a truly quaint atmosphere, and in the dark, narrow alleys, you get that harbor charm for free!

    Porto Attractions: Sandeman Port Wine

    #2 Dom Luís I Bridge

    Arguably the most striking of all Porto’s sights: At the end of the Cais de Ribeira, the gigantic Ponte Dom Luís I towers over the Douro River, connecting Porto with Vila Nova de Gaia across the river, which is known for its port wine cellars. Vehicles travel on both the lower and upper levels of the bridge. Pedestrians can also cross the bridge on both levels and enjoy the view of Porto, especially from the top.

    Sights in Porto: Ponte Dom Luís

    #3 Clérigos Tower

    One thing in advance, claustrophobically inclined people may not make it all the way to the top of the clock tower of the Igreja dos Clérigos (or Clérigos Church). The climb is very narrow at the end and the viewing platform is more of a narrow walkway around the top of the tower. Fear of contact with strangers is out of place here, otherwise you will neither go forward nor back.

    View of Porto from the Torre dos Clérigos

    On busy days, access is probably restricted here, but even on quieter days it can quickly get crowded at the top of Torre dos Clérigos. But you will be rewarded with the very best view over Porto: The Torre dos Clérigos is the highest church tower in all of Portugal and one of Porto’s landmarks.

    Buy a ticket online*

    #4 São Bento Station

    Can a dull train station be a place of interest? Yes, definitely! Especially when inside it is tiled all over with hand-painted azulejos, the typical tiles of Portugal. The white-and-blue artwork stretches from floor to ceiling in the Estação São Bento station concourse, leaving you in awe.

    São Bento Station in Porto

    The station itself is a terminal station; trains depart from here to the rest of Portugal and also to the scenic Douro Valley. And if you’re traveling by train anyway and don’t feel like walking far, you can stay right at the station: The Passenger Hostel features ultra-modern accommodations and offers everything from dorms to large, maisonette-style family rooms.

    You can find the Portuguese railway company’s schedules here: CP – Comboios de Portugal

    Inside São Bento Station with azulejos in Porto

    #5 Palácio da Bolsa

    One of the reasons I love Lisbon is its charm from days gone by, when Portugal was still a great seafaring nation and proudly displayed its wealth through its architecture. It’s not much different in Porto: The Palácio da Bolsa, the Stock Exchange Palace, is simply brimming with splendor. This is where major deals used to be struck—and a little cheating went on in those grand halls as well. What looks like ornate wood paneling at first (and even second) glance is, in many halls, simply cheap plaster. You wouldn’t notice it at all. A technique that was also used at Livraria Lello.

    Palacio da Bolsa in Porto

    The Palácio da Bolsa can only be visited as part of a guided tour. Guided tours are available in Portuguese, Spanish, French, and English.

    Tickets for guided tours of the Palácio da Bolsa*

    With the Porto Card*, you’ll get a 25% discount on in-store purchases.

    Inside the Palacio da Bolsa

    #6 Rua das Flores

    The Rua dos Flores (Street of Flowers) is something like the cozier shopping street in the old town of Porto. In contrast to the Avenidas dos Aliados, it is less spectacular and has fewer to no mainstream stores like Rua Santa Catarina, but you can still experience traces of the real Porto here. Small stores with goods for everyday use, traditional cafés and lots of art: even the electricity boxes here are all artistically painted throughout. Unfortunately, a form of gentrification is also setting in here – small, long-established stores like the bookstore further down have to leave Rua dos Flores and with them goes a piece of flair.

    Porto Attractions: Rua das Flores
    Rua das Flores in Porto
    Street Art on Rua das Flores in Porto
    Bookstore on Rua das Flores in Porto

    #7 Vila Nova de Gaia and Port Wine

    On the other side of the Douro, in Vila Nova de Gaia, are the port wineries that have made Porto so famous (or vice versa). Port wine is definitely something you should have tried in Porto! How this works and where to go there, I tested in my port wine self-experiment. i

    ➜ Drunk in Porto: Port Wine and Me

    Graham's Port Winery in Porto with port wine barrels

    #8 Bolhão Market

    The Mercado do Bolhão is one of Porto’s most famous markets and is located right in the heart of downtown. The Mercado do Bolhão was recently restored and now shines in new splendor. Here you can stock up on Porto’s signature delicacies: canned sardines in all varieties, bacalhau (salted cod—absolutely delicious—I could have lived on nothing but bacalhau dishes during my time in Porto!), and wine, wine, wine. Alternatively, it’s also worth visiting the Mercado Bom Sucesso, located just outside the city center near the Casa da Música concert hall.

