The Happy Jetlagger

Tag: Serra de Tramuntana

Restaurant Es Verger in Alaró
At Es Verger restaurant in Alaró, it’s said that you can get the best lamb shoulder on the island. To say one thing up front: Yes, it was probably the best lamb shoulder I have eaten in my life. On the other hand, a visit to Es Verger is one of the greatest adventures you can have on Mallorca – find out why here!

View from Es Verger Restaurant

An excursion to Es Verger in Alaró

Alaró is a small village at the foot of the Tramuntana mountains in the west of Mallorca. Alaró is best known for its weekly market, which takes place every Saturday in the village center, and for the Castell d’Alaró, which towers above the tranquil town on the Puig de Alaró. On the way there is the excursion restaurant Es Verger, also very popular among Mallorcans.

Fancy a relaxing vacation in the mountains of Mallorca?
Click here to book your accommodation in the Serra Tramuntana!

You can find more tips for Mallorca here

The best lamb shoulder in Mallorca

Rumor has it that Es Verger is THE place to go for the most tender shoulder of lamb ever. But also the lechona (suckling pig) and the cabrito de montaña (goat) are also among the house’s signature dishes. At Es Verger, the meat is slowly roasted in the huge wood-burning oven for hours in the morning until it lands on the plates at noon, aromatic and soft like butter. Meanwhile, the Mallorcan lamb shoulder of Es Verger has brought it to some fame since it’s been discovered by British TV chef Rick Stein who did a bit for a BBC show here. Even the German star chef Tim Mälzer has once filmed here and written down his own recipe.

Tim Mälzer’s recipe for Mallorcan lamb shoulder

The ambiance is rustic and simple. Outside, you sit on plastic chairs like in a beer garden. However, with the fascinating mountain panorama all around, this isn’t important at all.

You may also have to get used to the fact that the meat, so delicious, is so tender not only because of the long braising, but probably also because of its freshness: at least some small goats run around on the property and you’ll hear them moving.

Hiking to Es Verger

It takes about an hour and a half to walk up from Alaró to the restaurant Es Verger, and there are quite a few meters of altitude to climb. So in summer, it is rather not recommended if you do not leave early enough. (Please also check if it’s open at all, sometimes the restaurant is closed for vacation in plain summer.)

By car to Es Verger

Alternatively, you can drive up to the restaurant and park in a parking lot. I have ignored warnings that the way here is adventurous. I said to myself, if others can make it up there, then I can do it too, that’s for sure!

However, I didn’t expect what was coming: The road that leads up is mostly not asphalted and hardly wider than a small car. And it’s full of tight curves uphill! The road is rather reminiscent of a hiking trails and you won’t see any guard rails or anything alike. But my adrenaline level reached its peak when oncoming traffic appeared – often the only thing that helped was to roll backwards to the next slightly wider spot and pray that it fits somehow without any major damages.

The ride up is really not for the faint of heart.

Tips for the drive

But if you still can’t let it go (like me), here are a few tips:
- Remember that you have to accept damages to the car on this route. Especially because of the bumpy road, this drive is not recommended for sports cars.
- Are you traveling by rental car? I always recommend fully comprehensive insurance without an excess, for example by booking here *. It doesn’t usually cover damage from driving over such crazy roads, but maybe it will help.
- Go with the flow: Drive up in the morning if possible, then there are fewer cars on the road and there is little oncoming traffic.
- Aim for Es Verger for lunch before many dishes are sold out, then you can head up to the Castell and then back down in the late afternoon with everyone else like in a convoy.
- Parking: Also because of the parking situation on site you should go early. Parking is limited, so is the space above. If you arrive too late, you have to park rather adventurous in the few bays just outside the parking lot. Or even worse: You have to go all the way back immediately (happens again and again), because there is simply no more space left and you made all the effort for nothing.
- The higher up you are, the less likely you are to find a opportunity to turn around.
- So if you’re scared to death after just a few minutes, you’d better turn around and go back while you can. After a certain point there is no turning back and you have to go up to the parking lot.
- Drive carefully!
However, whether on foot or by car, you’ll have earned yourself the huge portions at Es Verger by the time you reach the top!

Es Verger
Camino del Castillo de Alaró
daily 10am-8pm, except Mondays
14/06/2022
Sant Elm: insider tip for Mallorca’s southwest (+map)

“Do you know a quiet place on Mallorca to relax, with a bit of beach, good food and just a nice place to stop?” I’m often asked this or similar questions about tips for Mallorca – and quite often my counter-question is: Have you ever been to Sant Elm? In this article, I’ll tell you why the small town on the westernmost tip of Mallorca is worth a visit.

