The Happy Jetlagger

Author: Tatiana

The Amazing Night Market in Phuket Old Town

I ended up stranded in Phuket—or rather, Phuket Town—unexpectedly during my trip to Thailand. Phuket is known for its beaches, package tours, and the Thailand you see in travel brochures. But after a long day of traveling and endless arguments with taxi drivers over far too expensive fares, I’d lost all interest in any major adventures. Lucky me!

It’s rare to find something like the Old Town of Phuket in Thailand: a mix of Chinese and Portuguese colonial flair.

I hadn’t actually planned to stay in Phuket, but rather to take the ferry directly to Koh Lanta—though the ferry for that day had already left. So, at the next available opportunity, I ended up near the pier in Phuket Old Town. There I was—right in the middle of Phuket’s wonderful Old Town, which I would never have discovered if everything had gone according to plan. Phuket Town was a surprise and completely different from what I’d heard about Phuket up to that point.

The red lanterns provide the Chinese touch in Phuket town.

Phuket Old Town: A mixture of China and Portugal

Phuket used to be a trading and transshipment hub for both the Chinese and the Portuguese —which is why many buildings in the Old Town still bear the hallmarks of this unusual combination.

Many buildings from that era still stand, and there has been a great deal of modernization and restoration, especially in recent years, which adds greatly to the charm of Phuket Town.

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Even on rainy days, Phuket’s Old Town is a worthwhile destination: Many small, quirky cafés and shops invite you to pop in, and the overall atmosphere is young and creative. And the wonderful pastel-colored building facades do the rest, making it impossible to stop gazing and marveling.

Sunday Walking Street Market in Phuket Old Town

I was lucky to end up in Phuket Town on a Sunday, because that’s when the Sunday Walking Street Market takes place, featuring all kinds of street food stalls and the most delicious treats. I just love street food in Thailand!

For me, this is the best chance to try Thai cuisine. You often get small portions, too. That way, you can spend the whole evening strolling through a night market and working your way from one street food stall to the next.

Street Food & Live Music

At the night market in Phuket Town—the Sunday Walking Street Market—there’s not only street food but also plenty of entertainment! So you can simply stroll from stall to stall or just listen to the live music: there’s a small stage set up right in the middle of the market.

I didn’t see that many Western tourists either—actually, there were more Thai people around. So the market seems to be (still) a real hidden gem! The room at Memory at On On turned out to be a total stroke of luck—it was right around the corner! I highly recommend it, especially if you’re just passing through on your way to Koh Lanta, for example, or island-hopping through the Andaman Sea.

Staying at The Memory at On On in Phuket Old Town

Information & Address

The market is held every Sunday from 4:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. on Thalang Road in Phuket Old Town. The name “Lard Yai” means “big market” and comes from the Talat Yai district.

Starting around 3:00 p.m., the entire street is closed to cars, and the vendors begin setting up their stalls. The stalls are set up in the middle of the street, leaving a narrow path on both the left and right for pedestrians. If you come in the afternoon, you can still take your time exploring the charming side streets and shophouses. Things get significantly busier starting around 7 p.m.

You should plan on spending one to two hours exploring the entire length of Thalang Road, plus a detour into the side streets—or even longer if you stop for meals. Most of the shophouses are open as usual during the market.

15/07/2015
Ses Salines: The Salt Pans in Mallorca

When you travel a lot, you develop the most abstruse habits. This also affects my shopping habits. If you’re sitting in the same city for the twenty-third time and have either seen just about everything there is to see or have no desire to see anything at all, you’ll have to fill your day with something else.

Then there are the Swedish cinnamon rolls that have to be brought from the one and only trusted bakery (and only there!) in Stockholm, or the hand-rolled fresh goat cheese ravioli from Mamma Lucia’s pasta shop (and only there!) in Turin, or the summer wardrobe, which is pieced together bit by bit from favorite clothing stores around the world. And in Es Trenc, it always has to be salt!

Salt from Es Trenc: Genuine from Mallorca!

Well, and when I need salt again, I always get it from Mallorca. Decadent, yes, but that’s the way it is. White bread, butter and a little Flor de Sal from Es Trenc crumbled on top – simply delicious!

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Salt flats in Es Trenc & shopping at Flor de Sal

On the way to Es Trenc Beach are the Flor de Sal d’Es Trenc salt pans and their factory outlet, where I managed to snag a great deal. You can also buy the salt anywhere on the island if you can’t make it all the way to Es Trenc. But this is the only place where you can see the salt flats up close and relax in the cozy courtyard with a great cup of coffee.

Es Trenc: One of the most beautiful beaches of Mallorca

But you definitely shouldn’t miss Es Trenc Beach: It’s one of the most beautiful beaches on the island, and many people even compare it to beaches in the Caribbean! However, you should get there early during peak season, as parking spots nearby are very limited.

