I developed a fondness for Jorge Amado in Paraty! Not the writer, but the cocktail. (I’ll tell you what the author Jorge Amado is all about afterwards). Few drinks embody the taste of summer, the sea and palm trees so much. If you like caipirinha anyway, you’ll love Jorge Amado as a caipirinha alternative. And so that you too can bring a little bit of Brazil home with you, I have brought you the recipe from Paraty.
With a Jorge Amado in your hand, it’s easier to dream of Paraty.
Tips for a good Jorge Amado
The right sugar
I don’t know why this misconception is still so widespread, but a caipirinha isn’t made with brown sugar. The same goes for the Jorge Amado, which is basically just a variation of the caipirinha. In Brazil, they don’t use brown sugar in caipirinhas!
Conventional white sugar is used, but this is typically always obtained from sugar cane and has a slightly different taste to our household sugar. However, white cane sugar is now also very easy to find here, e.g. at dm or in organic markets. By the way, sugar is not spared: Jorge Amado as well as “normal” Caipirinha are drunk super sweet in Brazil!
The right passion fruit
Brazilian passion fruit is really hard to find in Germany! Unfortunately for me, because I’m really addicted to it. Passion fruit in Brazil is much larger, elongated, yellow, relatively sour and very intense. If you eat too much passion fruit, you will get tired quite quickly, as it has a sleep-inducing effect.
In our latitudes you are more likely to find the small purple ones, if at all. These have less flesh, so you will need to use two fruits for the recipe above.
The main ingredient: Gabriela
Gabriela is the signature cachaça from Paraty. Unlike conventional sugar cane schnapps, Gabriela is also infused with cinnamon and cloves, which makes Jorge Amado particularly aromatic.
Many discos around Paraty produce Gabriela, like here at Pedra Branca.
Outside of Paraty, gabriela is rarely available in stores in Brazil (or here), but thanks to the internet you can have the main ingredient for the Jorge Amado delivered directly to your home!
Jorge Amado: Cocktail from Paraty, Brazil
Wooden mortar
1 lime
1 yellow passion fruit ((if you use purple ones, use two!))
4 cl Gabriela
2 tsp white cane sugar
Crushed ice
Dice the limes and pour into a large caipirinha glass.
Halve the passion fruit, place the flesh in the glass and add the sugar.
Pour over the gabriela.
Crush with a wooden mortar until the juice comes out of the lime pieces.
Fill the glass completely with ice and stir with a long cocktail stick or stirring spoon. Cheers!
Drinks
Brazilian
Cocktail
You can find out more about Paraty, its beautiful old town and dreamlike surroundings with secluded islands and waterfalls in the middle of the jungle here:
Paraty is world-famous for its picturesque old town!
The story behind Jorge Amado
Jorge Amado is one of Brazil’s most important authors. His works are often set in Bahia, are very passionate and deal with social injustice and the Brazilian attitude to life. The book Gabriela like Cinnamon and Cloves* was filmed in Paraty decades ago. Paraty used to be an important center of sugar cane cultivation and still has many disceries today. This is how the special Cachaça Gabriela, a sugar cane schnapps with cinnamon and cloves, was created.
Paraty is located between Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, nestled in the thick foliage of the Mata Atlântica: a small tropical paradise with a rich historical charm! Quite a few travelers to Brazil simply end up staying in Paraty. The surrounding area offers everything from stunning beaches to jungle adventures among waterfalls and mountain streams—and Paraty’s historic district is magically beautiful!
Romantic and steeped in history: Paraty’s Old Town
Paraty: Relaxation with an Exotic Colonial Flair
Despite the tourism, the Old Town has retained its laid-back character. Time seems to stand still. In the picturesque Old Town, you feel as if you’ve been transported back a hundred years to old Brazil under Portuguese colonial rule.
Are you looking for more information about Brazil? As someone who is half-Brazilian, I’m sure I have a few special tips for you: All articles about Brazil
Praça da Matriz is the heart of the Old Town.Today, horse-drawn carriages carry tourists along the cobblestone streets.