Tip: Sant Elm is a really charming vacation resort, but accommodation is rare! If you would like to spend several days here:
➜ Book your accommodation well in advance*.

Turquoise blue water and endless tranquillity: Sant Elm on Mallorca

Sant Elm: At the westernmost end of Mallorca

The winding country road meanders ever more tightly down through dense pine forests. Will anything come of this at all? I drive from Palma in the direction of Andratx, and this part of Mallorca is somehow strange anyway.

Looking for more inspiration for your favorite island?
➜ Click here for all Mallorca tips

Here, in this particularly sunny corner of Mallorca, blessed with the most beautiful bays, you will find one estate agent’s dream after another: Light-flooded villas line the slopes around Port d’Andratx and in hardly any other region of the island is the density of celebrities higher. And so you would hardly suspect that this special gem is still to be found behind Andratx: Sant Elm is like a small, hidden oasis!

Beach paradise: The idyllic bay of Sant Elm

Peace & vacation flair in Sant Elm

Sant Elm is a curious little village. A bit abandoned by locals, it is mainly inhabited by tourists and vacation home owners. A proper infrastructure like in other places with fully equipped supermarkets, stores for daily needs, schools or kindergartens is virtually non-existent here. What remains is a quiet, manageable place with everything you need for a 1-2 week stay and a relaxed atmosphere that immediately puts you in the vacation mood.

Carrer Cala en Basset is the main shopping street in Sant Elm

The beach of Sant Elm is located directly in the center of the village, the distances are short. A small snack in one of the bars at lunchtime, then back to the beach: no problem in Sant Elm. The water in the bay is clear and so turquoise blue on sunny days that it almost hurts your eyes! A dream for all beach fans!

Hike through La Trapa

The La Trapa nature reserve borders Sant Elm, with a great hiking trail along the coast. From the monastery ruins of the same name, La Trapa, you also have a breathtaking view of the offshore island of Sa Dragonera.

Book a guided hike to La Trapa* here

A detour to the Torre de Cala en Basset is also worthwhile. (Hiking trails and access roads are currently being repaired, it is better to check the current situation on site to see if everything is accessible. – As of May 2021)

Sa Dragonera

Like Cabrera, Sa Dragonera is an offshore island that has been declared a nature reserve. You can explore the island yourself along designated hiking trails. The visitor center provides information about the island’s special flora and fauna. (For example, there are lots of lizards here, hence the name – or a large population of falcons).

There are regular boat trips there from Sant Elm and Andratx. There is no catering on site and garbage must also be taken away.

➜ Boat trips to Sa Dragonera*

Accessible from Sant Elm: The nature reserve on the island of Sa Dragonera

Eating & drinking in Sant Elm

The gastronomic offer in Sant Elm is manageable, but quite positive. If I were to spend several days here, I would probably be an instant breakfast regular at Forn Sa Palomera and would try my way through the display of freshly baked crossaints and pastries every morning. Absolute recommendation! (And not just for breakfast, of course!)

Tip: Forn Sa Palomera

Lovers of fresh fish and seafood will be delighted with Es Raor: Mediterranean cuisine in front of such an impressive panorama – what more could you want?

Dining with a sea view in Sant Elm

Spend the night in Sant Elm

Due to the size of the village, the choice of accommodation is limited. Even if, like me, you don’t normally go for plain vacation hotels – maybe you’ll make an exception here.

The Universal Hotel Aquamarin* and its sister hotel Don Camilo* may not necessarily win the next design award for the most stylish interior, but the only two larger hotels on the square offer solid service and probably the best panoramic views in Sant Elm. And you can enjoy the biggest advantage of Sant Elmo here: endless peace and quiet.

➜ Find all offers (hotels & apartments) in Sant Elm* here

Map with all places in and around Sant Elm

Day trip to Sant Elm

Is spending your entire vacation in Sant Elm too quiet for you? No problem, I always recommend Sant Elm as a nice day trip, especially if you want to see a bit of something but don’t really fancy the crowds.

Rental car

The best way to reach Sant Elm is by rental car. The journey from Palma takes around 35-40 minutes.