In this article you will learn the best way to get to Es Trenc and where to park: Es Trenc Guide

29/06/2015
Mallorca’s Dream Beach: Es Trenc

Every time I’m at Es Trenc, the famous beach in the South East of Mallorca, it feels like a trip to the Caribbean Sea. After an adventurous drive on a dirt road of several kilometres length, which is just a middle class car wide, but through which the oncoming traffic has to pass, one reaches the parking place of Es Trenc. Once past salt basins and through dunes that could be like this or similar ones in northern Germany, one is already dazzled by the whitest sand and light turquoise sea.

Like in the Carribeans

Days before there was unfortunately a heavy storm on the island. The mallorcan beach cleaners were not yet through when we arrived, so algae were still drifting on the beach. But it was no problem, the water was still crystal clear. As the water in Es Trenc is very salty, you feel at least as fluffy when swimming as the white sandy beach.

Es Trenc: A secret hotspot in Mallorca

Es Trenc has not been an insider tip for ages. Luckily, the whole area around the beach is a huge nature reserve, so touristic big buildings are not allowed. But also because of this Es Trenc attracts many people looking for a special beach – so an early arrival is a good idea. Best during the week, because many locals also come here on weekends. And then it gets cozy on the beach. Nevertheless: Es Trenc is simply hard to beat on Mallorca. If it gets too crowded on the beach, you can simply escape into the water until you grow webbed feet: you can walk forever into the water (great for kids) and at some point it gets quieter. And in midsummer the water gets so warm that you don’t want to get out anyway.

How to get to Es Trenc & Helpful information for your visit

Arrival best by car/rental car – arrive early in the morning.

Drive to Campos, from there follow the signs (Es Trenc/Ses Salines – this is my favourite corner – or Es Trenc/Ses Covetes).

Es Trenc is quite expensive.
The parking lot Ses Salines costs 6€ per day. (There is no free alternative, and ignore the first car park on the right! Follow the narrow dirt road to the end. Attention: Nothing for insecure rental car drivers or huge SUVs, the path is very narrow for a long time, and when oncoming traffic comes, it will be fun 🙂
On top of that there are rental fees for umbrellas and sunbeds, if desired. However, there are corners where you can set up your own beach equipment.
Food and drink is quite good in the Chiringuitos (beach bars), but here you can’t expect any gastronomic highlights or bargain prices either. I am always self-catering concerning the food and depending on my mood I get one or another cool drink at the bar.

26/06/2015
Villefranche-sur-Mer at the Côte d’Azur: Day Trip from Nice

The Côte d’Azur is undoubtedly one of those places where everything is simply beautiful. It’s no wonder it’s one of the most popular vacation destinations in France. It’s also worth checking out the smaller towns there, such as Villefranche-sur-Mer near Nice.

The perfect day trip from Nice

If you’re feeling a little fed up with Nice, you can spend a relaxing day trip here. Personally, Nice isn’t really my thing either. Somehow, it’s too much of a city, too much street noise, too much glitz, and too many pebbles for a brilliant azure Mediterranean Sea that really deserves a fine sandy beach. But Villefranche-sur-Mer is different.

Find Affordable Accommodations in Villefranche-sur-Mer

Blue like everywhere else on the Côte d’Azur: The Mediterranean Sea in front of Villefranche-sur-mer.

Villefranche-sur-mer: From Nice by train

So whenever I’m in Nice on business, I always think: Just get out of there! Because paradise is just a stone’s throw away. If you’re traveling by car, you’re mobile anyway, but on the Côte d’Azur, it’s even better to take the train.

From the steam locomotive for tourists (that’s still on my to-do list, because it’s a real experience) to the regular regional express, you’ll find many options to travel by train. The TER (a regional express train) covers all the towns on the Côte d’Azur, including picturesque views of the mountains and the sea: get on, get off, enjoy.

Villefranche-sur-Mer is just about a five-minute drive from the Riquier train station and ten minutes from Nice’s main train station. There aren’t really any major sights in Villefranche-sur-Mer—and that’s exactly why I think it’s perfect.

Villefranche-sur-mer at the Côte d’Azur

A sleepy mountain village with winding old town streets, a few cafés and a small bay with the clearest sea water, so turquoise blue it hurts your eyes.

And these colors – house facades in the most beautiful shades, in addition blue sky, the sea, the palm trees… What more do you need?

By chance, I then bursted into the middle of a beginning village festival. Which added up to the laid-back french vibe all around.

In the end, I didn’t want to leave at all—and I would have loved to keep driving in the other direction.

Boat trip to Villefranche-sur-mer and Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat from Nice

If you don’t feel like taking the train and are short on time, you can also visit Villefranche-sur-Mer by boat. There’s a one-hour boat ride from Nice where you can enjoy a beautiful view of the bays of Villefranche-sur-Mer and Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat!

Sightseeing boat from Nice to Villefranche-sur-Mer and back*

How to get to Villefranche-sur-Mer

You can reach Villefranche-sur-Mer from Nice by TER in five to ten minutes. From Nice Riquier, a one-way ticket costs Getting from Nice to Villefranche-sur-Mer is a breeze! You can hop on a TER train that gets you there in just five to ten minutes. If you’re starting from Nice Riquier, a one-way ticket is only 3 euros, and it’s easy to grab one directly from the ticket machine at the station. The Villefranche train station is perfectly located right by the water—so once you step off, you’ll be greeted by stunning views of the bay. For schedules, current prices, and the full route, just check out SNCF Connect.