    #9 Livraria Lello

    Livraria Lello is one of the most beautiful bookstores in Europe and is justifiably hyped. And it’s the first bookstore I’ve paid admission to. Unfortunately, the queues are now almost too long during the summer months, and you can’t really browse through books anymore: books are reduced to a minimum. Read also my article about the Livraria Lello.

    Porto Attractions: Livraria Lello with its staircase

    #10 Foz do Douro

    Porto is located on the sea, I had forgotten even on the spot before loud Douro panorama and old town hills. It takes only 20 to 30 minutes by bus or streetcar from the center to the suburbs of Matosinhos and Foz do Douro, located on the Atlantic coast. I was amazed how different Porto is here – rough sea, wild Atlantic. Total contrast to the tranquil old town.

    Foz do Douro in Porto

    Foz do Douro is also home to the Pergola da Foz, a formerly grandiose (and now restored) portico right on the promenade – but it’s not much of an attraction. There are a few beach bars right on the beach. Even in winter one or the other bar was open! So I could soak up some sun and enjoy the salty-fresh sea air.

    Pergola da Foz in Porto
    Beach in Foz do Douro, Porto

    Where to stay in Porto

    I stayed at the Porto Republica Hostel & Suites, and I couldn’t have found a better place. In addition to typical hostel beds in shared rooms, there are also cozy private rooms with en suite bathrooms. A room in the old building, with worn old wooden floorboards and a double door leading to the balcony, through which the sun always shone in the mornings—what more could you ask for? The hotel is relatively small and has a family-friendly atmosphere. It wasn’t fully booked during the off-season, though that’s certainly different in the summer. For me, it was the perfect mix of a great location, price, style, and just the right amount of coziness.

    Hotel in Porto: Porto Republica Hostels
    Hotel in Porto: Porto Republica Hostels
    Hotel in Porto: Porto Republica Hostels

    Arrival and Departure / Transportation within Porto

    Porto is becoming more and more popular, which is also noticeable in the numerous flight connections. Among others, you can get to Porto from Germany with Lufthansa* or Eurowings*.

    Within Porto you can get around the city very well by public transport. But even those I have used only little, because much is very good to reach on foot, and one explores cities anyway best walking.

    However, there are affordable day passes for public transportation, or you can buy the Porto Card*—it includes many other discounts, such as admission to the Palácio da Bolsa.

    * * *

    Browse more articles about Porto and Lisbon here:

  • Livraria Lello in Porto: The Famous Harry Potter Bookstore

    Livraria Lello in Porto: The Famous Harry Potter Bookstore

    No wonder J.K. Rowling is said to have been inspired to write her Harry Potter books in this bookstore! The Livraria Lello in Porto is one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. Even if you are not a book nerd, you will be highly impressed by the intricate interior. Porto itself is already a fascinating city. Still full of history of when Portugal was a majestic country of seafarer, Porto is now one of the new trendy destinations in Europe. It’s welcoming, charming and young – and with its new fame it’s now keeping quite well with the ever-popular Portuguese capital Lisbon.

    Tips for Porto:
    ➜ You can book a complete Harry Potter tour of Porto here*
    ➜ The 10 best sights in Porto
    ➜ Spend the night in a beautiful old building: hotel tip for Porto*

    Livraria Lello: From Harry Potter to worldwide fame

    While J.K.Rowling was most likely often able to browse the shelves of the old Livraria Lello alone in her Porto days, today it’s so crowded that you even have to buy a ticket before visiting. You’ve read it right: Livraria Lello is probably the only bookstore ever to charge an admission fee. There was no other way to cope with the crowds of visitors in what is actually a small bookstore! On many days, there is even a queue outside the bookstore because the store’s capacity is exhausted.

    livraria lello porto staircase
    The spiral staircase in the middle of the store is the famous centerpiece of Livraria Lello in Porto.
    livraria lello porto upper level
    Very instagrammable: The Livraria Lello is a highlight in every Instagram feed.