➜ Book your rental car for Mallorca here*

Public transport in Paris

Getting to Sant Elm by public transport is somewhat more difficult due to its remote location. Line 121 connects Sant Elm with the nearby towns of Port d’Andratx and Andratx, from there there is a bus connection to the Estació Intermodal at Plaça Espanya in Palma with line 101. The journey takes an hour and a half in total.

➜ Timetables and more information can be found on the website of tib (Transports de les Illes Balears)

From Sant Elm onwards

The GR221 long-distance hiking trail starts in Sant Elm and leads through the entire Serra Tramuntana. The perfect starting point for a longer hike!

The GR 221 hiking route begins in Sant Elm

If you are traveling by rental car and don’t want to do much hiking, you can also incorporate Sant Elm into a short road trip and explore Port d’Andratx on the same day, for example. A short drive along the southwest coast with the towns of Paguera, Santa Ponsa or El Toro with the stylish new marina Port Adriano is also a good idea.

If you want a contrasting program after so much peace and quiet, you can also end the day nearby in Magaluf, the epicentre of party-loving Brits – anything is possible on Mallorca!

* * *

You can find even more inspiration for Mallorca here:

02/07/2021
Best Things to Do in Valldemossa, Mallorca

Valldemossa is one of the most beautiful places on Mallorca. The small alleyways with their colorful planted doors are a popular photo motif and a must-see on a trip to the Serra Tramuntana with its pretty villages. In this article, I’ll tell you what else you shouldn’t miss out on in Valldemossa!

Valldemossa Charterhouse

The Valldemossa Charterhouse is the central point of the village. Behind the Charterhouse is a small, very well-kept garden, which is particularly inviting in summer. The charterhouse in Valldemossa was built and used as the summer residence of the King of Mallorca (no, not Jürgen Drews – Mallorca really was once an independent kingdom) at the beginning of the 14th century. The Charterhouse can also be visited from the inside for an entrance fee.

Save time: You can buy your ticket to the Kartause online here*.

Visible from afar: The extravagant tower of the Valldemossa Charterhouse on Mallorca.

Are you planning a trip to Mallorca?
➜ Find even more information about Mallorca here

Chopin & Valldemossa

Even the famous composer Frédéric Chopin once stayed here, in the winter of 1838, together with his lover George Sand. However, due to his progressive tuberculosis, Chopin had to leave Mallorca and Valldemossa after just one winter. The Valldemossa Charterhouse, or Cartuja in Spanish, and the entire monastery complex, where Chopin lived, are very well maintained and well worth a visit!

There is even a street named after Valldemossa’s most famous resident.

The beautiful alleys of Mallorca

Many people will know Valldemossa from pictures of Mallorca without realizing it: Here you can take wonderful pictures of the small picturesque alleyways, which are often beautifully decorated in summer due to the many festivities.

Typical for Valldemossa: the rough stone facades of the houses are decorated with many small flower pots.

The best way to get to Valldemossa is by car:
➜ Here you’ll find the best car rental deals for cruising around the island*

The typical Mallorcan architecture with heavy stones and rustic wooden doors can be found everywhere. The facades of the houses are often hung with Mediterranean terracotta pots around the doors and are beautifully planted.

The many small artists’ studios dotted around the village are also wonderful photo motifs and very instagrammable.

Many Valldemossa residents go to great lengths to plant their houses.

Local specialty: The best cocas de patata on Mallorca

You should definitely try one of the cocas de patata in Valldemossa, a sweet, fluffy yeast roll made from potato flour, which is dusted with plenty of powdered sugar after baking. If you’re lucky, you’ll still be able to get slightly warm cocas fresh from the oven in the bakeries, as cocas are sold throughout the day in the high season and are therefore baked again and again. A delicious sweet with coffee, popular all over the island, but the original simply comes from Valldemossa. The best way to enjoy a coca is with a cool horchata, a kind of cold almond milk smoothie. Don’t miss it!

The best spot with authentic Mallorcan charm—a true classic: Pasteleria Ca’n Molinas
When the weather is nice, there’s no better place to sit than under the lemon and orange trees in the courtyard!

In Valldemossa you eat cocas de patata! Nowhere on Mallorca do they taste better than here.

Looking for peace and relaxation in the mountains of Mallorca?
The area around Valldemossa is perfect for that!
➜ Find the perfect place to stay in and around Valldemossa here

Eating and drinking in Valldemossa

In addition to the bakeries on the main street that serve fresh cocas, I can recommend the following locations in Valldemossa:

Cappuccino – the classic on Mallorca is also a must in Valldemossa! See and be seen with a view of the Charterhouse!
Gelato Mossa – ice cream parlor right next to the Charterhouse. Yes, the ice cream is more expensive here, but good ice cream is expensive on Mallorca and even more so in Valldemossa. I can still only recommend it!
Aromas – a little more hidden and away from the hustle and bustle, but good food and an atmospheric courtyard!