17/06/2015
The Marble Mountains in Vietnam
The motorcycle trip over the Cloud Pass in Vietnam held many surprises for me. Every few kilometers we stopped. My driver told me a story, showed me the most beautiful views, and dropped me off somewhere for dinner or coffee. Then in Da Nang we suddenly stopped at an elevator that seemed to be in the middle of nowhere. It quickly became apparent that the elevator led high up on the Marble Mountains.

For me, one of the absolute insider tips in Vietnam: The Marble Mountains near Da Nang have really impressed me and were an absolute surprise on the trip!

The Marble Mountains near Da Nang: A real insider tip in Vietnam.

My driver Duc would not go up, but now bought me a ticket for me to go all the way down again. (What can now be summarized in one sentence was a quarter of an hour pantomime show due to his English and my non-existent knowledge of the Vietnamese language).

The Marble Mountains in Da Nang: An absolute surprise!

That’s all I could get out of Duc, so I just drove up. Probably the Marble Mountains were just a barren tourist trap for some marble souvenirs, I thought, and once at the top I immediately looked for the fastest way down. Not so easy – there were no signs, I didn’t even know where I had landed; and many winding paths led to a few temples and Buddha statues – but not down to Duc.

In any case, there were a few tourists around, so this must have actually been some kind of tourist attraction. One of the elderly ladies in front of the temple talked me into buying a few incense sticks, and I briefly enjoyed the silence before continuing my way down the hill.

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Thanks to the lack of signage, I wandered around a bit until a couple of Vietnamese shouted “here, here!” to me between the densely overgrown paths around the temple. So I just follow behind. (Hm. As a solo traveler I should probably work on this naive reflex – strange men call “this way” and I’ll just follow.)

The Marble Mountains in Vietnam: So many caves

The path led behind the temple and grew darker and darker. A few other tourists were also wandering around. My curiosity was piqued. Suddenly, I found myself standing in a cave that was incredibly tall and densely overgrown—and I felt like Indiana Jones. What on earth was this? I glanced briefly into the dark, dim corners of the cave. And there, sure enough, were the most beautiful Buddha statues. Just like that.

Beware of the “tour guides” in the Marble Mountains!

Unfortunately, I couldn’t quite enjoy the moment—one of the “here, here” men had already sensed his chance, ran toward me, and snatched my last few incense sticks, which I had actually wanted to keep as a souvenir. I ran after him, and what at first seemed like an attempted purse snatching was probably meant more as a guided tour of the cave.

“Here, to get lucky, get lucky!” my newly appointed cave guide lit an incense stick, pressed it into my hand, and frantically motioned for me to place it in front of a Buddha statue. “Buddha good, Buddha good!” he shouted shrilly. I didn’t have time to take a closer look, because my tour guide had already lit the next incense stick and was herding me toward the next statue.

We must have put on quite a show: the so-called “tour guide,” who was obviously high on too many stimulants, running manically with me from one dark corner to the next, and me, a naive sheep who was slowly starting to find the situation unsettling but who nevertheless decided to go along with the “tour” for the time being, running after the cave guide—who was on speed and waving my incense sticks behind him.

Gloomy atmosphere: Many of the caves in the Marble Mountains are accessible.

Fortunately, my pack of incense was soon completely torched, the “guided tour” through part of the Marble Mountains was over, and I pressed a few dong into the man’s hand, which he already held out to me as a matter of course. I was really worried whether his tip would be enough… Well, then. I’ve learned something new. So, in the Marble Mountains, you have to watch out for “tour guides” hanging around.

Caves & Altars

The way down, however, turned out to be more relaxed, suddenly huge groups of tourists appeared – I was no longer queasy now – and somehow I had half an orientation. Along the way I discovered one cave after another, large and small, sometimes so small that they could only be reached by climbing and crawling. (I recommend good shoes!) Each cave was an experience in itself!

Practical information for the Marble Mountains
- You have to pay for the elevator, the exact price slipped my mind, but it wasn’t much.
- The Marble Mountains are located centrally in Da Nang, tour operators offer various tours there.
- Be sure to pack sturdy shoes—the descent isn’t suitable for high heels, and the stone steps and caves are often slippery.
- Be wary of so-called tour guides (see above) and of vendors once you leave the mountain. As soon as you’ve climbed the last step, they’ll immediately be hot on your heels, first trying to strike up a friendly conversation and then trying to foist their marble souvenirs on you.
What else to do in Da Nang

If you’re not continuing on to Hoi An like I am, Da Nang is also a great place to stop for a while. Da Nang has a wide sandy beach with a few beach bars—perfect for a day of relaxation. Also, the Golden Bridge in Da Nang opened a while back—it’s a true work of art that you should definitely add to your itinerary. So spending a night in Da Nang is a great way to explore the area at your own pace!