Horse-drawn carriages rattle leisurely over the huge cobblestones (you can leave your high heels at home!) and now take tourists on sightseeing tours. Nearly the entire historic center of Paraty is very well preserved; Paraty has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since the mid-1950s.
Many of the once-neglected houses have been purchased and restored by wealthy Brazilian businesspeople and public figures. One of these houses is even home to a descendant of Brazil’s last emperor, Dom Pedro II, who lives there right in the heart of the neighborhood, without any pomp or ceremony.
Tip: Every morning, a free walking tour departs from Praça da Matriz and takes you to all the major sights in the Old Town. (Portuguese & English)
There are small bars and restaurants on every corner.
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Nightlife & Shopping in Paraty
In the evening, the otherwise tranquil old town comes to life: shops showcase truly beautiful souvenirs; no two stores are alike, and there are so many handmade, original items—from plates to hammocks—that you can’t get enough of them. Paraty has style—no question about it.
Livraria das Marés – A small bookstore with a curated selection, featuring many coffee-table books about Paraty and Rio, as well as English-language literature and a cozy café in the backyard. An insider’s tip!
Shopping: Handmade hammocks.
Food & Drink in Paraty
A good meal and a little cervejinha (beer) are a must in Brazil in the evening! Around Praça da Matriz, the central market square in the Old Town, you’ll find many bars and restaurants, but there are also plenty of interesting spots in the cozy side streets. Most venues feature live music every evening; the atmosphere is cheerfully Brazilian and infectious—you can really let loose almost anywhere here.
Café Paraty | Very popular—you’ll have to wait during peak hours, but the tropical atmosphere with laid-back live music makes it worth it! Brazilian cuisine. Recommendation: Picanha (beef steak cut in a special way).
Frida y Diego | A small taqueria with live music in the evening, away from the hustle and bustle of the Old Town, serving Mexican cuisine.
Sabor da Terra | A down-to-earth self-service restaurant serving delicious Brazilian cuisine. Self-service restaurants are very popular in Brazil and offer visitors a great opportunity to sample a variety of typical Brazilian dishes.
Manuê Sucos | It’s technically a juice bar, but it’s open until the evening and offers plenty of fresh snacks like açaí or pão na chapa (toasted rolls with cheese). Good and affordable. It could be the perfect place to work for digital nomads who want to get some work done while on the go—though laptops aren’t allowed.
The following applies to all venues: When there is live music, it is customary to charge a cover charge of 10 to 15 R$ (3–4€) per person.
The historic district of Paraty is full of colorful details.
If you’re feeling a little hungry, there are plenty of street stalls offering a wide variety of dishes, from tapioca (pancakes made from cassava flour) to pasteis (fried pastries). Be sure to stop by one of the many cake carts scattered throughout the old town: Brazilians are true masters of sweets! Try a cocada (fresh, sugared shredded coconut) or a bolo de tapioca: this snow-white, sticky mixture made from cassava flour tastes more like pudding at first, but the sugared condensed milk poured fresh over it makes the dessert perfect.
There’s one name you need to remember: Jorge Amado!
You absolutely have to try a Jorge Amado here—you’ll find it in every bar! Paraty’s signature cocktail tastes like a sweet caipirinha: instead of cachaça, the sugarcane spirit, it uses Gabriela liqueur, which is infused with cloves and cinnamon (cravo e canela). It’s no coincidence: Jorge Amado is one of Brazil’s most famous authors, and his novel *Gabriela, Cloves and Cinnamon* was adapted into a film right here in Paraty. You don’t have to like his books—but after five days in Paraty, I was hooked on Jorge Amado!
But Paraty is so much more than just culture and history: there are so many different places to explore around the town, from the deepest jungle to secluded islands! That’s why most tourists spend their days exploring the area around Paraty. I’ve put together a list of the most beautiful spots for you here!