The atmosphere at Aromas in Valldemossa is particularly cozy.

Tips for a visit to Valldemossa

Arrival by car

Valldemossa can be easily visited on a day trip with a rental car along the Tramuntana mountains. Please note: the winding roads on Mallorca are quite twisty, so it’s not for anxious or impatient drivers! Especially when the roads get crowded in summer and some people like to push, get overconfident or drive at a snail’s pace out of sheer fright. But the view is so beautiful – I can never get enough of it, even though I’ve driven the route so many times.

Arrival with a tour

If you don’t feel comfortable driving your rental car along that route, you can also join a guided tour. The downside: you’re completely tied down. There’s so much to discover in this part of Mallorca in particular. It’s much more convenient to be able to stop wherever you want and plan the trip yourself.

On a tour, however, you can travel at a relaxed pace—especially if you don’t like riding challenging routes in unfamiliar areas.

➜ Book the bus tour from the south of Mallorca to Port de Soller and Valldemossa* here

Arrival by public transportation

Public transport is also an alternative: bus line 203 connects Palma with Valldemossa and Port de Soller. However, it doesn’t run that often (usually only every 60-90 minutes), so you should plan well in advance.

➜ Timetables, prices & information for line 203: Port de Soller – Valldemossa – Palma

Parking in Valldemossa

Finding a parking space in Valldemossa is not easy, especially in summer. It is best to leave your car in one of the public parking lots along the main road. You only have to cross the road to get to the old town. At the height of summer and at weekends it can get really busy, so keep your nerve and give up hope of finding a free parking space! Valldemossa is very popular!

20/05/2019
Sa Calobra & Torrent de Pareis: Day trip on Mallorca

It is essential to arrive in Sa Calobra before 10 a.m., says every guide book, so that you don’t find yourself in the middle of the big avalanche of coaches. Be sure to go again after 3 pm, otherwise you will experience the same thing back. Sa Calobra and the famous gorge Torrent de Pareis are well visited. All the more so in high summer, when Mallorca is bursting at the seams. Nevertheless, the Torrent de Pareis is always worth a trip during a Mallorca road trip! If you don’t want to drive, save yourself the journey through the Tramuntana and start with a boat trip from Port de Sóller to the bay of Sa Calobra.

In Sa Calobra there are a few restaurants, but relatively expensive and rather tourist traps. But the view is awesome!

Sa Calobra & the Torrent de Pareis: A day trip in Mallorca

On an island like Mallorca, the beach in Sa Calobra Bay isn’t particularly noteworthy: the pebbles make a day at the beach there a bit uncomfortable. But that’s not why people come here! The Torrent de Pareis is a torrential stream that flows right here through a deep gorge from the Tramuntana Mountains into the sea. However, this only happens during the colder and rainier seasons—in the summer, the Torrent de Pareis runs dry. Then you can also hike through the Torrent de Pareis gorge. However, you’ll need good hiking gear and a guide who knows the area well!

Tip: On my Mallorca blog you can find even more travel inspiration for my absolute favorite island!

Torrent de Pareis: Hiking tours and concerts

The spacious area at the end of Torrent de Pareis often hosts concerts in the summer, with shuttle service to Palma. The sound: Bose couldn’t do it better. Without a concert, the Torrent de Pareis is rather inconspicuous. If you arrive without hiking equipment and a local guide, the more exciting part of the gorge (where it gets narrow and steep and bumpy) is impassable. So there you are, standing on heated pebbles, between rocks and what feels like two hundred and fifty busloads of tourists from all over the world, who actually don’t know what they’re supposed to find so great about a parched spot between the mountains.

Tip: If you want to explore Torrent de Pareis, don’t do it without a guide!

Torrent de Pareis also often hosts open-air events.

And yet, it’s spectacular. Not only the gorge Torrent de Pareis, not only Sa Calobra and not even the turquoise blue water in the Cala de Sa Calobra.

Many serpentines and the tie knot of Mallorca

The real adventure is getting there! Coming by car from Inca, you shimmy through various mountain villages, up, down, up, down, and winding through dense forest. Until your foot cramps on the clutch from constantly shifting up and down. Until you get dizzy from the many curves and long for at least twenty meters of dead straight asphalt. Actually, that would be enough excitement, but then the last wild descent begins.