Find affordable accommodations in Da Nang here
13/06/2015
Crossing the Hai Van Pass in Vietnam with an Easy Rider

The Hai Van Pass in Vietnam separates North and South Vietnam. And that’s where I had to go. When I asked at the hotel about the best way to get from Hue to Hoi An, the helpful receptionist advised me to take a motorcycle with a driver. Okay, then just with the motorcycle. If I hadn’t met two English girls in Hanoi on a boat tour through Halong Bay, who had done the same trip in the opposite direction and were totally enthusiastic about it, I probably would have decided against it.

By motorcycle over the Hai Van Pass in Vietnam: An adventure.

On a motorcycle? With 18 kilos of luggage (yes, I travel like a total girl)? The way they drive here? Never. But I couldn’t get the enthusiasm of the two girls out of my head – and I calmed myself down with the thought that they had survived the trip unharmed after all.

Hai Van Pass in Vietnam: Endless serpentines

The temptation was there. The route from Hue to Hoi An is very picturesque because it runs right over the Cloud Pass—a mountain range that cuts through the country like a swath, separating northern and southern Vietnam both geographically and meteorologically.

Alternatively, you can do the route by train, bus or private car. Train I already knew, car was too expensive alone and the bus drives dull and without panoramic view through the tunnel under the mountains.

Rent a motorcycle with driver in Vietnam: Safety & Organization

My concerns about safety proved unfounded. My driver Duc conscientiously lashed my luggage to the luggage rack, wrapped in sturdy plastic to protect it from dust, and drove over the Hai Van Pass with European prudence.

Well, the helmet I brought with me only had a chin strap, and no one knows protective clothing in Vietnam either. As a motorcyclist, you’re on the road differently at home. No matter, at 36 degrees you are anyway glad about every piece less on the body. As Duc told me afterwards, we Germans are probably the most shy about a ride with him or with the motorcycle in general: safety and such. Therefore, I would like to put here especially to your heart: If you are ever in Vietnam before the choice… Just do it!

Have you gotten a taste for it? On the Vietnam Blog, you’ll find lots more travel stories and general tips for a trip to Vietnam!

Hai Van Pass Vietnam: Adventurous switchbacks and breathtaking views

I had only booked the ride. Thought. But I have to admit, I hadn’t asked Duc again beforehand where we were actually going along and how the day was shaping up – communication in English was even worse than with the receptionist, with whom I also only understood the most important key data, so I just let it go. I would already arrive in Hoi An.

From Hue to Hoi An: Impressive landscape on the Hai Van Pass

In fact, the one-way trip to Hoi An via Hai Van Pass turned out to be a total surprise package. Duc stopped with me at the most beautiful places on the way, took photos and joked around, and I tried to piece together info about the country and its people from his scraps of English.

The mega wide beach of Da Nang.

Takeaway of the day: Just letting things happen naturally feels so good! If I’d chosen the supposedly “safe” option of taking the bus, I would have missed out on so many wonderful things. The day was absolutely beautiful and worth every cent!

Details about the motorcycle tour across the Hai Van Pass

The Hue to Hoi An motorcycle tour crosses Hai Van Pass, also called Cloud Pass. The package includes both the driver and motorcycle, allowing you to relax and simply enjoy the scenery.

Plan to spend around six to seven hours on the trip. The driving itself is shorter, but frequent stops in the mountains, Da Nang, and the Marble Mountains make it memorable. Because of these stops, it’s best to leave by 9:30 a.m. at the latest to avoid a rush at the end. Departure times are often flexible.

On a fishing boat used to live(!) whole families – up to 8 or 9 people!

You’ll be picked up right at your hotel in Hue and dropped off at your lodging in Hoi An. The driver will carefully strap your luggage onto the motorcycle, and I was able to secure my heavy backpack on the luggage rack for the entire trip. While I can’t speak to larger suitcases or bulkier bags, I suggest checking with the provider ahead of time. It’s truly incredible how much luggage can fit on a motorcycle like that!

If you still have time, you can add the Imperial Tombs in Hue to the tour for a small extra fee—they’re on the way out of town anyway.

Here you can book a similar tour with an Easy Rider

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Different option instead of a motorcycle

If you’re not keen on riding a motorcycle, consider taking the Panoramic Train instead of the bus for the scenic route over the Hai Van Pass. This allows you to enjoy the beautiful views comfortably while traveling.

Book your ticket here for the ride on the Panoramic Train over the Hai Van Pass

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The train tracks belong to the train that runs from Hanoi down to Ho Chi Minh City – fantastic view included.

05/06/2015
Hue: The Best Things to Do in the Imperial City of Vietnam

There I was in Huế after an extremely interesting train ride. Well. I have to say one thing up front: I only stayed in Huế for one day. And this despite the fact that Huế appears in various travel guides that I had devoured as a stop worth seeing on the tourist trail from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City.