Trindade
There is a beach in Paraty itself, but the beaches in Trindade are even more beautiful! You can easily get there on your own: A bus leaves for Trindade every hour from the central bus station (Rodoviária). (One-way fare: 5 R$, approx. 1.20€, pay on the bus, get off at the last stop).
Whether you’re looking for peace and quiet or a party atmosphere, Trindade has something for everyone. At Praia dos Ranchos, you’ll find plenty of bars and restaurants. There, you can use the umbrellas and chairs if you order something at one of the nearby establishments. It’s a typically lively Brazilian spot with lots of music.
There are also livelier beaches in Trindade.Fresh fish: It’s never as delicious as it is by the sea.
Follow a small path to reach Praia do Meio. Restaurants and beach vendors are not allowed here, as this beach is part of the surrounding nature reserve. The beach is relatively spacious, and the huge rocks are very impressive.
Nature Reserve: Praia do Meio in Trindade.
Waterfalls Around Paraty
There are plenty of waterfalls in the densely forested mountains around Paraty. One of them is particularly impressive and is simply called Tobogã . In Portuguese, that means “water slide,” and once you’re there, it becomes clear why: on a huge, slippery rock, you can plunge down the waterfall like a killer slide. If that’s too dangerous for you (accidents aren’t uncommon here), it’s best to just watch the local kids, who’ve already perfected their daring stunts—my jaw dropped.
At Poço do Tarzan (Tarzan’s Pond) further up, you can safely wade into the water and feel a little like Tarzan taking a dip. Just remember, though, that you’re in the middle of the jungle: don’t forget your bug spray!
Swimming like Tarzan: The waterfalls around Paraty are breathtaking.
Right next to the Vila Verde restaurant, guests will find one of the most beautiful swimming spots: Here, you can take a dip in a cool mountain stream, far away from the hustle and bustle! The water may be cold, but it’s crystal clear—pure nature! If you’re visiting the restaurant as part of an outing, you don’t have to eat there—you can just relax and enjoy nature!
All kinds of exotic plants grow in the Vila Verde garden.Perfect for a cool refreshment during the hot temperatures of the Brazilian high summer.
The best way to visit these places is on a guided jeep tour! I recommend Paraty Tours—the organization was great, and their Land Rover jeeps were nicer than the competition’s, whose passengers had to sit in stuffy cars 🙂
(Don’t let the reviews get to you—during our long lunch break, we just relaxed, floating down the mountain stream and enjoying our picnic!)
By Boat Around Paraty
You definitely shouldn’t miss a boat trip either! For one thing, you’ll get to meet Brazilians on vacation (spoiler: they’re even more exuberant than usual!), and for another, you’ll get to see the beautiful islands around Paraty. If you choose a “Passeio de escuna,” it’s a larger boat, usually with a full kitchen and bar on board.
Turquoise-blue water & sunshine: You can reach the islands in Paraty Bay by taking a boat tour.
If you get there early, you’ll get the best spots. You’re welcome to bring your own food, but it’s not absolutely necessary. The trip lasts about 4–5 hours; we’ll stop at beaches, there will be opportunities to swim (I love jumping right into the water from the boat), and plenty of music. And, of course, Jorge Amado!
The swimming spots are great for snorkeling. However, equipment is only available on board for a fee, and it’s not that great, so it’s better to bring your own if you want to snorkel!
Where to Stay in Paraty
Location is everything in Paraty! The best spots are actually near the historic center! There, you’ll enjoy an idyllic stay right in the heart of it all. Praia do Pontal, just a few minutes’ walk from the center, is also a great place to stay—and it comes with that laid-back beach vibe to boot.
It’s often cheaper to stay outside the city, but everything interesting is farther away, and the newer neighborhoods aren’t necessarily that pretty either. So it’s worth spending a little more!
How do you get to Paraty?
Traveling by Bus
Paraty is located between Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo; you can reach both cities by intercity bus. Paraty does not have a commercial airport. The trip takes about 4 hours in either direction, and a one-way ticket costs around 80 R$ (approx. 20 €). The buses are comfortable, but they often don’t have Wi-Fi or USB charging ports.