    Livraria Lello: One of the Instagram hotspots in Porto

    I would have loved to have a look around Livraria Lello with more time, because the selection of books across all genres is absolutely gorgeous . But somehow you don’t feel much like browsing when people are pushing right and left to get the best Instagram photo in that limited space. Especially a place on the stunning red spiral staircase, which goes from the first floor to the second floor in the middle of the store, are highly sought after. But who could blame them? It’s really beautiful.

    You can find out more about Portugal in my Portugal blog!

    Harry Potter bookstore Porto Livraria Lello

    The secret of the Livraria Lello

    The entire bookstore is completely paneled in ornately carved wood from top to bottom. At least it seems so. Because in addition to the Harry Potter story, the Livraria Lello also hides a small, not very well-known secret: The wood carvings, such as the imposing ceiling with its many scrolls, are in many places not made of wood at all, but of painted plaster, a technique that was also used in the Palácio da Bolsa in Porto. (Read more about the Palácio da Bolsa in my Porto Guide!)

    glass ceiling window at the Livraria Lello Porto
    Not as real as it seems: The interior of Livraria Lello.

    Information & Admission Livraria Lello Porto

    The entrance fee to Livraria Lello is currently 5€. You need to buy the ticket this next door in the separate ticket store, where you can also get lots of Harry Potter merchandise. Which is actually absolute unnecessary, because Livraria Lello is an amazing location even without all the hype around Harry Potter.

    The entrance fee can be offset against a purchase, but often you won’t be able to browse in peace or finding something for exactly €5. If you don’t find anything, you get a small brochure about the history of the bookstore of the Lello brothers for your 5€ at the exit. Well, at least it’s something. 🙂

    Harry Potter in Porto

    If you are even more interested in Harry Potter, then this small but nice tour is definitely worth a visit. The admission fee is already included. Also great with kids, who will definitely remember their Harry Potter experience for a long time, because Livraria Lello is truly magical.

    ➜ Book your Harry Potter tour through Porto here!*

    old cashier Livraria Lello Porto
    Pastel de Nata

    Special bookstores in the world

    It should be no secret by now that I’m a book nerd – and in foreign cities I’m usually drawn to bookstores or libraries. Books are just so fascinating. And by books I mean “real” ones made of paper! I couldn’t get used to eBook readers and PDFs until today. There’s nothing like the feel of books on paper, is there?

    Here you can find more about another very special bookstore that also fascinated me:

    ➜ Acqua Alta in Venice

    book shelves Livraria Lello Porto Portugal
    Livraria Lello e Irmão Porto Portugal

    More tips for Porto

    Do you like the Livraria Lello? Porto has so much more to offer. Maybe you’ll find more inspiration for a little trip to Porto in my other articles:

    ➜ The best sights in Porto
    ➜ Port wine tasting in Porto (be sure to try it!)

    Where to stay in Porto

    Great places to stay aren’t hard to find in Porto, but I can especially recommend the Porto Republica Hostel & Suites*! Don’t let the word “hostel” in the name put you off: they also have gorgeous double rooms with private bathrooms.

    Old building hotel in Porto
    My hotel recommendation for Porto

    The Porto Republica is located in a large historic building with high ceilings, herringbone parquet flooring, and a stylish atmosphere. It’s perfect for a city trip if you’re on a tight budget but don’t want to miss out on some eye candy.

  • Drunk in Porto: The port wine and me.

    Drunk in Porto: The port wine and me.