Somehow I expected more, so I explored the citadel and my hotel district and then decided to travel on the very next day. I didn’t want to get involved with Huế any further. Shame on me. Getting to know the country and its people, immersing in the life of the locals off the beaten track, really getting to grips with a destination: I threw all good intentions overboard. The realization came: Sometimes you just can’t get along with a place. That’s basically it.

The Forbidden City in Hue

The citadel as a main attraction seemed to me rather uninspiring. Maybe I’m not interested enough in history after all. However, Huế didn’t bother to change that with his citadel either. Although the entrance fee of 150,000 Dong (approx. 6.20€) is very high by Vietnamese standards, the visitor can expect little.

Magnificent: Some buildings in the Forbidden City have been restored in recent years.

Well, the reconstruction after the destruction during the Vietnam War, which has probably only really taken off a few years ago, is still taking place in many corners – but there is little explanation, there are no or only few signs (and if, then in Vietnamese), so that you learn nothing about the site without an extra hired tour guide or brought guide and stumble aimlessly through the site.

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In the Forbidden City: Impressions & Pictures

In the main building I finally found a TV in a corner, on which a small simulation was running in an endless loop, how the plant looked like in imperial Vietnam – that was something. Unfortunately, the midday sun also took its toll on me – there are few shady spots and the sun was just burning down on my skull. Good that I like hot temperatures. But it was still enough for a few nice impressions.

Dressing up in the Forbidden City: Costume Rental & Photo Sessions

Those who enjoy costume games can also have their picture taken in one of the buildings in an imperial outfit with a throne and all kinds of majestic paraphernalia:

Information & entrance fees

The Citadel, which includes the Forbidden City, is located on the north bank of the Perfume River and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993. Admission costs 200,000 VND for adults; children between the ages of 7 and 12 pay 40,000 VND; and admission is free for children under 7.

The site is open daily, from 6:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. during summer and from 7:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. in winter. Keep in mind, the grounds are extensive with minimal shade between the palaces and courtyards, making midday visits very hot. Visiting early in the morning is cooler and more comfortable.

If you’re interested in visiting the Imperial Tombs, definitely consider the combo ticket—it’s a great deal! It costs 530,000 VND and gives you two days to explore both sites at your own pace. Alternatively, you might want to join a guided tour that covers both locations in just one day. The tour usually includes tickets and pickup from your hotel, making the whole experience smooth and convenient for you.

Book a day tour to the Citadel, including the Forbidden City, and the Imperial Tomb with transportation

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03/06/2015
The Best Halong Bay Cruise from Hanoi, Vietnam

No visit to Hanoi without a tour to Halong Bay, that much was already certain. Somehow, a stamp like “Unesco World Heritage Site” is a decisive indication that you will miss something worth seeing here if you skip this place when planning your trip. And if you’re ever in Vietnam, you shouldn’t miss Halong Bay with its impressive karst rocks.

2 days to Halong Bay from Hanoi

I decided on a 2-day tour to Halong Bay with an overnight stay on the boat, meals included. Since I was traveling alone, I basically got only a “half” double room—if demand had been high, I would have had to share it with someone else. In the end, though, it wasn’t a problem; another solo traveler and I each ended up with our own cabin—which, by the way, wasn’t half bad. It really felt like a cruise.

The interior of the cabin on the ship in Halong Bay: Not bad at all!

Cruising through Halong Bay in Vietnam

We set off early in the morning at 8. The bus ride in a rustic Vietnamese minivan took a good four hours, and aside from a bathroom break at a rest stop with an attached tourist trap in the form of an oversized souvenir shop, there was: nothing.

At the harbor in Halong City, we boarded a shuttle boat that took us to our junk. We settled into our rooms, and until lunchtime we were able to explore the boat and doze on the sun deck. Slowly, the ship picked up speed, and so did our group dynamic.

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No one had actually gotten the trip they’d booked; the original boat was either fully booked after all or otherwise unavailable. Instead, we got a great upgrade to this better ship—and as it quickly turned out, our stories were similar. My guess is that they’re trying to put together a suitable group rather than accommodating individual boat preferences. In our case, at any rate, the mix worked out well—a colorful group of people from all corners of the world—so the group was a good start. And slowly, the initial fog in Halong Bay began to lift.

We were lucky: The sky cleared up more and more until not a single cloud was in sight, and everyone was over the moon. We toured a stalactite cave—it was big, but if you’ve visited other caves before, you might not be quite as blown away—we went kayaking, went for a swim in the evening sun, and climbed up to a super-high lookout point.

Thanks to Alex and Maria, two well-prepared British girls with an almost inexhaustible supply of good gin, we also got the obligatory karaoke evening on the boat behind us and all together let the evening end on the sun deck under a starry sky in the mirror-smooth bay.

Is a tour to Halong Bay worth it?

Of course, you don’t sail through the entire, vast Halong Bay on this tour—but maybe that’s for the best. Environmental protection is a bit of a mixed bag in Vietnam. Dirty dishwater (I’d rather not think about the other stuff here), for example, simply flows out of the open galley door at the back of the ship and into the sea. With so many ships out there, that really adds up.