What you need for your Mallorca road trip:
➜ You can find cheap rental cars here!

In hairpin curves it goes up the last hill and then …steeply downhill. In curves, tight, tightest. No guardrails. Slopes into the deep void. No view of what’s waiting around the bend. Nothing? Oncoming traffic? A giant tour bus that fills the entire width of the street?

The view during the drive to Sa Calobra: The Tramuntana Mountains in Mallorca.

Rough and adventurous: the northeast coast of Mallorca.

Sa Calobra: The most winding approach to Mallorca

The serpentine road to Sa Calobra is not fun for every driver. But an adventure it is all the same! And once down in Sa Calobra, the Torrent de Pareis looks a lot more spectacular. You suddenly feel tiny in the face of the huge gorge.

Only something for safe drivers: The serpentines down to the Torrent de Pareis have it in themselves!

No shade, giant pebbles – but the huge rocks on the right and left make the beach of Sa Calobra unique

The winding road above is really the only way to get to Sa Calobra by land. However, if you are not so adventurous, you can take a boat from Soller. Round trip costs 30 euros together.

Without car to Sa Calobra

By Bus

If you don’t dare to go down to Sa Calobra by car, then join a bus tour! There are some operators who include Sa Calobra in really nice day trips and where you get to know many other beautiful corners of the island in just one day.

This tour, for example, also includes a ride on the legendary Red Lightning, the historic wooden train from Palma to Sóller! This ticket alone normally costs 18 euros, so the price of the tour is worth it!

Book here a day trip across the island from Palma via Sóller to Sa Calobra and further*

By boat

There are also some organized boat tours that go to the bay of Sa Calobra from surrounding ports. There you also have the opportunity to see the Torrent de Pareis during a short stay.

➜ Timetable & prices to Sa Calobra from Port de Sóller

From Soller you can take a boat to Sa Calobra.

08/08/2016
Visiting the Farmer’s Market in Esporles, Mallorca

Esporles is a charming little village tucked at the foot of the stunning Serra Tramuntana. It offers a genuinely authentic Mallorca experience! Not many tourists venture here, which makes it all the more special. Hopefully, you’ll be lucky enough to visit during a market day in Esporles. That’s a wonderful opportunity to immerse yourself in the true essence of Mallorcan village life and enjoy the vibrant local atmosphere.

Colorful: The market in Esporles.

Esporles in Mallorca: The farmer’s market

A brief visit to one of the many markets on Mallorca is enough to realize that foodies get their money’s worth here. Every village, no matter how small, has its own market during the week. Often, you will find stands from local vendors who sell products from their own finca.

The weekly market in Esporles is one of the most beautiful on the island.

Typical: The spicy Sobrassada.

Mallorcan cuisine features ingredients like stockfish and pickled olives.

The fertile Mallorcan soil combined with the nearly always shining sun creates ideal growing conditions. Lemon and orange trees are found throughout the island, along with all other essentials for a healthy Mediterranean diet: olives, juicy tomatoes, dried fruits, fresh fish, and huge watermelons. The list seems endless!

Click here for more Mallorca travel inspiration

Esporles: The market as a village event

Market day is always a special occasion in remote villages. Not only can you find much fresher fruits and vegetables than at the local supermarket, but it’s also a wonderful opportunity to catch up on the latest village gossip—or simply enjoy a relaxed chat with your neighbors over a lovely café con leche. It’s such a warm and friendly way to connect, especially for the older villagers who might not get many chances to leave the village.

Also interesting: Mallorca’s largest flea market

When is market day in Esporles? When is market in Mallorca?

In Mallorca, every day is market day. There’s always some small village that’s holding a market. Large markets, like the one on Sundays in Santa Maria, are popular because of their size and variety, but it’s the small markets, like this one on Saturdays in Esporles, that are especially charming.

A quick overview of all markets in Mallorca

I really enjoy the smaller markets in the countryside the most; however, if you’re just visiting the capital, Palma, for a few days, you’ll also discover many wonderful opportunities to shop for authentic Mallorcan products there.

Here you’ll find the best markets in Palma

Everything fresh from the farmer: from cheese to vegetables there is a wide choice in Esporles.

22/08/2015

This site is registered on wpml.org as a development site. Switch to a production site key to remove this banner.