    It’s so beautifully called “Vinho do Porto” in Portuguese. And while you’re there, what could be more natural than a port wine tasting in Porto? Port wine is, after all, one of Porto’s oldest export hits and THE city’s signature product. Porto lies on the Douro River, and further east along the Douro lies the Douro Valley. This is where the grapes for this special wine are grown and pressed. In the past, boats known as “rabelos” transported the wine to Porto, to the most beautiful port wine cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia. There, the wines continue to age—for years or even decades, depending on their quality. By the way, today tourists cruise along the Douro on the Rabelos instead of transporting port wine—and I’ve heard it’s really worth seeing.

    port wine porto barrels in graham's winery
    The younger port wines are stored in large wooden barrels.

    Are you planning a trip to Porto?
    If so, I highly recommend my Porto Travel Guide!

    What is port wine?

    Actually, I’m not a big fan of port wine. Port wine is one of the sweet wines, they say, but it makes me sick to my stomach because it is so strong and reminds me more of cognac. And wine-wise, I’m generally not an expert. Although I’ve had plenty of opportunities to taste good wines, my wine knowledge doesn’t get beyond a simple “I like it” or “I don’t.” I’m sure they could slip me wine from a tetrapak and sell it as the most expensive wine ever. But I like to get to know new things on my travels, and Porto doesn’t work without port wine!

    port wine porto Graham's winery bottles
    Kept like a treasure: some vintages are really valuable port wines.

    When and how do you drink port?

    Traditionally, port is enjoyed as a digestif and paired with a cheese platter or dessert. It is served in tulip-shaped glasses that are slightly smaller than standard red or white wine glasses. Since port has a high alcohol content, only small amounts—typically about 80 to 120 ml— are usually served. However, port is also excellent when served chilled as an aperitif, as an accompaniment during a meal, or as an ingredient in cocktails.

    Port wine tasting in Porto: Where to go for a good port wine tasting?

    The friendly hotel employee recommended Graham’s Winery to me. Because when you stand on the banks of the Douro and look across to Vila Nova de Gaia, the dilemma becomes clear: one port wine winery follows another. Whether it’s Sandeman, Graham’s, Ferreira, Taylor’s, or Calem—one neon sign competes with another for attention. All the wineries offer guided tours followed by tastings; the Sandeman grounds even feature a hotel or hostel.

    port wine porto barrels winery wine tasting
    Graham’s in Vila Nova de Gaia: At this port wine cellar, you can buy and taste port wine

    Guided tour of Graham’s Lodge

    The tour of Graham’s winery is offered in different languages and is really informative: after a short film about the production in the Douro Valley, a tour guide leads you through the winery.

    port wine porto portugal wooden barrels winery
    Port wine tasting at Graham’s in Porto

    Port wine tasting with Tawny and Ruby

    By the way, I ended up in the Portuguese-speaking tour with a handful of Brazilians. Which made it all the more amusing, because we Brazilians are communicative by nature and even more so after three glasses of port wine. In summer it must be even more beautiful up here: from the in-house restaurant you have the best view over Porto! Incidentally, I could taste out differences despite my untrained palate: I am more Tawny than Ruby. Further insight: Three port wines – and I’m blue.

    port wine porto three glasses port wine sample free of charge
    Tawny or Ruby? With port wine, there are such differences.

    The tour includes three different varieties, but connoisseurs can also go all out and sample the crème de la crème of port wines—provided they have the necessary cash on hand, since the wine tasting alone can cost as much as 200€.

    Prior reservation is strongly recommended in high season!

    ➜ Tickets for Graham’s Port Lodge* (with food pairing)

    How do you get to Graham’s Lodge in Vila Nova de Gaia?

    Vila Nova de Gaia is located on the other side of the Douro River. If you’re staying in downtown Porto, it’s a bit of a trip to get to Graham’s Lodge by public transportation. However, with the Porto Card*, you can use public transportation—including the metro and buses—for free. There are many port wine cellars in Porto, but Graham’s Lodge is particularly beautiful with its impressive view of Porto.

    If you don’t feel like looking up addresses and directions, you can also join a walking tour and visit several wineries in a single day:

    ➜ Walking tour of Vila Nova de Gaia with several port wineries*

    Other port wineries in Vila Nova de Gaia

    If you don’t feel like or don’t have time to drive all the way out to Graham’s (I took the bus there and strolled back along the Douro in the evening—but it’s quite a distance), you can also visit the Calem wineries and sample some port there! Calem is also located on the other side of the Douro, but right on the riverbank and near the Ponte Dom Luís I.