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Which tour should you choose for Halong Bay?

You don’t have to plan a trip from Hanoi very well – enough tour operators offer boat tours through Halong Bay in agency offices. Each hotel is also happy to help and acts as a tour office. Alternatively, you can book boat tours online in advance:

How many days do you need?

It’s a good idea to take the time to book a 3-day tour that includes a second night on Cat Ba Island—according to many fellow travelers I met along the way, it’s well worth it. I would strongly advise against the one-day tour. The four-hour bus ride feels like it goes on forever. Traveling this route both there and back in a single day is a real ordeal. And there’s hardly any time left to enjoy the bay itself.

Book the 2-day tour to Halong Bay here

Book the 3-day tour of Cat Ba here

03/05/2015
Riding elephants in Thailand: Everything You Need to Know

You will come across it sooner or later on a Thailand trip: Elephant riding. Almost at every corner excursions to elephant camps are offered – and clueless as I was, I participated in one. When do you ever see an elephant up close? And may even touch him? Riding an elephant? And that riding elephants should be cruelty to animals did not even occur to me. Why should you? Horses are ridden, too, and no one cries out for cruelty to animals.

Riding elephants in Thailand: this is how it really is.

But maybe I should have looked into the issue beforehand or inquired about the differences in each provider…. I just imagined how I could spend a day with elephants in Thailand, in one of the many elephant camps, feeding them, stroking them a bit and seeing such a big animal up close. And riding an elephant – although in retrospect I actually ask myself whether that really has to be done. But more on that in a moment.

So I took an organized tour, recommended by the owners of my accommodation in Chiang Mai, to an elephant camp outside Chiang Mai. I trusted the judgment of my hosts, a young, cosmopolitan Thai couple. After all, they had even invited me to lunch once without any ulterior motives because they wanted to show me a great insider tip in Chiang Mai and we simply got on well.

But as it is so often, sometimes locals have a different view on things or certain topics are not so prominent in everyday life. I asked if this tour was one of the “good” ones – yes, yes, no problem, you can bathe with the elephants there and everything is a bit touristy, but that’s the way it is.

Elephants in Thailand: life in elephant camps

Unfortunately, the first impression was already telling. The camp itself was manageable, sandwiched between mountains and neighboring farmers. Kind of funny, I thought. There you go in the middle of the wilderness, and yet there is no room for the animals there. Elephants are not exactly small, they need to run around, don’t they?

In general, I was overcome by a strange feeling of confinement when I saw the first elephant swaying strangely absent-mindedly back and forth with not exactly comfortable-looking anklets. He didn’t look happy. Okay, I put what I had seen aside for the moment. After all, there were elephants here. All free! (Haha. I thought so later.)

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Dealing with elephants as a mahout: The language of elephants

We slipped into the mahout outfits we’d rented there. A mahout is an elephant trainer who uses body language to tell the elephant what to do. Oh, how wonderful, I thought. You can make friends with an elephant just through body language. They’re really nice to the animals here in Thailand. (Haha, again.)

A mahout shows us the trunk of a young elephant.

Natural soap including bath sponge for bathing with the elephants

First, there was an introduction to elephant language. Things like “Sit,” “Down,” and “Give me your trunk.” It was absolutely adorable—until the first hook came into play: If an elephant didn’t move, one of the handlers would pull out a long, pointed metal hook, and that’s when things got rough for the elephant. I was a little shocked. Our guide was apparently already familiar with that look of disbelief from startled tourists and immediately explained that it didn’t bother the elephants at all—they don’t feel a thing because of their thick skin. I pushed the thought of animal cruelty aside.

Bathing with elephants: An unforgettable experience.

What can I say? Part of me actually wanted to believe him, because what followed was a once-in-a-lifetime experience for me: I rode barefoot, with nothing on, on an elephant! I went swimming with “my” elephant! I was so fascinated by the size and calmness of such a huge animal! It was amazing.

Elephants in Thailand: The negative side

But I just couldn’t shake those negative impressions. I felt as if I had been part of something not so nice and had played a part in causing such wonderful animals to suffer. Because something wasn’t right at that camp. Even though I’m no elephant expert, I know that happy animals look different. That metal hook that was constantly used, the anklets, the sad elephant eyes, the abraded skin….

And do you really have to be right on an animal’s neck just because you want to ride it for a few meters? For those in my group who didn’t want to ride the elephant without any support, a rickety metal chair was strapped onto the elephant’s back—a contraption that didn’t exactly look comfortable for the elephant either. Later, I found out that these chairs cause serious injuries to the elephants.

How can I see elephants in Thailand without a guilty conscience?

I would not want to miss this experience, yet my memory of this day will also always be associated with shame. I would advise anyone not to be as foolish and ignorant as I was and go on a trip like that. There are said to be elephant camps that take much better care of their elephants.

You don’t ride the elephants there either—but then again, there’s no need to. You won’t find that terrible catch either; at least, it isn’t obviously used. And yet you can still enjoy being up close to these amazing animals!