Bus Station in Paraty
The bus station in Paraty is located relatively centrally in the city, and you can reach many accommodations on foot from there. If you have a lot of luggage or need to go farther away, just take a taxi from the taxi stand—it won’t cost an arm and a leg. Uber isn’t available in Paraty (yet).
Buying Bus Tickets in Brazil
In Brazil, you can always buy tickets directly at the bus stations. It’s best to take care of your tickets a little in advance. Intercity buses are a popular mode of transportation in Brazil, and especially for destinations like Paraty, they can get quite crowded during peak travel season or on weekends.
But so you don’t have to make a special trip to the station (in Rio, for example, the Rodoviária/bus station is relatively far from downtown), I recommend buying your tickets online at Clickbus*. You can often get an additional discount there.
Clickbus* is the largest ticket platform in Brazil, and most bus companies are listed there. (Note: With some bus companies, you have to exchange your online tickets at the ticket counter.)
The bus station is centrally located in Paraty, near the Old Town.
Where to go next from Paraty?
Paraty, for example, is a popular destination from Rio de Janeiro. On the way there, you can also stop at the beach resort of Angra dos Reis or take a ferry to Ilha Grande —a paradise for nature lovers.
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Helpful Tips
Avoid the peak travel season between Christmas and Carnival: Prices go up and accommodation options become scarce!
On the topic of safety: While it’s generally a good idea to be cautious here as well, Paraty is actually a very laid-back place. I never felt unsafe at any point—quite the opposite, in fact.
Don’t forget mosquito repellent—the strong kind with DEET—if mosquitoes love you as much as they love me! You can find good repellents at any local pharmacy.
In Brazilian Portuguese, “Paraty” is pronounced “Pa-ra-tschie” 😉
Búzios is actually called Armação dos Búzios, but among Brazilians the popular resort is simply called Búzios. There you will find some of the most beautiful beaches in Brazil! When the weather is nice, many Cariocas from Rio de Janeiro are drawn here.
So if you’re ever in Rio, I highly recommend a trip to Buziós! In only three and a half hours by car you can reach unforgettable dream beaches. I’ll show you the best locations, sights and give you some tips for a great vacation in Brazil!
Fishing boats on the Orla of Buzíos
Armação dos Búzios: Beaches & Brazilian Lifestyle
Búzios is located on a peninsula and has more than 20 beaches, each more beautiful and unique than the other. While the water on the beaches in the north is calmer and warmer, the beaches in the south are wider, the water temperature is colder and the waves are rougher. Depending on your mood, you can choose busy and less busy beaches: On some beaches one beach hut follows the other, on others you are relatively alone.
Praia de Geribá
One of the wilder mega beaches in Buzíos. Relatively natural and wide, but with many small beach stalls that rent umbrellas and chairs and sell small snacks. In the high season very well visited to full, but also the perfect opportunity to experience original Brazilian beach life. The water here is a bit colder, the waves higher, but the beach falls relatively shallow into the water, so even children and non-swimmers can have fun here.
Praia de Manguinhos
Very quiet, with some nice bars on one side, nothing but a few fishing boats on the other. If you are looking for total peace and quiet, this is the place for you! Here, by the way, you can also stand-up paddle well and with luck you can even see a few large sea turtles swimming past from the board! Otherwise, the water is not suitable for swimming in all places; there are probably also a few sewage land here, but that is unfortunately not uncommon in Brazil.
For those who like it quieter, Praia de Manguinhos is the place to be.
Rua das Pedras
It’s all night on the Rua das Pedras! Between chic boutiques and simple restaurants, everything squeezes on the famous pedestrian street in the center of the former village. You stroll, walk, have dinner or just a little drink – but the evening trip to Rua das Pedras is a must.
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Rua das Pedras is rarely this empty in the evening. After sunset life is raging here!