    ➜ Fado evening with port wine tasting at Calem*

    port wine porto Graham's
    Port winery and wine bar with a view of Porto
  • 12 pictures that will make you want to go to Lisbon right away

    12 pictures that will make you want to go to Lisbon right away

    Recently, I’ve been to Lisbon. Not for the first time, and since I’ve pretty much covered all the sights several times already, I didn’t necessarily bring back many classic Lisbon photos this time. It’s a shame really, because there is so much beauty to see there. So I dug out a few Lisbon pictures from my meanwhile exploding photo archive.

    Alfama & Tramway

    Streetcar in front of cathedral in Lisbon

    What absolutely belongs to Lisbon: A ride through the Alfama with one of the old streetcars. I do it every time, because it’s so Lisbon.

    Miradouro de Santa Luzia

    View of Alfama from Miradouro de Santa Luzia Lisbon

    Lisbon has so many hills, it’s incredible. Good for staying in shape – and there are just so many great viewpoints like the Miradouro de Santa Luzia.

    ➜ You can find information and tips for your trip to Portugal on my Portugal blog

    Sailor romance

    Lisbon sailor statue

    Located at the mouth of the Tagus River where it flows into the Atlantic Ocean, the Portuguese have always been a seafaring people. In general, all the water around Lisbon is wonderful: I love that fresh sea air. There are also some really nice beaches nearby, by the way.

    Azulejos

    Facade with azulejos in Lisbon Portugal

    Those facades! All over Lisbon, you can still find these amazing old buildings, covered from top to bottom with tiles—the azulejos. One facade is more beautiful than the next. The Portuguese are true tile artists. It’s a craft in its own right. At flea markets and in antique shops, you can also find plenty of old tiles to take home as souvenirs—though, due to the growing popularity of tiles among tourists, they’re apparently often stolen from old houses to be resold…

    Elevador do Carmo

    Elevador do Carmo and Chiado in Lisbon

    From the Castelo de São Jorge up in Alfama, you have one of the best views of the city. By the way, that gray thing in the middle is an elevator! The Elevador do Carmo, also known as the Elevador de Santa Justa, connects the Baixa (down) and Chiado (up) neighborhoods. The steel structure is over 100 years old and runs like a charm! And taking a ride on it is one of those things you absolutely have to do when you’re in Lisbon.

    Castelo de São Jorge

    Peacock in Castelo de São Jorge Lisbon

    The area around Castelo de São Jorge is a great place to spend time, especially during the hot summer months—there are plenty of trees providing shade, a fantastic view, and even peacocks roaming freely.

    Cobblestone

    Lisbon Portugal cobblestones

    One more thing Lisbon is known for: ornate cobblestone streets. The patterns are always black and white—and so beautifully done.

    Corner stores

    Store with candles in Lisbon

    What stands out in Lisbon: there are so many old specialty shops steeped in history. Sure, you see plenty of big-chain stores in the city center, but all in all, Lisboners love their charming little corner stores. And so do I. Like this candle shop. By the way, there’s also a centuries-old store right in the heart of Lisbon that sells nothing but gloves. All year round! Nothing but gloves! And it doesn’t even get that cold here…

    Vintage charm

    Old house facade in Lisbon

    Lisbon isn’t dirty—Lisbon has character! Weathered facades like this one are really what give the city its charm. And I just loved the color.

    Elevador da Bica

    Elevador da Bica Lisbon

    It’s not a streetcar, but an elevator: The Elevador da Bica simply goes up and down a single street. All day long. But given the steep incline, people are happy to use it.

    Everyday life in Lisbon

    Clotheslines in front of window in Lisbon

    You can’t find clothes racks in Lisbon. Just hang the laundry out the window, and you’re all set.

    Views

    View from the Miradouro in Lisbon

    Who wouldn’t want to go there right away with the view? I would want to right away!