How to find “good” elephant camps in Thailand

“Good” Elephant camps, however, are hard to find. Because meanwhile also the operators know that ever more tourists insist on a kind-fair attitude – and the black sheep under the elephant camps fib quite beautifully and arrange superficially total animal love.

Therefore, do not be impressed by low prices! In these camps, less is invested in the animals, and even though people don’t ride them there, they are still marketed as a tourist attraction and are sometimes secretly kept in check with hooks and other devices.

The Elephant Retirement Park is very well known in the area near Chiang Mai. There, visitors don’t ride the elephants; instead, they get to experience them in a natural, caring environment.

Book a trip to the Elephant Retirement Park* here

03/04/2015
What to Do in Gdansk in Winter

Gdańsk’s Old Town is arguably one of the most beautiful medieval-style city centers in Poland—and it has undergone extensive restoration in recent years. The narrow patrician houses lining the Old Town’s main street, Langgasse or Lange Gasse (Ulica Dluga), bear witness to Gdańsk’s former splendor.

Is Gdansk worth a visit in winter?

In winter, the old town of Gdansk is often deserted. This is in stark contrast to summer, when crowds of tourists push their way through the streets. In addition, it is usually freezing cold – not for the faint-hearted. But the atmosphere is unique. You just need to wrap up well.

Winter in Gdansk: beautiful even in cold temperatures

Everything lies dormant in winter slumber, and a chill is in the air everywhere—a very special atmosphere takes hold. After all, Gdańsk lies almost on the Baltic Sea, in the very north of Poland; the cold wind whistles past your ears everywhere you go. If you walk a bit outside the Old Town, the surroundings become even rougher, but also more interesting. From old warships in the harbor basin to gray tenement buildings—Gdańsk has its beautiful sides even in winter.

Find out more about Poland here:
Travel reports & tips for Poland

How to get to Gdansk

There are numerous flight connections to Gdansk. The airport is also close to the city center and well connected by public transport.

Depending on which part of Germany you’re coming from, you might also want to consider taking a long-distance bus like Flixbus (though I personally find that too tiring for such long trips) or traveling by train. From Berlin, for example, there’s a direct train connection to Gdańsk that takes just 6 hours.

➜ Flights to Gdańsk are available from airlines such as Eurowings, Lufthansa, LOT, Wizz Air, and Ryanair

Where to stay in Gdansk

The city center of Gdansk isn’t that huge, and most of the sights are in the Main City or on the nearby island Wyspa Spichrzów. There you will also find accommodations for every budget.

➜ Check prices and availability here

06/03/2015
Bangkok: The Golden Buddha in Wat Traimit

You’ve probably seen them before: the magnificently decorated temples for which Bangkok is so famous. The Thai capital is home to over 400 Buddhist temples, many of which are absolute architectural masterpieces. Whether magnificent royal temples with golden towers or small hidden sanctuaries in quiet side streets: Each temple gives you fascinating insights into Buddhist culture and Thailand’s long history.

Bangkok and its impressive temples

The most famous temples such as Wat Phra Kaew with the Emerald Buddha, Wat Pho with the giant reclining Buddha or Wat Arun on the Chao Phraya should not be missed on any trip to Bangkok. But even lesser-known temples have their very own charm and are often less crowded.

Check out all the articles about Bangkok right here

A particular highlight is Wat Traimit with its legendary Golden Buddha. This temple may appear more inconspicuous from the outside than the large magnificent buildings, but inside it holds an absolutely unique treasure – the world’s largest solid gold statue of a seated Buddha.

Where to find the Golden Buddha in Bangkok

The Golden Buddha in Bangkok is housed in the Wat Traimit temple, which can easily be combined with a visit to nearby Chinatown. If you’re looking for a little exercise while sightseeing, there are a few steep steps to climb up to Wat Traimit. Once inside, you’ll find the stunning Golden Buddha, made entirely of pure gold, shimmering and gleaming beautifully.

The Golden Buddha in Bangkok: made entirely of gold!

Facts about the Golden Buddha at Wat Traimit in Bangkok

The Buddha is not only called the “Golden Buddha” – it is actually made almost entirely of gold! Weighing over 5 tons and worth around 250 million US dollars, it stands in the open, without any special safety precautions, in the small temple at the top of the building. Fascinating. Once more, your first impression might be right: first, Thais hold their religion in high regard, and second, theft is heavily disapproved of — making people feel much safer here compared to many other countries.

Important rules for visiting the temple

As in all temples, if you want to see the Golden Buddha up close at Wat Traimit, take off your shoes and cover your shoulders and knees. After all, temples are religious sites that should be respected. Even though the weather in Thailand often calls for light clothing, you should refrain from wearing shorts and tank tops when visiting temples.

You can find more inspiration for your trip in my
Thailand blog

However, in Wat Traimit – as in most temples popular with tourists – there is a small clothes stall with scarves and shawls, which you can help yourself to for a small donation. The stall is located right at the top of the temple.