The Orla in Búzios and Brigitte Bardot
At the end of Rua das Pedras you reach Orla, the beach promenade of Armação dos Búzios. Despite the many tourists (especially in the high season between Christmas and Carnival), the atmosphere here is particularly cozy in the evenings. Small fishing boats are still anchored here in front of the narrow promenade of natural stone, the view wanders over the quiet bay. One place is always particularly busy: everyone wants to have their picture taken with the statue of Brigitte Bardot!
Until the sixties, Búzios was a really sleepy fishing village, no trace of tourism! Until Brigitte Bardot showed up here in 1964, in tow with her then-boyfriend Bob Zaguri. Fed up with the hype in Rio de Janeiro (such a world star at that time in Brazil, that was an event!) they fled to the then unknown Armação dos Búzios – the reporters after them and suddenly everybody knew Buzíos. Therefore, until today, Búzios is called the “Saint-Tropez of Brazil”. In fact, the atmosphere here is similar; to this day, the rich and famous of Rio and Brazil meet in Buzíos.
Directly on the promenade in Búzios: The restaurant La Bardot.Rather untypical for Brazil: There is even a small art house cinema, “Gran Cine Bardot”.Still a bit the romantic fishing village of yesteryear: the Orla Brigitte Bardot.
Practical tips for your stay in Búzios
Arrival | Plane, Bus, Shuttle Service & Tour
From Rio de Janeiro it is only a three and a half hour drive to Búzios. From Rio you can also book day trips by car, van or boat, but in my opinion it is not worth it.
If you have the time, organize transportation separately and spend several days in Búzios!
There are plenty of shuttle services that go directly to Búzios from Rio’s Galeao International Airport or from neighborhoods like Copacabana or Ipanema.
Just as convenient (and cheaper), however, are the intercity buses that depart either from Rio de Janeiro’s central bus station (Rodoviária) or from Galeão Airport. There is no airport for scheduled flights in Búzios.
From Búzios you can also reach the beaches of Arraial d’Ajuda by day trips.
Best time to travel | May to August
I was in Búzios in January, right in the middle of Brazil’s peak tourist season. However, trips in the low season, e.g. from May to August, are more recommended. Then the prices are lower, the weather is dry and warm. During the peak tourist season from Christmas to Carnival, prices rise, accommodations are often fully booked, beaches and the town itself are crowded. In addition, there can be rainy days every now and then due to the rainy season.
Accommodation in Búzios
Tip: Look for a small pousada (guesthouse). Pousadas are usually very small, family run and communicative. There you always quickly find a connection, even among the other guests. Most of them also offer breakfast, usually very rich with fresh typical fruits like papayas, pineapples or watermelons and many sweet treats, often homemade.
There are pousadas for every budget, from simple to luxurious. I can recommend the Blanca Hostel*(don’t be put off by the “hostel”, there are also nice, simple double rooms), very close to Praia do Geribá and with bus or Uber you are quickly in the center.
As in Rio, Uber is always a good and safe choice to get from point A to point B. However, public buses also run regularly and are cheaper. Tickets are available on the bus. In addition, so-called vans, privately organized lines, stop at the bus stops, but you can take them without any problems. Payment is made directly to the driver when boarding or disembarking.
A walk along the Orla River in Buzíos is a must, from there many small boats also depart for individual tours.
Security | Crime & Women traveling alone
Even though Búzios is very close to Rio, you will quickly notice that the mood regarding public safety is quite different here. In Rio you are often warned of somewhat unsafe corners, general attention is in order.
In Búzios, however, the situation is much more relaxed, there is little sign of crime and after a visit to Rio, Búzios is a real boon in this respect.
Women traveling alone can move around here (and, in my opinion, the rest of Brazil) without any problems and do not have to take any different precautions than men, couples or friends traveling together.
Many Brazilians vacation in Buzíos with the entire family or you go here in a large group of friends: be just as open-minded and you’ll make friends right away! Brazilians are very communicative, open and like to accept strangers into their group!
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