  • How to spend a perfect day in Lisbon

    How to spend a perfect day in Lisbon

    Unfortunately, Lisbon is not part of my professional travel repertoire, so I am rarely there. But when I do, this city flashes me every time. And I always feel like I’m in a second home. I like Portugal at all, maybe that’s also due to my early childhood imprinting.

    lisbon

    So that I could pick up at least a little Portuguese, my Brazilian mother always sent me to “supplementary native-language classes” when I was in elementary school. It sounds important, but it was just hot air. I was the only girl among eight Portuguese boys, because the program was actually aimed at families of guest workers from Portugal. Brazilians? There weren’t any in our big city back then. And so, once a week in the afternoon, I’d take the bus and train all the way across town so I could spend an hour watching the boys mess around, otherwise I didn’t understand a word and tried to cover it up by consistently refusing to speak and resorting to a heart-wrenching, wide-eyed puppy dog look. Because our grandmotherly teacher spoke Portuguese from Portugal, which I understood even less with my meager language skills. At the end of each school semester, though, I’d get a nice “B” (for the big, round eyes, not for the Portuguese—but that didn’t show up on the report card) and a big hug from our teacher for sticking it out.

    lisbon

    Lisbon’s 28: Nostalgia in the Alfama

    Decades later, I’m standing in a crowded tram, wondering why on earth I had to put myself through this. Small, cramped spaces packed with strangers just aren’t my thing. It’s just an occupational hazard. It rumbles and jolts, creaks and clatters. With unexpected gusto, the miniature tram races through the streets of Alfama, up hill and down dale, and with every rapid acceleration, I find my nose buried in the armpit of yet another stranger hanging from one of the handrails dangling from the ceiling: At 1.60 meters tall in sneakers, I’m not exactly at an advantage on crowded public transportation. But a ride on Line 28 is a must when you’re in Lisbon anyway. That’s what the hundred other tourists I’m crammed into the tram with are thinking, too—all on the hunt for that genuine, authentic Lisbon vibe.

    Vamos passear! Vamos para a Feira da Ladra!

    I guarantee none of the locals ride this line anymore. The 28 is basically like the No. 100 bus here in Berlin—for just a little money, you get a ride to the best sights and a whole lot of local color thrown in for free. But while in Berlin the bus driver’s scolding for whatever reason is also free, our driver is brimming with Portuguese joie de vivre: “Come on in, everyone, hop on, let’s go for a ride—it’s such a great day today! Head over to the flea market! And take lots of photos of the tram—come on up close!” he calls out to the tourists standing on every corner to snap that classic Lisbon shot, proudly posing behind his tram steering wheel for every photo. A tram in a narrow street, a tram in front of the Sé Cathedral, a tram coming around the corner, a tram at the Miradouro. You can’t visit Lisbon without taking a photo of a tram. But these indestructible, nostalgic trams are simply one-of-a-kind.

    You can find all my tips on Portugal on the Portugal Blog

    If you’re in Alfama on Tuesdays or Saturdays, be sure to stop by the Feira da Ladra, a flea market with some Lisbon kitsch souvenirs – but also some really nice junk.

    Lx Factory in Lisbon: nostalgia for hipsters

    The Lx Factory, an old factory site, is the counterpart to the historic Alfama – this is hipster Lisbon. And somehow a bit like all the other hipster places in the world. Hipster Cafe. Hipster restaurants. Hipster stores. Beards. Street Art. Worth seeing: the Ler Devagar bookstore. A bit out of the city center, but easy to reach by bus and train (a day pass for only 6€ or so is a good idea in Lisbon anyway, just for the spectacular streetcar rides through the old town).

    I have to say, though: I wasn’t really blown away by the Lx Factory—maybe it was just because I was there at noon; it might be even more interesting in the evening. Or maybe I’m just tired of the same old hipster shops all over the world. Or: It just doesn’t really feel much like Lisbon—or at least not like what I associate with Lisbon: that magnificent charm of a once-grand city, surrounded by sun and water and still brimming with history. Old factory or not—Lisbon simply has so much more to offer.

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