Chinatown in Bangkok

From Wat Traimit you also have a great view of the gateway to Bangkok’s Chinatown, an exciting district that you should definitely visit in conjunction with the Golden Buddha.

Chinatown is one of Bangkok’s oldest and liveliest districts. The streets are lined with traditional stores, cookshops and gold stores, which are particularly lively and brightly lit in the evenings. Here you can sample authentic street food and get to know the life of Bangkok’s Chinese community.

Other temples worth seeing in Bangkok

If a Golden Buddha is not enough, perhaps a private temple tour through Bangkok is something for you! There you will not only visit the temples, but also get a lot of background information:

Book a tour of Bangkok’s most beautiful temples here*

In addition to Wat Traimit, there are many other impressive temples in Bangkok that you should not miss. Wat Pho is home to the famous reclining Buddha, which is one of the most impressive Buddha statues in the world, measuring 46 meters in length.

Wat Arun, also known as the Temple of Dawn, stands out with its striking prang (tower) on the banks of the Chao Phraya River and is a magical sight, especially at sunset.

03/02/2015
The Best Cooking Class in Chiang Mai, Thailand
At first I thought, hmm, a cooking class in Thailand… is that really necessary? It’s bound to be expensive and won’t be any fun anyway. Think again! Thai cuisine isn’t just delicious—it’s also easy to recreate at home. You just have to get used to the unfamiliar ingredients at first. And the best way to do that is in one of the many cooking schools. I chose a cooking class in Chiang Mai. In this post, I’ll tell you what it was like to cook Thai food properly for once.

➜ Click here to book your cooking class in Chiang Mai*

Why take a cooking course in Thailand?

Cooking courses are available on every corner in Thailand at reasonable prices. When you consider that you get to taste and eat everything and get a huge meal for the day, the cooking course in Chiang Mai is actually a bargain. And it’s fun too – at least I got a great group with whom the day flew by.

You will get to know the ingredients that you usually only see prepared and can later cook your favorite dish on your own at home: After the cooking course, galangal, lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves will no longer be foreign words to you!

Make your own fresh Thai curry paste

Who would have thought it was so easy to make your very own curry paste for your typical Thai curry? In the cooking class you will be shown the main ingredients and which ones to use for a red, yellow or green curry paste.

Put everything together in the mortar, grind well and enjoy the rising aroma! You can add more or less chili as you wish and voilà: Your homemade curry paste is ready. With just a few simple steps, you can conjure up a great ingredient for cooking real Thai curries.

➜ Recipe for a homemade curry paste

The most popular Thai dishes from Tom Kha Gai to Thai Curry

From Pad Thai to your own homemade curry: you can choose your favorite typical Thai dishes from a list. It is best to choose different ones in a group; then you can try them together. Super delicious and easy to recreate at home. We got a small recipe book for free with our cooking course in Chiang Mai.

Spring rolls are really easy once you get the hang of them.

Are you planning a trip to Thailand?
You can find more tips for this great country in Southeast Asia here

My very first Tom Kha Gai soup. A little pale – but soooo delicious!

Cooking course on a farm in Chiang Mai

My tip for a Thai cooking class in Chiang Mai: Some providers offer their cooking classes on farms outside the city center. The area around Chiang Mai is super green and very scenic! This way you get a bit out of the city and can enjoy the fresh country air. My course even included a ride on a local train.

➜ Book your cooking course on a farm near Chiang Mai here*

Country life in Thailand: During the lunch break of the cooking course, the surroundings are explored.

During the lunch break, we were able to borrow one of the (rickety, but numerous) bicycles and explore the area around the farm on our own. Real country life in Thailand! The area around Chiang Mai is very rural and offers a great contrast to the bustling city. So you can get to know a little more authentic Thailand at the same time.

What makes a good cooking course in Thailand?
The following is included in most cooking courses:
- A visit to the local market before the actual cooking: this way you will get to know all the important ingredients in their raw state and will be able tobuy themon your own nexttime, even if you don’t speak the language.
- All ingredients for cooking and simple drinks
- A 3- to 4-course menu – you can often choose one of several dishesto cook. It’s best to take different ones in a group, so everyone can have a go at each one.
- A small recipe book with all the recipes from the course. So you can also cook the dishes at home. You can also find many of the ingredients in Asian supermarkets here in Germany.
You can take a cooking course in many other cities in Thailand.
You can find a good cooking school on almost every corner.
➜ C ooking course Bangkok*
➜ Cooking course Phuket*
➜ Cooking course Krabi*

The best places to stay in Chiang Mai

You’ll be surprised by the selection: There are so many affordable yet stylish places to stay in Chiang Mai. I highly recommend the Heyha Guesthouse!

It is located a little away from the tourist center in a quieter residential area. But you can rent bicycles there and you’ll be in the old town in no time. The owners, a young Thai couple, are also super nice, helpful and very hospitable: you immediately feel at home.

Check prices and availability at Heyha Guesthouse
31/12/2014

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